Put in new CP Racing strut bar
Thread Starter
What?
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,833
Likes: 1
From: CT
Put in new CP Racing strut bar
I just got my CP Racing srut bar. It looks awesome. I have to tell dollar for dollar its a great deal. Even if it just dresses up the engine bay it was worth it. Took a while to ship, but that was during the holidays. i have to wait till spring to really push the 7.
John
John
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,584
Likes: 542
From: Phoenix, AZ
The 2nd week that I had my RB strut tower brace in place, I blew out one of my upper strut mounting blocks!
That is a testament to how much stiffer the front suspension will be when you add a strut tower brace. In effect, this takes out all the play that would normally be there to absorb the up and down (which translates to in-and-out) motion of the struts as they move against the resistance of the road. Once you remove this flex, it forces the upper 'pillows' on the strut mounts to take all of the force, and mine had already had 160k miles on them in the Arizona heat.
The rubber donut that locates the strut top broke through and punched the top of the strut rod up against the underside of the hood, popping a small ding visible to the front. This got fixed when I repainted the car, but it was annoying to know that it popped the whole assembly off due to structural stress.
You might want to inspect the rest of your front suspension to be sure that everything else is up to the task. The next weakest link is likely to now that you've beefed up your strut towers;
1. Control arm inner joints and ball joints
2. Tension rod bushings
3. Stabilizer bar bushings and end links
4. Upper strut mounts (as I mentioned)
5. Tie rods and idler arm bushings
If any of these are crumbly rubber, you may be well served to replace them at your earliest convenience. HTH,
That is a testament to how much stiffer the front suspension will be when you add a strut tower brace. In effect, this takes out all the play that would normally be there to absorb the up and down (which translates to in-and-out) motion of the struts as they move against the resistance of the road. Once you remove this flex, it forces the upper 'pillows' on the strut mounts to take all of the force, and mine had already had 160k miles on them in the Arizona heat.
The rubber donut that locates the strut top broke through and punched the top of the strut rod up against the underside of the hood, popping a small ding visible to the front. This got fixed when I repainted the car, but it was annoying to know that it popped the whole assembly off due to structural stress.
You might want to inspect the rest of your front suspension to be sure that everything else is up to the task. The next weakest link is likely to now that you've beefed up your strut towers;
1. Control arm inner joints and ball joints
2. Tension rod bushings
3. Stabilizer bar bushings and end links
4. Upper strut mounts (as I mentioned)
5. Tie rods and idler arm bushings
If any of these are crumbly rubber, you may be well served to replace them at your earliest convenience. HTH,
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,584
Likes: 542
From: Phoenix, AZ
Since we're talking about engine bays and strut tower braces... MrGSLSE - I took some engine bay pics the other day but haven't added them to my signature line, yet.
I do plan to do so, however.
(Be sure to go back to the thread where you asked about rewiring your Fusible Links - I think you need to review what you've done - revive that thread and I'll talk to you more - don't want to jack this one...)
I do plan to do so, however.
(Be sure to go back to the thread where you asked about rewiring your Fusible Links - I think you need to review what you've done - revive that thread and I'll talk to you more - don't want to jack this one...)
