Removed Emissions Problems

After removing the emissions i have had problems with idling, well rather ive had problems with idling after i got the stupid secondary butterflys to open. So lets say that i dont have any vaccum leaks because ive went over this a million times. Now in the instructions it tells you to conect a couple vaccum lines to a sensor of some sort.

"Notice the locations of the hoses we have now run. Reconnect the saved solenoid to the white plug. Hook the saved hose up to the top of the solenoid to the throttle opener (Note the two different sizes to the hose ends). Run a vacuum line from the first vacuum opening to this solenoid. You can see here that we T’ed this line just next to the solenoid. the other hose going upwards runs to the cruise control."

Now if i didnt actually do this correctly, or at all...would it **** up the operation of the carb? Even if i dont have cruise control?

What would happen if on the Pass side, where the two hoses are, were plugged due to a broken sensor?

Secondary Problems: where exactly is the pod for the secondaries, how do they work on this car? Vaccum activated? I noticed that i get fuel going into the secondarys when the car is just being turned over.

Carb Vent Problems: I noticed that the wire was missing to the vent on the drivers side, after reconecting it "hotwiring it" that the car ran much better, even when i did hook it up, i did notice that if played with the emissions harness that i could here it clicking on and off like there was a short, it was actually in one of the plugs. So what should i do? Just re connect where the short is with some male to female connectors?

No oil pressure: i have some wires that are just dangling and im sure they go somewhere, example :oil pressure sensor. Where does that wire plug into, the bottom of the oil cooler thinger, where the oil filter screws into?

If i can get any help it would be much appritiated. Dont make me sell this thing for another crx.

 

Maybe this will help with the emmissions question, i checked out my carb and its obviously a older carb without as much emmissions. Which is a good thing. 81? 81 gsl? Aynways, heres the difference. Btw, after i drew up the first picture, i noticed that this would be very usefull to someone trying to do the emissions swap. Tell me if you notice anything wrong.

My current setup



My 81 setup, not installed right now


where do you guys source your carb gaskets?

 

bump

 

usless forum

 

Sorry man, but I was out of town. Start with the fuel bowl vent solenoid and get that working correctly. If you think that there may be a short somewhere, then you'll need to track it down or rewire it altogether. Nothing will work right until you get that corrected. I can't see your pics from work right now, so I can't comment on any of that...

 

Do a search, I had the same problems a few months back. The bowl vent needs to be "vented" do not cap it off. That was one of my problems. As long as you have the "richer" sol working and everything else capped off you should be fine. Also getting the crank case vac setup is sometimes a problem. IF it's working proerly with the engine runnign you should be able to unscrew the oil cap and lift it slightly it should want to suck teh oil cap back down from the eng vac in the crank case.

Sift through these links....hopefully one helps, if not post back.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=removal
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=removal
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=removal

 

that last picture helps alot. I have the wierd carb tho, the one without so much emmissions from the gsl in 81. Im sure it will still work fine. MY oil cap is actualy cracked....would that effect any vaccum?

 

Yup... And you want a strong vac on the filler neck other wise it will collect moisture and rust out. Thats what mine was doing. Use some JB weld or fibre glass to repair it until U can get a new one.

Like I was saying as long as you can confirm power to the richer SOL. To make sure the SOL is working make up a few jumper wires and hit it with power and ground. You should hear the SOl clicking. (engine off)

If there are no vac leaks U should be golden. U can also try buying a can of quick start and spraying it around the base of the carb and all the vac ports. If theres a leak your idle wil go up from the engine sucking down the ether. Possible you could have a leak at the intake or carb as well. Although if things were working fine before emissions removal that usually not the case. Hose down anywhere that could possibly have a leak.

Eliminate the cruise control and the vac hose going to the white AC SOL for now. Just block them off so you don't have to worrie about it.

Look at the first ic I posted #8 is the diaphram that controls the secondaries. There is no "port" it has 2 screws that screw it onto the port and it's an internal vac source. Spray aroud there too to check for leaks.



Oil pressure sending unit is down and on the right side of the filler neck. Should be a somewhat large electric sending unit there with ne wire on it.

Secondarys or primarys should not leak fuel when car is off. Thats what my car did when I had the vac port (circled in second pic i posted) plugged.

Good luck! I gotta run to work now.

 

i didnt realize that the stupid wire connector just slid onto the end of that oil pressure sending unit. Stupid me...but anyways, i got that fixed. As well as i took the wiring harness and removed almost the entire emissions, just left what i had to have so that everything would work fine.

Yeah when i didnt have that wire plugged in, the car would shoot gas into the secondaries like i said, it doesnt do that now either. I had a look at what i have to do for the crankcase vent and i totally understand now, i just need to pick up a little larger hose and some larger T fittings.

I was f'n around with different kinds of vaccum line, experimenting, trying to find a hose that i liked but i just said f* it and went back to the oem style because its durable, thick, and creates the best vaccum. And in my mind, its not how it looks, its how it runs. function over form right? Anyways what i was trying to get to, was that i redid the vaccum advance tubing with some original stuff because the other stuff was just too loose on the vaccum ports and they were sorta falling off.

Right now i just have the crankcase hoses plugged so i can start up the car and drive it around the yard for moving purposes until this friday when i get my new rear pinion flange, new u joint, vac lines ect....its my birthday so im spoiling myself. Other than that, all i need to get this car back to mint is some fresh tires and a passenger side steerting rack bushing?

 

haha heres a new one, dont plug in the green connecter into the alt instead of the white one...basically what happends is you lose all control over shutting off the engine with the key...believe it or not. Meanwhile i was trying to get the car to die while its idleing at 5000rpms because the throttle was tightened too much. Then i had to pull ALL 4 wires to get it to shut off! all 4! For **** sakes...what kinda **** is that...I got shocked like a million times. What can ya do? Just got shocked...no big loss.

 

So anyways, druing my little accident i ended up ******* the rotor and cap over to a good extent...one of the pinds for the T ignition on the second cylider went Pew, shot out, lost forever. Car still runs fine tho. haha...

car does tonnes of power now tho after i redid the vaccum system and no funny jumping idle, still doesnt idle low tho, just at 1400 rpms. But its nice there, with quiet exhaust i wouldnt be able to hear it barely.

So i went over the vaccum system and found that two hoses were cut almost right through on the back of the car...geze...i think this is what helped.