jonvo4591

i didn't take any pics of the install and process, but here is my finished product.

3 gm HEI ignitors, on a custom hacked piece of sheet metal where the coils used to be, the coils are now hose clamped to a bolt on the strut tower. the one where the fusible links were. the leading ignition sparks amazingly well, but i was having problems with my trailing, but hopefully that was due to a bad ignition switch (we'll find out next week)
although it seems wierd that the leading would be okay, i dunno, maybe something with my pretty wiring job. hey, as long as it works. and the new part works.

just thought i'd throw this out there, feel free to comment if you like.

EDIT: i pulled power off of the power wire originally for the leading coil, and used it for all the other coils, might there be a problem with this, or will i be alright?

i have yet to get the car running. as you can see in my sig.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

That is a lot of wiring! Nice job though, I am interested in the GM HEI ignitors. How did you go about wiring them up?

jonvo4591

it went fairly quickly, and i used this diagram. i forget where i found it, i think i was searching on google.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

That is the Tulsa turbo guy's diagram he made using my original as a guide.

Good job on your DLIDFIS install. You might want to consider adding a relay. It may solve the trailing bug.

jonvo4591

alright, i might try a relay, but i just wanted to see it working first, i'll probably eventually clean up the wiring and stuff and make everything a little more pretty.

thanks for the input.

jonvo4591

what kind of relay do i need to get, and where do i get it from?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

automotive relay from parts house like bosch etc etc

TheRX7Project

iTrader: (3)

You're saying add a relay as in a N/O relay that closes when the ignition is turned on, and the switched side is direct from batt to the (+) sides of the coils, correct?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, Bosch works. Also the ones from Radio Shack are good; I only had one bad one from them. I saw a Bueller yesterday on Z-Beater's car.

The four terminal type is all you need. The 30/51 terminal and 85, 86 and 87. I can't recall which number does what but yes from batt, through relay, to B on ignitors and + on coils. Switched by igniton in ON and START positions.

jonvo4591

i pull the power off the relay and bring it to all three ignitors and the coils?

i actually think i have a relay sitting in my barn from when i tore apart my firebird interior. it was part of a stereo system i think, and it has five terminals. i think i can just leave the middle one alone. i'll go check it out soon. when i get my ign. switch, then i can play around with all sorts of stuff

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, all three need power, right?

Yeah, the middle terminal is not used on this application.

jonvo4591

yeah, i guess you are right. they all do need power

i'll play around with that if i remember next week.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

You need a relay for DLIDFIS? Or am I thinking of 2GDFABCDEFG?

jonvo4591

a relay helps get more adequate power to the components, while not torturing the stock 25 year old wires.

TheRX7Project

iTrader: (3)

I'm considering doing this on my trailing when I do my MSD.

jonvo4591

ok, i am waiting on some plugs wires cap and rotor right now. i wired up my relay, and it works, i also used some heavier gauge wire than what the picture shows for the power feeds to the coils. when i get my tune up parts, i will put it together and try and start it up. i bought some seafoam at autozone the other day, so i will see if that will make it start up and run good. just waiting.

jonvo4591

got all my tuneup parts but the rotor. new plugs, wires, and cap.

i also added a relay, and it works like a charm. once i get it running i will go through and probably solder everything like it should be.

i have one question regarding the distributor and the ignitors. on the dizzy, which plug is for the leading ignitor? i have switched them around to get the timing marks on the pulley right, but i am not sure...

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

The trailing ignitor plug should be blue. The trailing ignitor is the one closest to the alt.

The other way to verify is to look at the wire colors. The trailing will have a yellow wire w/ green stripe. The leading will have yellow w/ blue stripe.

jonvo4591

thanks for the info, and thanks for moving this thread it is going kinda down the technical road now.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

hows it running?

i think this should be last option if you cant get your hands on j109 igniters

good install i had done this before but i had other issues and never really tested it

mperformance

Looks like a great setup except for the exposed wires, try to use electrical tape on them and loom it, it's kind of close to a direct fire system like the FCs and FDs except for trailings. But...

...I hate to say this to you but why go thru all this trouble? I have yet to find the stock 1st gen ignition system inadecuate for an NA setup specially if its under 200hp.

Now you got less engine space, more wires to deal with and no extra HP nor reliability improvements done.

feel free to respond Im not bashing your setup which I know a lot of write ups have been done on, I want to hear a good argument as to why do this.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

The GM HEI ignitors (DLIDFIS or not) have 2 big advantages:

1. availability - they are stocked in any autoparts store
2. cost - they are less than $20 new, while Mazda ones are close to 10x more. Currently, the Mazda units can be found used for a good price, but that will eventually dry up.

mperformance

Regarding the HEI ignitors
GM HEI ignitors are cheaper thats for sure. But consider you need 3 off the bat with that mod.

I doubt the stock ignitors will dry up soon, you can buy a complete dizzy in most junkyards...
The ignitors on a 12a seldom go bad. I've personally only seen about 2 go bad. 1 because wiring shorted out, the other one prob got wet.

was this done because jonvo did not source a Dizzy with good ignitors? maybe Im not sure. Usually forum members have spares to sell too, like at $5 a pop.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I agree that the stock units generally last a long time, but I have had a couple fail in the 13 years that I have had this 7 (not due to wiring or water). I know that many 7 owners stock pile J-109s because you never know when one might go out (could leave you stranded), they are expensive new, and you might not get lucky at the wreckers (most wreckers that I have been like to keep the dizzy and ignitors to sell with the engine). Also, I believe the going rate for used J-109s is about $20 these days..but it varies quite a bit.

Well, let's not turn this into a debate. The thread isn't about what ignition system is better. It is about trying to get Jon's 7 running.

Jon: Any luck?

jonvo4591

i have had some luck,

and i have had it running. it will run now, and hold idle by itself, but i think there is something messed up with the timing.

in my other thread, i talked about the pulley possibly being 90 degrees off, so i was gonna check that first of all by seeing if i could get to the access plate on the side of the engine. and finding my TDC. then line everything up according to that.

i didn't do anything to it yesterday, because i made yesterday a guitars day. i went to guitar center with my buddy, and then we jammed the rest of the day.

if it doesn't rain too bad tonight, i will go mess around with some stuff and see if i can get the timing right.

as for why i did this, main reason number one: i wanted to see if i could do it, and see if it worked. i like to do things myself, and since my ignitor blew, i figured, why not, let's just make it a little bit better.

now i can say,"i made that mess of wires and coils under my hood and it works."

and once i get everything sorted out, and running good, i will tape everything up, and solder all connections and make things more permanant, and finished looking.

if i can get to it tonight, and figure anything out, i will report back to you guys with anything i find.