1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 03:27 PM
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wheres the water goin?
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From: Nor Cal
Problems BIG PROBLEMS

well last night my SE started to overheat as said in this thread the last entry that i put on it https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/update-overheating-499219/. later after i got her home i tried to start her up but no dice. so i went back out there and i deflooded the eng there was alot of fuel in there and what else did i see this green stuff, yup coolant ***. and now i cant get her started at all she keeps flooding. i must have deflooded at least 5 or 6 times. she wont start and its starting to **** me off i know that im going to need a rebuilt but i would like to get her started so that i can try the block weld trick on the water seals. does anyone have any ideas to help out pls?
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 07:04 PM
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From: St Joe MO
If you haven't cleaned the plugs well enough, or replaced them, it won't have enough spark to fire.
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 08:38 PM
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wheres the water goin?
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i ll go and get a wire wheel from wally world and try it again. does anyone know where i can get a soft seal kit cheap so i can do a quick rebuild she still has damn good compression from the sounds of her.
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 09:15 PM
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Dont bother trying to clean your plugs. Replace them.
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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hmmmm....sounds like you blew a water seal good enough that you might not be able to get her to start at all...but definately just change the plugs like mentioned...cleaning isnt worth it...if you REALLY want to get it started...pull start it...

sorry to hear about your bad luck...anywho....its pretty damned near impossible to find a soft seal kit "cheap" anymore...'specially for an -se man...

-brenden
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 11:04 PM
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wheres the water goin?
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yeah i think i found one for 16 bucks i just emailed them to find out if its a typo or not but if its not im going to jump on it with a quickkness

edit: and while its apart i think im going to do a lil bit of porting on her too
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 12:23 AM
  #7  
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If you overheated the engine, there is a possibility that you warped one of the housings. I really can't see how you could blow out a coolant seal. Its basically a large O ring that seats into a grove on the end plates. They are wedged in there pretty good. I'd be willing to bet that you warped either the front, intermediate, or rear plate. If this is the case, you'll have to buy another plate, which could be hard to find for an SE engine.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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wheres the water goin?
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From: Nor Cal
Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
If you overheated the engine, there is a possibility that you warped one of the housings. I really can't see how you could blow out a coolant seal. Its basically a large O ring that seats into a grove on the end plates. They are wedged in there pretty good. I'd be willing to bet that you warped either the front, intermediate, or rear plate. If this is the case, you'll have to buy another plate, which could be hard to find for an SE engine.

its just the front rotor housing the had coolant in it. i guess i would have to tear it down to find out whats warped i could call atlantarx7 and see if he's got what i need and go from there. or just order a new engine from rx7world.com and go from there also
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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wheres the water goin?
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is ther a way to tell weather or not the housing is warped or if its a seal. the heat on the car bearly got up to 3/4 mark so any help would be greatly thanked
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:57 PM
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From: Colfax, Washington
Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
If you overheated the engine, there is a possibility that you warped one of the housings. I really can't see how you could blow out a coolant seal. Its basically a large O ring that seats into a grove on the end plates. They are wedged in there pretty good. I'd be willing to bet that you warped either the front, intermediate, or rear plate. If this is the case, you'll have to buy another plate, which could be hard to find for an SE engine.
^please disregard this comment....dude....think about this....o-ring made of rubber vs tempered cast iron...last time i checked...the cast iron can take heat MUCH better than a rubber water seal...it is VERY easy to blow a coolant/water seal when you overheat a rotary engine...ok...first....you have water/coolant at over 200 degrees going against the o-ring when your 7 overheats...this (according to fluid dynamics) means that you also have more pressure against these weaks points in a rotary engine...there4...blowing a coolant seal is not a hard thing to do in comparison to warping a ****** housing...

-brenden

(not meaning to bash...just dont want this guy misinformed)
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 06:40 PM
  #11  
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wheres the water goin?
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From: Nor Cal
Originally Posted by bkm_rx7
^please disregard this comment....dude....think about this....o-ring made of rubber vs tempered cast iron...last time i checked...the cast iron can take heat MUCH better than a rubber water seal...it is VERY easy to blow a coolant/water seal when you overheat a rotary engine...ok...first....you have water/coolant at over 200 degrees going against the o-ring when your 7 overheats...this (according to fluid dynamics) means that you also have more pressure against these weaks points in a rotary engine...there4...blowing a coolant seal is not a hard thing to do in comparison to warping a ****** housing...

-brenden

(not meaning to bash...just dont want this guy misinformed)

thats what i was thinkin too. i heard that you can blow a seal and i also heard the that you can warp too but i dont see how that i can the housing or a plate if i didnt get the eng up past 200 degrees. i dont know. im going to try the block weld trick and see if that works and if not i try a rebuild.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 09:18 PM
  #12  
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From: Bognor, Ontario
Originally Posted by bkm_rx7
^please disregard this comment....dude....think about this....o-ring made of rubber vs tempered cast iron...last time i checked...the cast iron can take heat MUCH better than a rubber water seal...it is VERY easy to blow a coolant/water seal when you overheat a rotary engine...ok...first....you have water/coolant at over 200 degrees going against the o-ring when your 7 overheats...this (according to fluid dynamics) means that you also have more pressure against these weaks points in a rotary engine...there4...blowing a coolant seal is not a hard thing to do in comparison to warping a ****** housing...

-brenden

(not meaning to bash...just dont want this guy misinformed)
This may be true, but its also a good idea to put out the fact that he could have a warped housing. Mabey its just me, but after seeing how the o-rings are designed, I would think that the housing would have to warp before the seal would blow out. The inner seal is lined on both sides of the grove with a steel ring, then the o-ring in the center. You are probably right, and I probably shouldn't have stated that as if I knew from experience, as I don't know. Sorry for any wrong information.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 03:50 PM
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From: Colfax, Washington
^hey...its all good...but ive torn down plenty of engines and know that the o-rings are usually pathetically weak if still in tact...but usually the first cause is gonna be the o-ring

-brenden
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