ok im doing a custom injection setup for my soon to be 12a turbo motor, and i was wondering what is a good gph rating or a less expensive fuel pump i can get that will work adequetly to oh lets say 400 hp,


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEROM...09001684QQrdZ1

i think this might be a bit overkill but im not sure, i will be using an aeromotive 1:1 rising rate fpr, and im not sure which injectors yet, but maybe someone with experience can help me out,

thanks

 

Yes, it's overkill... But, too much is always better than not enough, and it will support you when you blow your 12A and move up to a 13B.

 

i was also thinking about just using an intank pump for a fc, and make it work on my 12a tank, that way i can make a nice splash gaurd for it at the same time,

lets say i do that, would one of those walbro pumps off ebay be enough?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WALBR...spagenameZWDVW

cause i want something a bit overkill but not too overkill ya know, that way theres room for upgrade. but intank would be awsome, less noise , any aftermarket fc pump would work, last longer, the works, pluss i need an excuse to drop my tank and fix my fuel gauge sending unit, just a thought i had...

Paul

 

Still overkill,but thats OK.
The intank is THE way to go.Ive been 100% satisfied with my conversion.Im running a SupraTT pump in my modified 12A tank with an FC assembely and slosh baffle.Its good for 400HP and fits great in the FB tank,plus its completely silent.


With this setup,your set to fuel pretty much any EFI system you can imagine.The best part is an FD,Cosmo or SupraTT pump is an easy drop in upgrade for the stock TII pump,and any one of them is cheaper and much quieter than the Walbro.Just do the mods to the tank,run another FB fuel feed line as a return line and install an FC fuel filter.Its easy,clean and all youll ever need.

 

Overkill, yes. I run that pump on my car.

However,
Never buy a USED fuel pump. Especially a big one like that.

 

can you show me pics on how you did your modified 12a tank, did you also use the fc fuel gauge sending unit, ? my plan was to block off the old lines that are welded into the tank, and cut a hole using a 3" hole saw and just make er work, did you weld a small section from and fc tank in or how did you go about it, ? sounds like a wicked setup!!!

is that the 12a tank there? ,maybe i just cant recognise it with that big oval hole on the top.


thanks Paul

 

i say there is no over kill on a turbo, running out of fuel in a boosted rotary is about the worst thing you can do.

 

True,but running a 1000HP fuel pump the size of a loaf of bread has its drawbacks!!

The FC intank setup is just fine for up to 400HP,which is mighty impressive for any rotary,especially a 12A.The stock 1st gen feed hardlines are the same ID as the SupraTT and other fuel pump's outlets (5/16").
If you plan on exceeding this setup's capacities,its time to start looking at a fuel cell,1/2"ID hardlines,dual pumps and all kinds of other crazy stuff.Not to mention a 9" rearend,TII trans,full rollcage,blah,blah,blah,blah,blah.......my point being,if you can exceed the intank pump's abilities,youve pretty much got a wicked,crazy 1st gen track car on you hands and a gutted interior,cage and race-ready fuel system are the norm.A clean,quite intank setup should satify 99% of the 1st gen street crowd.
My setup is very simple,autopaul.Youll need,
A regular 81-85 12A tank
Any FC tank and pump assembely from 86-92
A second 1st gen fuel feed line
Some 5/16" EFI fuel hose and clamps
An FC fuel filter and mount
A nibbler or bodysaw or jigsaw
A good welder or a shop to handle it
Lots of soap and water

First,gut the FC tank.Remove the fuelpump assembely and the small circular vent.Then chop up the tank and remove the 2 mounting rings on top and the slosh baffle in the bottom.Take your time and grind out the spot welds being carful not to damage the parts you will use.
Clean the FB tank thoroughly with water and soap.Get it spotless and let it dry in the sun.Be absolutely sure theres no sign of any fuel residue before you weld,cut or take it to a shop.My biggest problem was finding a shop willing to touch a gas tank.(I didnt have a good welder of my own at the time) It took 3 tries but I found a small shop that agreed once they sniffed the inside of the tank.
Use the right tool to enlarge the FB tank's original fuel pickup hole to match the size and shape of the oval hole in the FC tank.Just ahead of that,drill a round hole to accept the FC tank vent.
Take the FB tank,the 2 FC rings and the slosh baffle and weld/braze/TIG/solder/spot them to the FB tank, being sure that everything is lined up and level.Once its all in place,be sure the pump and vent ring's rubber gaskets are in good shape and pliable and everything fits well.
Drop in the pump assembely with the pump of your choice.Drop in the fuel tank vent.Drop in the stock FB gauge sending unit on the side.If your stock low fuel light sensor has gone bad,like mine,you can just run that wire to the FC sending unit since it has its own sensor for that function.
You can now ditch all the FB fuel mess under the car,except for the stock feed hardline and stock vent hardline.
Be sure to drill a hole in the back hatch area for the fuel pump wires and their little body plug.Install some bulk EFI hose on the FC feed/return lines and the vent,then mount the tank.Install your second FB feed line alongside the original feed line and hook up the 2 rubber hoses to them(BE SURE YOU KNOW WHICH ONE IS FEED AND WHICH ONE IS RETURN)Hook up the vent hose to the FB vent hardline.
Install the FC fuel filter in the open little space near the firewall's base,just like on the FC chassis.Then run some short EFI hoses to your engine.

I dont have any more pics and its not exactly easy to drop my tank to take more,ya know?
Its really simple,theres no trick to it since your basically just copying the stock FC fuel system,all the way from the tank to the engine.My setup has been flawless for years and I can get to about 2 gallons left before the fuel pressure gauge starts to flutter and I get a little cutout.And thats only if I corner hard or drive rough.Once the light comes on,I can drive normally until the tank is bone dry,or I fill up.

 

I run the A1000 also. Just like Directfreak stated, it's overkill, and I would not suggest you buy a used pump either. Make sure your fuel system is a full return style if using a large pump like the A1000. One thing is for sure, you won't be running a lean mixture due to lack of fuel supply.

 

I would just get one of the walbro's off ebay.

 

alright im having the same question and dilema....but i dont want to have to remove my gas tank and have all that hassle b/c the people around here really hate welding anything.....i would rather just go with an aftermarket full pump.....what is a good recommend PSI....if u look at my signature ull see that i say i already have it but i decided not to purchase the one i was goin with b/c i was told differently....but the turbo and everything else is still the same...so any help will be greatly appreciated

 

You're going Blow-thru turbo..

Use a stock GSL-SE fuel pump, and the mallory 4309.

 

If your not going EFI,you can retain the stock tank and run whatever external pump you want.Fluctuations to fuel pressure due to slosh induced air bubbles,wont have much affect on a carb since they are trickle fed at low pressures,so you can skip the in-tank mods.Just run a good aftermarket pump in the stock location.
If you want to run EFI,but not modify the tank,youll have to swap in a GSL-SE fuel tank.It will feed fuel to an external pump and it has a built in slosh baffle around the factory pickup to prevent air bubbles from killing your delivery pressure.

 

yea, i used the msd fuel pump. cost me 50 bucks brand new and it's been damn reliable for years. WOOOT! i had to run a pretty big return line tho to get the fuel pressure down to 3psi hahaha