i use to use on my rex before i put the turbo Valvoline Max Life 10w-30 and fram double gard filter but im going to get a mazda oil filter today and i would like to know what oil you suggest to use on my turbo N/A setup. i was thinking to get Valvoline or Mobil- 20w50 or 10w30 but i dont know if 20w-50 is too thick for the king of weather is here. i would like to hear sugestion of what king of oil and brand i can use. thanks

 

My N/A 13b was built up last year. Initially I had Mobile1 20W-50 in it. For some reason, it burned through the stuff like crazy. Switched over to Val 15W-40 and haven't gone through any.

I don't know if it's typical.

 

Castrol GTX - 10W-40

 

As long as you don't use penzoil or quaker state, you should be good. Pennsylvania oil is high in sulfer content.

 

Castrol GTX 20W/50 for sunny S. California

 

 

Does Castrol still make the 10W-50? I'm going back to that...the other streetport 12A in the wrecked '80 was on Mobil1 with MMO to keep everything clean...worked great and saved the engine one time when one of the side heater hoses blew and I drove it home in the red zone for 5 minutes with no coolant....Mobil1 is not joking when they say it can take the heat,,,engine didn't smoke or consume more oil after the incident...

 

What kind of oil can you use? Anything you want. Just make sure use the correct weight for your area.

 

that why im asking because i live in upstate NY and over here 2/3 of the year is winter (from -30 to 50) and humid rarelly get over 90 in summer, exept last year, but most of the time is cool and i hear for turbo engine you have to use 20w-50 but im worry that is too thick for the weather here.

 

yes turbo N/A setup, 85 gslse N/A engine with a 88 turbo II turbo

 

Exactly. Use 10w30.

 

I wouldn't use 10w40... Too high of a range of viscosity, measne theres a lotta viscosity enhancer additives in there.

4:1 20w50 - MMO, for summer

4.5:0.5 10w30 - MMO, for winter

Brand is still up for debate. Everyone reccomends Castrol GTX, but I still have not seen a good reason to stick with it. None the less, it was what I was using when I had my RX-7 running.

I will now stay away fron Pennzoil due to high sulphur content. Thanks fo rthe heads up purple82...

I've heard Halvoline is good because it's light yellow, almost greenish color indicates that it has few additives... I froght what oil I last put in my Honda, but it too had this kind of color... It wasn't the cheapest oil at the store, but it was also a few bucks cheaper than Castrol GTX... (I buy by the 12 bottle case and 3 filters at a time.)

 

i'm with directfreak i prefer Castrol GTX - 10W-40 IMHO of course

 

same for here in TX

 

Ahhh,but what kind of stress is the oil pump seeing at start up on days like this?? Arf! Jes' havin' fun, maihn...

 

I've got 20w-50 in my rex and it's pretty cold here in IL. Runs just fine no problems here.

 

I woulden"t ues any synthetic oil if you are still running the omp.

I think I'm going to go with 10w-40 castrol and change it when ever it starts to smell like gas or when it starts to turn a darker brown.

 

you are all wrong. oil is weight. i spray a can of pam (the low fat kind) into each chamber, coating the internals and then fly like a ****. psht, oil.

 

I recomend Royal Purple Synthetic Oil. It is actually dyno proven, it gives you like almost 10 HP. And its good for the car.

Thomas Stifter

 

do you know that synthetic oil is bad for rotary . thanks anyway i got castrol GTX 10w-30

 

 

i agree with Rotary13b1, castrol 20w-50, gotta love southern cali where its 80 in winter

 

That's not true anymore Maybe it was with the old synthetics but the new synthetics burn off much more cleaner FYI. I have used Royal Purple and right now I have Valvoline Racing 5w50 in it. I may go back to Purple but I change my oil so often that I cant see paying more for the Purple. I also Premix.

 

Synthetic oil is still synthetic. It has ingredients which prevent heat up and thus wear. It dissipates heat better and is designed to lubricate and function in extreme temperatures. I don't think it is a good idea to use in your rotary since anything that makes it hard for your rotary to burn oil would be inhibiting the proper design of the engine. Besides if your engine has more than 60 or 70k it really won't protect any better than conventional oil if you didn't use it from the beginning.

 

What about using MMO to break up the synthetic chains and thus get it to burn in the combustion chambers? Could be the best of both worlds waiting right there. I was doing that for the '80 12A RP streeport, but the long term experiment was cut short by a '02 Caddy last May....

ps. I'm convinced the Mobil1 saved the engine one unfortunate night when the plastic housing for the fuse on the electric fan dissolved and I had to limp it home with the heater blowing on high and dodging in and out of rush hour traffic trying to avoid coming to a complete standstill. It still happened a couple of times and the car made it home with the temp neddle pegged out and it stopped immediately when i got it home. I was going to rush out get some water across the radiator and jump the fan with my starter cables, but it died the second my foot came off the gas pedal. I let it sit for two days to cool completely down, turned it by hand with the belts a couple of times and tried starting it. It started right up, no smoke and settled into its normal idle like nothing had happened. I replaced the crap plastic fuse holder with a Fusion 50A breaker so I'd never be put in that position again and never looked back. The engine showed no signs of being hurt and the oil even looked the same. Mobil's not joking about that frying pan commercial...