Got the lower intake manifold bolted up to the car yesterday along with heatshield. I'm going to do the wiring for the new pump now and should hopefully have it in monday if the weather holds up. I really hope that by tuesday I can be tuning again.

Time to update my big thread :), bosch 044 pump is now in and running well at 55psi for now, will drop the pressure later once I get the secondary injectors working properly.

Also suspension is FINALLY in, the front end took me longer than needed and more hand cuts than required. I still need to go for an alignment and what not to get it fully done, but that'll come later on next week.

I opted out for the 325 front and 175 rear for springs rate, and also the back shocks are set on setting number 4 and the front one is on setting number 3 on the driver side and 4 on the passenger side. If you're asking why one is set on 4 and the other side on 3 that answer can be found here:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/shock-comparison-shock-dyno-900459/page2/

I'll try to post up some pictures once I get a chance.

didn’t read every post but I did look at all the pics :D and I’ve got a couple of questions. first of all I noticed your running the 2g trailing coil and was wondering if you noticed any difference over stock. I was thinking about going with the 2g trailing cuz I wanna use 10mm FD wires and don’t wanna have to find a 10mm wire to go from the stock coil to dizzy but people keep saying just to drop the trailing all together but my car already smells like gas and I think that’ll make it worse. second I was wondering if you had a right up on how you did your battery relocation and more importantly all the relays and fuses and what they’re to and how its all wired. BTW sweet ride!

Well the trailing and leading from the second gen do make quite a bit of a difference. Also besides just taking care of exhaust the trailing do actually make quite a bit of power. Playing around with trailing split, has boosted me more than one or two ponies. Also you have to keep in mind that I'm running a standalone system that controls them, I'm not too sure how just controlling them with the dizzy works exactly. Why don't you just buy DIY kits for 10mm core wire though?

As for the battery relocation, I do not have a write up as per say but its actually pretty simple. I made the box, which mounts on the cross member, then there's a 2 gauge wire from the positive terminal to the starter, a 4 gauge from the positive terminal to the main fuse box holder in the engine bay, and for ground I have a 0 gauge from the chassis to the battery, and a 4 gauge from the battery to the engine.

The relays and fuse block on the side of the battery are for:

Fuel Pump
Carputer
Megasquirt
Windows (when I get a chance to wire that in)

Yeah I tried a diy 10mm wire kit but the spark plug wire crimper I bought didn't do very well with the huge wires.