Qarb Cwestsh'ns.
12-02-04, 03:26 AM
#126
I now have two #80 e-tubes with the same number and location of holes as my 60 and 90 tubes. I can try them in my carb without having to adjust the floats, right? I'll double check radii of the throttle brackets before I go much further.
Z bend, as in the fast idle rod? I'm working with a '73 carb that is rather different in some ways, and quite similar in other ways to SA and FB carbs. The fast idle linkage is different and the rod is missing so I'm attempting to swap the rod etc from my damaged SA carb instead of trying to come up with a new rod in a smaller guage wire. It seemed easier, anyway. Besides, the '73 carb has a weird cruise control type thing on the linkage that would be best if removed. I also want to try to align the throttle cable with the SA bracket a little better.
Sterling, the AP rod on this carb doesn't even have an adjustment nut! It's got a cotter pin and a couple washers. The lever is also different. I'm going to see if the SA lever etc can be swapped over. The diaphram still works, thanks to the way the OMP fed the old style carbs (through the float bowls, causing a thin film of protective oil). This carb is also waterdamage, and yet the only things affected are the butterflies, and they both open and close fine; it appears to just be a stain. Heh, the vacuum secondary diaphram feels very stiff. Time for mech secs? All other gaskets I've seen on this carb appear to be fine. The AP diaphram even feels healthy. The only down side to this carb is the secondary e-tubes sharing a thread size with the primaries meaning I can't simply swap out the ancient tubes (with a single hole at the bottom) for some later ones.
Z bend, as in the fast idle rod? I'm working with a '73 carb that is rather different in some ways, and quite similar in other ways to SA and FB carbs. The fast idle linkage is different and the rod is missing so I'm attempting to swap the rod etc from my damaged SA carb instead of trying to come up with a new rod in a smaller guage wire. It seemed easier, anyway. Besides, the '73 carb has a weird cruise control type thing on the linkage that would be best if removed. I also want to try to align the throttle cable with the SA bracket a little better.
Sterling, the AP rod on this carb doesn't even have an adjustment nut! It's got a cotter pin and a couple washers. The lever is also different. I'm going to see if the SA lever etc can be swapped over. The diaphram still works, thanks to the way the OMP fed the old style carbs (through the float bowls, causing a thin film of protective oil). This carb is also waterdamage, and yet the only things affected are the butterflies, and they both open and close fine; it appears to just be a stain. Heh, the vacuum secondary diaphram feels very stiff. Time for mech secs? All other gaskets I've seen on this carb appear to be fine. The AP diaphram even feels healthy. The only down side to this carb is the secondary e-tubes sharing a thread size with the primaries meaning I can't simply swap out the ancient tubes (with a single hole at the bottom) for some later ones.
Last edited by Jeff20B; 12-02-04 at 03:32 AM.
12-04-04, 08:54 AM
#127
whipmebeatmewankelmeoff
just wanted to let you know the final jetting on my hitachi rx4 carb turned out to be 108 primary and 160 secondary works REALLY good. If your still interested in trying one.
12-07-04, 11:44 AM
#129
whipmebeatmewankelmeoff
all the orignal air bleeds (don't remember the sizes) and it's a street primary bridge secondary 12A with long primary exhaust. I'm also running mechanical secondaries on it and that combo doesn't give any stumble on the secondary tip-in. And it pulls like a bitch starting at 5000 on the secondaries.
12-07-04, 02:15 PM
#131
Airflow is my life
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Speaking of seperating the throttle body, er I'll get to that. Here is yet another water damaged carb. There are so many around here that I've lost count. It came off of a Pineapple Racing engine with nice ports and carbon apex seals. Let this be a lesson to never leave an engine out in the rain that has an air cleaner lid with a wingnut in the middle. I think this engine sat for like two years with water in it. Oh well.
I'm sure Carl will appreciate the port job on the manifold. What's it good for? Say, 5-9k or something? Pretty cool!
Since some of you still have small monitors and/or low resolution settings and would otherwise be forced to side-scroll, I'll only post the pictures as thumbnails. You can click on them if you want. They'll be at whichever resolution (size) that best shows the subject.
I'm sure Carl will appreciate the port job on the manifold. What's it good for? Say, 5-9k or something? Pretty cool!
Since some of you still have small monitors and/or low resolution settings and would otherwise be forced to side-scroll, I'll only post the pictures as thumbnails. You can click on them if you want. They'll be at whichever resolution (size) that best shows the subject.
12-08-04, 03:00 AM
#132
That's interesting, numan2. I may try that combination some day. Thanks for the info.
Carl, manifiold #2 has only been hogged out at the top. The tops of the runners are bigger and further apart than the barrels of the carb. I thought porting a manifold this way was bad. Even the nicely ported (pineapple) manifold's outer edges still match the distance between the carb's primary and secondary barrels. How poorly do you think manifold #2 will flow?
Carl, manifiold #2 has only been hogged out at the top. The tops of the runners are bigger and further apart than the barrels of the carb. I thought porting a manifold this way was bad. Even the nicely ported (pineapple) manifold's outer edges still match the distance between the carb's primary and secondary barrels. How poorly do you think manifold #2 will flow?
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Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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