oil pan woes,
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Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 56
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From: spokane washington
oil pan woes,
it appears i need to do some oil pan gasket repairs. any easy way of doing this without removing the motor from the car? i planned on lifting it up off the motor mounts as high as possible but will that be enough?
thanks
thanks
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enter oil pan removal by topic
filter for 1st generation specific
Lots of good information.
This thread has some step-by-step directions:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...emoval-888549/
enter oil pan removal by topic
filter for 1st generation specific
Lots of good information.
This thread has some step-by-step directions:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...emoval-888549/
It's a tight fit, but here is how I've done it.
1. Put care on jackstands
2. Remove passenger side idler arm to allow steering to be moved out of the way.
3. Use cherry picker to support engine.
4. Remove two nuts (one each side) that attaches engine crossmember.
5. Jack engine up as high as it will go without lifting car. If you go too far, the weight of the car will be on the cherry picker.
6. Drain oil from pan.
7. Remove 22 oil pan bolts.
8. Clean pan.
9. I like to use a gasket and silicon. Some use just silicon. I tried right stuff but it setup too fast.
10. The tricky part is getting the pan back in around the oil pickup and not messing up the silicon.
11. Clean engine side matting surface and pan bolt holds. Make sure and old silicon is not in the holes.
12. Tight pan bolts to spec. DO NOT overtighten.
13. Let car sit overnight for silicon to set up.
1. Put care on jackstands
2. Remove passenger side idler arm to allow steering to be moved out of the way.
3. Use cherry picker to support engine.
4. Remove two nuts (one each side) that attaches engine crossmember.
5. Jack engine up as high as it will go without lifting car. If you go too far, the weight of the car will be on the cherry picker.
6. Drain oil from pan.
7. Remove 22 oil pan bolts.
8. Clean pan.
9. I like to use a gasket and silicon. Some use just silicon. I tried right stuff but it setup too fast.
10. The tricky part is getting the pan back in around the oil pickup and not messing up the silicon.
11. Clean engine side matting surface and pan bolt holds. Make sure and old silicon is not in the holes.
12. Tight pan bolts to spec. DO NOT overtighten.
13. Let car sit overnight for silicon to set up.
Only if you can lift the engine high enough so the pan can clear it. This would require the engine and trans comer apart.
The long steering arm sits directly behind the bulge in the pan and there isn't enough room to remove the pan. The idler arm is easy to remove and won't mess with any alignment. Just remove the cotter pin, washer and nut, and the arm will drop out with very little persuasion. While this is apart, it would be a good time to replace the idler arm bushings inside (plastic bushings) and grease it up good inside.
The long steering arm sits directly behind the bulge in the pan and there isn't enough room to remove the pan. The idler arm is easy to remove and won't mess with any alignment. Just remove the cotter pin, washer and nut, and the arm will drop out with very little persuasion. While this is apart, it would be a good time to replace the idler arm bushings inside (plastic bushings) and grease it up good inside.
You probably won't get a perfect seal the first time. I've always found that, after sealing the oil pan, its good to run the car for a few minutes and check for oozing or leaking. Then "blot/smear" extra RTV where it leaking.
The plate on plate on plate etc design of the rotary engine makes sealing the oil pan a real pita. I think RB or Mazdatrix has an oil pan brace that helps.
The plate on plate on plate etc design of the rotary engine makes sealing the oil pan a real pita. I think RB or Mazdatrix has an oil pan brace that helps.