Oil Question
08-05-03, 04:10 AM
#52
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Originally posted by vipernicus42
What we need is someone who's experienced in tearing down and rebuilding rotaries..
Get this person to rebuild an engine (taking note of what it looks like before the rebuild)... run it for a few thousand km, and break it down again.
Same thing with "regular" oil.
What we need is someone who's experienced in tearing down and rebuilding rotaries..
Get this person to rebuild an engine (taking note of what it looks like before the rebuild)... run it for a few thousand km, and break it down again.
Same thing with "regular" oil.
Rice Racing who is on this forum for instance swears by Mobil 1. He is an engineer and a race engine builder which means he tears down and inspects his own and his customers engines regularly. He said the reduction in engine wear was incredible and there are no issues with "burning" when used in conjuction with the oil metering pump.
08-05-03, 04:15 AM
#53
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Originally posted by The_7
it proves that it doesnt burn clean, leaving gooey deposits, and that if his OMP was connected, thats what would be in the engine.
it proves that it doesnt burn clean, leaving gooey deposits, and that if his OMP was connected, thats what would be in the engine.
08-06-03, 07:46 PM
#54
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Ok, I'm going out on a limb and saying the whole dangerous synthetic oil thing is a bunch of 'Net Bull$hit started somewhere in the not-too-distant past that has become a "truth" from being repeated so many times. It's a lie. Synthetics are not bad for rotaries. There you go...
08-06-03, 09:39 PM
#59
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What I meant was that the lie was already making the circles via the Net before we all got to this place to hear it from some other un-named source, but that the reason it lives is because we all bought into the lie and told it here...how's that for a hell of a run-on sentence?? Al Gore...the next President, if he'll just let the scruff grow out again...
08-08-03, 07:07 PM
#62
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Originally posted by vipernicus42
I got my connection in '96....
I still stand by my "why spend the extra money when it could be better spent on beer" stance
Jon
I got my connection in '96....
I still stand by my "why spend the extra money when it could be better spent on beer" stance
Jon
08-08-03, 08:19 PM
#63
Airflow is my life
Of course there is, look at my post above yours. Better gas milage means more beer $. Now MORE beer $ is a logic that CANT be argued. And lees time changing oil means more beer drinking time!
Lets see, more beer $ AND more time to drink it..... Its a no brainer!
And lees time changing oil means more beer drinking time!Lets see, more beer $ AND more time to drink it..... Its a no brainer!
04-22-04, 04:24 AM
#64
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Originally posted by vipernicus42
Yeah, and at the end of the intake manifold we find???
The rotor's seal passing by. Sure the intake mixture doesn't spray *directly* onto the apex seal (unless you have a peripheral port intake), but it gets there. Otherwise the whole OMP thing would never have even been concieved.
It just seems to make sense to me that to lubricate in the combustion chamber, you'd use an oil that's been designed to burn off and leave virtually nothing behind (except a bit of lube in the case of 2-stroke oil.. a bonus for us). Regular old motor oil isn't *designed* to burn, but it isn't designed *not* to either. Bottles of synthetic oil boast the ability to resist burning, not a good thing in our case.
And the final point in my mind:
Synthetic is almost double the price here. If I'm changing my oil every 4,000km, I don't need the "added protection" of synthetic. I don't need it's amazing lube ability and it's formula "specially designed to reduce oil burning".... All I need is 10w30 (or 20w50 for some of us) that was specially designed by a million years of crushed dinosaur and plant particulate! That's it! $15 for four litres, and my Rx7 loves it.
And if I get the chance, I'm putting that two-stroke resivoir in with the OMP adapter. There must be something about two-stroke that makes it good for our engine, or else premix guys would just run 10w30 in their gas tanks! (yeah, I know, it doesn't mix as well).
Jon
Yeah, and at the end of the intake manifold we find???
The rotor's seal passing by. Sure the intake mixture doesn't spray *directly* onto the apex seal (unless you have a peripheral port intake), but it gets there. Otherwise the whole OMP thing would never have even been concieved.
It just seems to make sense to me that to lubricate in the combustion chamber, you'd use an oil that's been designed to burn off and leave virtually nothing behind (except a bit of lube in the case of 2-stroke oil.. a bonus for us). Regular old motor oil isn't *designed* to burn, but it isn't designed *not* to either. Bottles of synthetic oil boast the ability to resist burning, not a good thing in our case.
And the final point in my mind:
Synthetic is almost double the price here. If I'm changing my oil every 4,000km, I don't need the "added protection" of synthetic. I don't need it's amazing lube ability and it's formula "specially designed to reduce oil burning".... All I need is 10w30 (or 20w50 for some of us) that was specially designed by a million years of crushed dinosaur and plant particulate! That's it! $15 for four litres, and my Rx7 loves it.
And if I get the chance, I'm putting that two-stroke resivoir in with the OMP adapter. There must be something about two-stroke that makes it good for our engine, or else premix guys would just run 10w30 in their gas tanks! (yeah, I know, it doesn't mix as well).
Jon
I have never seen where it says resist oil burning
have seen oils that claim not to have thermal breakdown
or least toresist it
but as someone else brought up
if your motor is at the point where the oil is going through thermal breakdown there is prolly a problem in the motor
not the oil
have also seen products that reduce oil burning though
but that isn't that they resist oil burning but reduce it
by making a really thick product to try to make the oil not leak as much into the combustion area
as far as the oils burning
think most of them have a flash point of around 400-500 degrees or so
combustion temps are in excess of 1800 degrees
wonder if the oil will burn or not?
04-22-04, 03:39 PM
#66
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ah crap
I'm sorry guys
was asleep last night
forgive me
I used castrol GTX 10w-30 20w-50 and mobil 1 10w-30 now
but search
and unlike me don't bring up the dead horse
I'm sorry guys
was asleep last night
forgive me
I used castrol GTX 10w-30 20w-50 and mobil 1 10w-30 now
but search
and unlike me don't bring up the dead horse
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