this is not covered in the FSM, chilton's, nor haynes. nothing comes up in search of titles on this site.

The cover over one of the parking brake cables is severly rusted. So I effortlessly ordered the left and right cables from RockAuto.com

What kind of can of snakes am I getting into? I know the drive shaft has to be removed. How hard is it to get to the interior parking brake cable and the two exterior cables connection? Should I run a wire so I can pull the interior cable back into the cabin? Are the cables hell with cotter pins? Will I have to remove the heat shields too>

I know that I have to jack the car way up and put a car ramp and wooden blocks under the trans axle.

This will get very complicated very quickly!

 

I don't remember the interior connection to the parking / emergency brake handle but that can only mean it should be fairly easy. The connections underneath are usually severly rusted but if you're going new that shouldn't be a problem unless they do not supply you with the hardware as well as the cables. And hooking up back to the brakes is the same as it came off in reverse, which should be rather easy if underneath is still all loose. I believe there's a 10mm bolt w a bracket that in the end will make everything tight when you put it back to it's proper place / route.

 

just finished! on my car 1983 fb gs it involved removing the fuel pump bracket, undoing a cotter pin, undoing a clip that is the same on brake lines, removing the drum brakes, pulling the thing out.

replacement was reverse order.

hardest thing was jacking the car up high enough to put a car ramp with some boards to get enough height, under the transaxle.....and having redundant jack stands under the rear axle.....and thne lowering the car with out it falling on me ............when I was finished.


RockAuto sent me the wrong part for the right side. Left side was an exact fit.

 

now the exhaust pipe connecting the cat to the muffler has rusted holes in it!!

none of the vendors sell this pipe, they say go to a muffler shop for fabrication. the bar at the front of the pipe doesn't look like it would be easy to replicate. and since my car is so old, I've had all kinds of headaches with "professional mechanics" doing half *** work. they can't even swap out a battery with out screwing something up and then try to sell me a "tune-up".

places such as Autozone sell an exhaust pipe repair kit. but rusted exhaust pipe holes are like roaches, there is never just one.

another option is to drop $800 on a RB exhaust. pacesetter sells one for ~$300. problem is that the Pacesetter muffler I had on a porsche 914 (vw) rusted within a year. question is: is there another viable choice besides RB?

ya, I know this post is simple minded to all you that have studied exhaust diameter, back pressure, long and short collectors and its trade offs between rpm, torque, and horsepower.

 

Keep your eyes peeled for a used Racing Beat exhaust.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...worth-1020308/

 

old parking brake cable

and I just found all kinds of holes in the exhaust pipe. Are those repair kits any good?

 

You get what you pay for. The stock system is very restrictive, and the RB exhaust will give a performance benefit and will last longer than your car.

I bought a used RB system for $300. It's not shiny but it's rock solid.
You can find stories all over the forum of how thin, cheap and short-lifespan a pacesetter can be. Don't waste your time!

 

ROCKAUTO will reimburse me the cost $14 for the cable that they sent me, that was supposed to replace the RIGHT rear parking cable.

The right rear parking cable that looks like it would of fitted my 1983 rx-7 is shown at the bottom of the page as being for a 1979 rx-7 RIGHT rear parking cable.

And I DON'T have to return the cable that they sent me.

 

RockAuto is awesome, I will be using them for my couple of winter projects here shortly.

I'm talking to the owner of that RB exhaust and can't wait to get it in my posession