Ok, one more...Air/Oil cooler installation.
Ok, one more...Air/Oil cooler installation.
Got to looking under my hood, and I thought I had it all figured out on how to convert to the air oil cooler, until I noticed the oil PSI sender is wher the rear line comes off of the air/oil cooled engines. So uh, after I put the oil cooler lines on, where do I put the oil PSI sender? Funny I didnt even notice it until today, and i just changed the dang thing the other day, lol.
~T.J.
PS - Its an 83 with an 84 engine in it.
~T.J.
PS - Its an 83 with an 84 engine in it.
Ok, this is interesting...Heres a pic from under the car...This is where the rear oil cooler line should go, but someone put an adapter in (so I have figured out), and at the top where the sender is supposed to go is covered with JB weld. ****. Also, the hole at the bottom (where the line is supposed to go) in the pic seems modified with JB weld as well...Great. Looks like I have a bigger project than expected. Any one have any advise?
~T.J.
~T.J.
Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; Nov 27, 2002 at 08:08 PM.
ok,a fitting that goes to the housing,with a hose fitting, and a place for the psi sender, 2 in 1 type deal, would work,,,right ?
.~T.J.
EDIT: Or I could get one of those oil pressure/oil temp block things for under the pedistol thing...But that cost more money that I shouldnt have to spend. Plus, what happens if its the damn JB weld leaking? Or, as 82transam pointed out (and I was suspicious of), why did it get plugged anyway?
~T.J.
Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; Nov 27, 2002 at 09:46 PM.
I couldn't dream of why,,somebody did that,, man.
but thats how it is, so now your gonna have to fab it yourself. no biggie,, i'd say use brass for the main fitting
to the housing, with a hole for the oil sender, and a hole at the end for the banjo bolt. 2 in 1. and use feflon tape on all the threads. if that jb weld crap doesn't leak then don't **** with it, for now, untill you have the resourses to fix or repair it the proper way.. you know ?
Thats what i came up with,, maybe someone has another method..just trying to lend a hand. oh,,and happy holiday .
but thats how it is, so now your gonna have to fab it yourself. no biggie,, i'd say use brass for the main fitting
to the housing, with a hole for the oil sender, and a hole at the end for the banjo bolt. 2 in 1. and use feflon tape on all the threads. if that jb weld crap doesn't leak then don't **** with it, for now, untill you have the resourses to fix or repair it the proper way.. you know ?
Thats what i came up with,, maybe someone has another method..just trying to lend a hand. oh,,and happy holiday .
The seder should be located right under the oilfilter.. or it has been on my engine.. both 13B and 12A...
. Youre looking at the sender from under the car on the drivers side, so the engine is on the left, and transmission on the right. The oil pan is in the bottom left corner. The stock location was sealed (I hope) with JB weld for whatever reason.
I couldn't dream of why,,somebody did that,, man.
use feflon tape on all the threads.
~T.J.
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Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
Would I really want to use teflon tape? I mean, isint the sender supposed to be able to ground to the block? I would think that the teflon tape would block the grounding, I dont know though.
~T.J.
Would I really want to use teflon tape? I mean, isint the sender supposed to be able to ground to the block? I would think that the teflon tape would block the grounding, I dont know though.
~T.J.
So only do like half the threads that actually thread in? So like if the thing is two inches long threading in, I could do the first inch and then leave the second inch to ground?
~T.J.
~T.J.
You wont have that many threads. Just leave the first 3-4 or so threads alone, and tape up the rest. You never want to risk getting tape up in the sensor tip, so use the tip as the ground spot.
I know I wont have that many, I was just sayig that for "illustrative purpose"
. But that makes sense about the tip, thanks for the tip, lol. Anyway, it will be a little while before I can tackle this, but when I do, Im gonna be ready
. Thanks.
~T.J.
. But that makes sense about the tip, thanks for the tip, lol. Anyway, it will be a little while before I can tackle this, but when I do, Im gonna be ready
. Thanks.~T.J.
Yeah, I know what you mean. Thanks Mark. Although, I think Im going to go with an oil pressure/oil temperature adapter block. I think It will just make it easier in the long run, as I want to add other oil pressure gauges eventually anyway.
~T.J.
~T.J.
Ok guys, Im bumping this thread up rather than starthing a whole new one about the same problem again.
I need to figure out what I can do about this problem of not having anywhere to put my oil PSI sender. Also, what should I think aobut possibly doing if the hole is "modifed" with JB weld or something as it looks it may be in the pic?
What would you do?
~T.J.
I need to figure out what I can do about this problem of not having anywhere to put my oil PSI sender. Also, what should I think aobut possibly doing if the hole is "modifed" with JB weld or something as it looks it may be in the pic?
What would you do?
~T.J.
That doesn't look modified with JB Weld. Looks like all they did was tap the block-off plug for the sender threads. The plug is worthless when you swap oil coolers anyway.
They probably stripped the original hole and just did that as a half-assed fix.
They probably stripped the original hole and just did that as a half-assed fix.
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