drunkclever

Since I am in the process of createing my dream..

a 1st gen turbo

I just got mine a few weeks ago. I all ready bought the '85 13b engine.

simple yes and no anwsers are >>>ok<<<

1. Anyone make an exhaust turbo manifold, down pipe and stuff
2. How much boost can a stock 85 13B take
3. Should I rebuild with 3mm apex seals
4. What size turbo should I get, I don't want to sacrafise daily drivabilati
5. Will by brother get a 12 pak or a 24 of corona.humm (I all ready know the awnser)
6. What fuel pump, pressure regulator am I going to use
7. Should I wait to get the hang of down shifting before I get a new clutch (yeah.. i am learning to drive standard, finaly)
8. Should I make differnt treads for all these questions
9. Are there any other cables from another car that I can use for my ebreak?
10. Should I shut the machine off at 10 and walk around the factory for an hr...?

kiker14

iTrader: (1)

1. not me
2. I dont know, but a 13bt can probably take more.
3. again, not postive since I don't have a turbo, but I would guess if you can do it, then yes.
4. still don't know
5. 24 unless he's a wussie or real poor
6. whichever one you please
7. good God yes, learn to drive before ruining a perfectly good clutch
8. no
9. I don't know, but they are relatively cheap
10. sure, go for it.

sorry for being completly unhelpful. Do some more searching around the forum to find answers to your questions, the ::search:: feature is a great place to start.

hotty

1 - yes.. later 2nd gen fits i believe
2 - 6-8 psi on 92octane if intercooled (high comp rotors)
3 - that engine has 3mm stock I believe.
4 - S4 or S5 turbo will be good
5 - 48. gotta share right?
6 - 255lph inline pump, with an fmu regulator
7 - yes
8 - NO.
9 - no.
10 - no, dont walk. drive something.. like a forklift. and cut some donuts until the tires start to smoke. Better yet.. play forklift rodeo... you tie a 15,000lb test towing strap to the back of the forklift, get a friend to sit on a piece of cardboard.. and cut donuts on the forklift until he proceeds to damn near float or tear his shoulders out of the sockets.. in which case he will fly into some pallets and do bodily harm..
Disclaimer
I'm not responsible for anything that happens.

Daryl

drunkclever

Now I am thinking if the low comp rotors from a t2 would fit. I think I will just call someone

I still don;t freaking know what a s4 or s5 are, going to have to do some searches

he got me a 12 and a bottle of hpnotiq.

6 = thanks
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.
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10. I got caught!!! I was hideing on top of some rolls of paper in the roll house.. looking through my repair manuel.. the basered superviser took a fork truck and moved the whole tower(about 15ft) from the roll house to the main complex.. where he casualy said over the intercom.. "your going to have to take my mother-in-law on a date if you want to get down!!" I jumped.. now my ankels hurt like all hell.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

1. Not that I know of, IIRC you're gonna have to get an exhaust shop to custom make you one, unless you're using a TII motor, then RacingBeat can help.

2. Depends on its condition. If you've just rebuilt it with all new seals, it can probably take more than if it's just a running used core. You also have to keep in mind that higher compression engines are tricker to turbo because pressure builds up fast and you could end up with detonation and boost creep problems. You're going to need a good wastegate, intercooler and blow-off valve I'd say. I'm not big enough into turbos yet to know exactly, but personally I wouldn't run more than like 6psi until I knew all of that stuff.

3. Should you rebuild? Yes. With 3mm apex seals? Not necessary as far as I've heard. For the cost of machining the rotors to accept them, and the seals themselves, save your money. You'll need it for all the turbo accessories that you'll need. Not to mention the fact that you'll have to run high-octane gas after the turbo is on to resist detonation.

4. I don't know what size turbo you should get, but when turbo-ing an N/A 13b, my suggestion is to go smaller rather than bigger. Bigger = more money that needs to be spent making sure you don't blow your engine.

5. Why in God's name is he buying Corona? Don't you have any beer down there that isn't wussy? I guess that's just the canadian in me talking.

6. That I don't know. You'll probably need a rising-rate FPR, and a fuel-injection pump (if you're not already running FI... you said you picked up the 13b, which leads me to believe your car doesn't have one). You probably also have to think about if you're going FI or Carb. Carb is cheaper and easier, FI can potentially yield more tunability, drivability and fuel economy. Your call.

7. Absolutely. If it's an aftermarket clutch setup. For OEM, go ahead and replace it. It'll be a bit tight when you first replace it, but you'll be good. My main concern is that if you replace the clutch first then continue to learn how to drive it, you'll wear the new clutch out alot faster. I'd beat the **** out of your old one first.

8. Hell no. The main page is the only page most people read. It only contains 25 threads at a time. We don't want that many threads clogging up the place.

9. Nope. Around here I had to suck up my pride and get my e-brake "Y" cable from Mazda... costly, but worth it to have working e-brake.

10. Ummm... dunno.

Jon

13B4port

heres a useful link. http://www.turbofb.com i think it'll answere all your questions. WITH PICS!!! explaining how to modify the exhaust and intake. i've done this swap before. soooo heres a low down of the hard stuff. btw s4 =86-88 and s5 = 89-91
you'll need a lower intake from s4 or s5 and a upper intake from the same year.
the lower intake will need modified as the aux ports on the 6 port 13b don't match the 4 port turbo motors. it's easy to do with a dremil
the exhaust manifold is going to need minor modification as there is a chuck of the block in the way. this is real easy.
oil lines. drill a hole in the oil pain for the return line and use steel braided lines. for the high preasure line goto racingbeat.com and buy the oil filter adapter plate. use a line off the adapter plate for the high preasure line.

coolent lines. there are many ways to do this but the easiest i've found is there is a capped off hole in the water pump housing. drill it out and tread it. then use the line that runs along the passanger side of the vehicle for the heater core. use a t fillting.

as far as ignition goes. gsl-se have a vacum advance and mechanical advance. you can get a 12at dizzy (very hard to find) or you can go to summitracing.com and buy a MSD Boost retarding module. you can set it for 1 -3 degrees timing retard per psi of boost.

as far as fuel i recomend megasquirt if your savy with elertronics. other wise i recomend the wolf 3d system. you can also just go for the TII ECU but you will also need the coil packs for a TII and the Crank Angle senor among other things.

that just about covers it. for intake piping avoid using unprotected PVC piping. if you do use PVC go to any auto parts store and buy the ceramic spray paint and coat the outside of the PVC because.... as PVC gets hot it lets off toxic gases that are bad for you and bad for your engine. this is why they use copper piping in housing for hot water.

hope this helps. feel free to pry my brain more.

DAVID GRIMES

or if there are two forklifts, you get one and a buddy ( or the "basered" supervisor maybe ? ) gets the other. Each of you have a stalk of conduit and you have FORKLIFT JOISTING ! First one to get knocked off has to screw the basereds mother-in-law.

drunkclever

great information, thanks for your help. It seems I am going to be on this project for over a year(the way i work.. slow)

s4 and s5 have 2 intakes? Or what you wanted to say was an intake and exhaust? I am savvy with the infamous dremil I think I will start my parts collecting with the intakes and exhaust, also the turbo. After that I am going to look into getting a tap and lines for the oil and turbo.I wonder if morosso makes a high capacity oil pan for the 13B. Then see if I can find the pipeing for a FMIC. I guess getting that retard would be a good investment.

While rebuilding the engine could I throw in a pair of T2 rotors? Or anyone know if the stock rotors can be milled to be low compression? Makeing them low compression would seem less expensive. At this point all I can achive is inspiration. I get my engine and tires on monday after that more solid plans should apprear.

Thanks for everyones input, any more ideas?