Pix - 2 Weeks of engine bay overhaul
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Pix - 2 Weeks of engine bay overhaul
Tried to post this Friday, then Saturday, now its here
Ok, So after 2 weeks or working on the 7 here are the pix....... Even though its not done, and dirty..
__________Engine Bay_____________
Before - decent, but not good enough.....
During - Engines create so much cluter....
After - mmm..... pretty
Highlights - Polished stainless steel heat shield over lower intake manifold, cover infront
of radiator, powercoated alumiumn cold air box and rad brackets.
Highlights - Removed crap from intake plenum, emissions junk, powder coated engine bracket
polished intake plenum, upper manifold, TB, AFM....
More engine bay pix can be seen at http://max7.rx-7.org/projects/Engine-Bay/
Ok, So after 2 weeks or working on the 7 here are the pix....... Even though its not done, and dirty..
__________Engine Bay_____________
Before - decent, but not good enough.....
During - Engines create so much cluter....
After - mmm..... pretty
Highlights - Polished stainless steel heat shield over lower intake manifold, cover infront
of radiator, powercoated alumiumn cold air box and rad brackets.
Highlights - Removed crap from intake plenum, emissions junk, powder coated engine bracket
polished intake plenum, upper manifold, TB, AFM....
More engine bay pix can be seen at http://max7.rx-7.org/projects/Engine-Bay/
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___________Wiring_________________
Old fuse block out, 2nd Gen in.....
Make sure you label everything so you know where it all goes.
Made a nice little bracket to mount back to the factory spot.
Got a pair of 4gauge going forward, 1 to fuse block, other to Alt, the 2ga goes to the Batt.
Old fuse block out, 2nd Gen in.....
Make sure you label everything so you know where it all goes.
Made a nice little bracket to mount back to the factory spot.
Got a pair of 4gauge going forward, 1 to fuse block, other to Alt, the 2ga goes to the Batt.
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____________Interior______________
Time to update the gauges to White Faced
A little cutting to get them to fit in, no biggy.
Wiring up the new gauges....
Theres alot of wires in there!
Painted the parts Gunmetal, cluster surround, center console, shifter area....
Time to update the gauges to White Faced
A little cutting to get them to fit in, no biggy.
Wiring up the new gauges....
Theres alot of wires in there!
Painted the parts Gunmetal, cluster surround, center console, shifter area....
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____________More Interior____________
My new harness bar
I figured overkill was a good thing on a harness bar.
More interior pix can be seen at http://max7.rx-7.org/projects/Interior/
My new harness bar
I figured overkill was a good thing on a harness bar.
More interior pix can be seen at http://max7.rx-7.org/projects/Interior/
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#8
Airflow is my life
Really nice job! Only 2 weeks huh? Makes me wanna clean up my crappy DD.
Did you make that harness bar? And may I ask why your using that if you have a roll cage? Why not use the cage bars?
Did you make that harness bar? And may I ask why your using that if you have a roll cage? Why not use the cage bars?
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Really nice......
Very intrested in your harness bar..... I like the angle your belts will pull vs. being attached to the roll cage. But would not recommend the harness bar for any other than street or Autox. With a cage in the car, I want to be part of the cage since it won't flex much in accident.
Post more info on your harness bar....
John
Very intrested in your harness bar..... I like the angle your belts will pull vs. being attached to the roll cage. But would not recommend the harness bar for any other than street or Autox. With a cage in the car, I want to be part of the cage since it won't flex much in accident.
Post more info on your harness bar....
John
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I didn't like how close or low the mounting points were on the cage, I was going to add a bar to the bars going down to the inner fenders but thought this might be another option.
Its made from 2 1/8" dia - 3/16" wall tube, the end pieces are 7 ga steel. It also bolts to the floor with 2 bolts thru the plates welded to the legs.
Its made from 2 1/8" dia - 3/16" wall tube, the end pieces are 7 ga steel. It also bolts to the floor with 2 bolts thru the plates welded to the legs.
#11
Airflow is my life
Actually for road racing or any high speed racing its preferable to have the belts as short as possible (less stretch in a sudden stop). Also you want to keep the angle where the belts go from the seat on back to the rear mount as horizontal as possible (less spine compression druing a wreck). Also like John said, its best to mount everything the same (all to the cage, or all to the body. This goes for the harness/belts, and the seat(s) ). Preferably to the cage cause it will flex less in an accident. What Ive read states this for a good reason. In a high speed accident if the seats mounted to the floor and the belts are not, then the belts could go slack as the cage and floorpan wont always do the same thing or twist the same amount and in the same direction, possibly leading to bad ****. Just an FYI for you guys. For the street and/or Autox, your belt setup is very good, and much safer than a stock 20 year old 3 point belt.
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