oil pan
11-23-06, 03:03 AM
#1
NIKOCRX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: greece
Posts: 616
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oil pan
Hi,i own a 80' with 91 t2 engine full swap.my problem is that the oil pan (chopped) is always leaking....the leak is not where is cuted but where the bolts are.all around.i did try to use 2 materialls glue,new gasket,but the problem remains.what should i do? 
11-23-06, 11:53 AM
#3
13b P-port on a budget
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just get an SE oil pan from racing beat there like 100 shipped or around there. Get a new gasket and make sure you clean the area off really good use a good sealent to.
11-30-06, 08:59 PM
#5
FB+FC=F-ME
If you are running the 91 front cover,then the SE oilpan will not match up.The footprint of the 2nd gen front cover is different than the 1st gen engines.
Are you running 1st gen style engine mounts in the front,or have you converted to 2nd gen style mid-engine mounts?
Are you running 1st gen style engine mounts in the front,or have you converted to 2nd gen style mid-engine mounts?
12-05-06, 01:07 AM
#6
NIKOCRX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: greece
Posts: 616
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i did found an oil pan from my old engine (13b carb).i have to change the front cover to mach the front bolts.but there are 2 new problems now...
1)the old one front cover use mechanikal oil pump and the new one electric oil pump which is bigger and it doesn't fit.
2)the 91 front cover has a hole for the return of the oil from turbo,the old one doesn't (because it was carb)...
what can i do now?
1)the old one front cover use mechanikal oil pump and the new one electric oil pump which is bigger and it doesn't fit.
2)the 91 front cover has a hole for the return of the oil from turbo,the old one doesn't (because it was carb)...
what can i do now?
Trending Topics
12-05-06, 04:20 PM
#12
Sorry Nick812, the only way that will work with an S5 engine is if the e-mop is still connected and tied off to the side somewhere, which is an option. Otherwise the ecu goes into limp mod, not fun.
NIKOE, are you front or mid-mounting the engine? That will determine which front cover and pan you need and what mods will need to be done.
NIKOE, are you front or mid-mounting the engine? That will determine which front cover and pan you need and what mods will need to be done.
12-05-06, 08:18 PM
#13
FB+FC=F-ME
Yea,thats my question too.
What motor mounts are you using now,before you decided to tackle the oil leak?
Are you running the electric OMP and the stock turbo oil drain now?
If so,how did you have the engine mounted?
If youve already gone thorugh the trouble of making 2nd gen style mounts for the engine,then Id just stick with the S5 front cover,OMP and drain......then concentrate on making a quality custom oilpan that wont leak.Doing that should be far less work than the custom 2nd gen mounting issues.If your determined to mount the engine with the 1st gen style front cover,youll need to get a GSL-SE oilpan and front cover.Then have the front cover modded to accept the S5 OMP so the computor doesnt go haywire.Thats what I did,and its worked great for many years now.It will require TIG welding and machining to pull it off,but youll retain the simplicity of the 1st gen mounts and a stock oilpan.
BTW,plugging in and tying off the S5 OMP,then premixing will work.I did it for a short time,but there is no garuantee as to how long the OMP will work like that,since there is no lubrication running through it while its being operated by the ECU.....
What motor mounts are you using now,before you decided to tackle the oil leak?
Are you running the electric OMP and the stock turbo oil drain now?
If so,how did you have the engine mounted?
If youve already gone thorugh the trouble of making 2nd gen style mounts for the engine,then Id just stick with the S5 front cover,OMP and drain......then concentrate on making a quality custom oilpan that wont leak.Doing that should be far less work than the custom 2nd gen mounting issues.If your determined to mount the engine with the 1st gen style front cover,youll need to get a GSL-SE oilpan and front cover.Then have the front cover modded to accept the S5 OMP so the computor doesnt go haywire.Thats what I did,and its worked great for many years now.It will require TIG welding and machining to pull it off,but youll retain the simplicity of the 1st gen mounts and a stock oilpan.
BTW,plugging in and tying off the S5 OMP,then premixing will work.I did it for a short time,but there is no garuantee as to how long the OMP will work like that,since there is no lubrication running through it while its being operated by the ECU.....
12-06-06, 12:48 PM
#14
NIKOCRX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: greece
Posts: 616
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the engine is front mounting.i run with s4 now and i will use s5.i have both oil pans and front covers,i also have both oil pumps,mechanikal and electric (s4and s5) take a look.and thanks for your help!
12-06-06, 07:22 PM
#15
NIKOCRX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: greece
Posts: 616
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i'm thinking now to cut the end of the front plate (where the oil pan drills)and swap it to the s5 plate... what do you think?i dont want to premix because i'm afraid that i may have problems with nozzles...what do you think?
what do you think?i dont want to premix because i'm afraid that i may have problems with nozzles...what do you think?
12-06-06, 07:48 PM
#16
What you have for a front mount is one that I have never seen. It's not the typical front mount for pre-86 engines. I can't get a good view/understanding of the pic for left hand side mount, but if it clears the S5 front cover and e-mop, I would work on the oil pan that you have and fix it so it didn't leak. That may be your simplest/cheapest option. Do you have any idea where the current mounts came from or who made them?
12-06-06, 09:32 PM
#17
FB+FC=F-ME
Hmmm....
Thats a new one for me.
The left side mount is a regular steel FC engine mount thats been made to connect the engine at the AC bracket studs, to the stock 1st gen rubber mount.....Looks pretty ingenious.
I cant make out the right side mount from the picture, though.It probably doesnt mount the same way,since there are no studs on that side of the engine,and it cant mount in the regular FC fashion since that would require an FC oilpan,which wont clear the FB crossmember....I wonder if it ties into the exhaust manifold studs?
Id like to see your custom,leaking oilpan....to get an idea of how it was made,and what parts were used.Your current mounts look pretty decent.If you can get the pan to stop leaking,that would be by far the easiest way to upgrade to S5,since you wont have to make any mods to the S5 front cover.I had to deal with making a custom welded S5 OMP pad on an SE front cover,then finding space to route the turbo oil drain...your turbo oil drain will be like stock if you keep your current mounts and oilpan.
Welding up a steel oilpan is a lot easier than welding up and machining the aluminum front cover
Thats a new one for me.
The left side mount is a regular steel FC engine mount thats been made to connect the engine at the AC bracket studs, to the stock 1st gen rubber mount.....Looks pretty ingenious.
I cant make out the right side mount from the picture, though.It probably doesnt mount the same way,since there are no studs on that side of the engine,and it cant mount in the regular FC fashion since that would require an FC oilpan,which wont clear the FB crossmember....I wonder if it ties into the exhaust manifold studs?
Id like to see your custom,leaking oilpan....to get an idea of how it was made,and what parts were used.Your current mounts look pretty decent.If you can get the pan to stop leaking,that would be by far the easiest way to upgrade to S5,since you wont have to make any mods to the S5 front cover.I had to deal with making a custom welded S5 OMP pad on an SE front cover,then finding space to route the turbo oil drain...your turbo oil drain will be like stock if you keep your current mounts and oilpan.
Welding up a steel oilpan is a lot easier than welding up and machining the aluminum front cover
12-07-06, 05:03 PM
#18
NIKOCRX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: greece
Posts: 616
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i did make the mounts from stock engine parts...i think i will modify the oil pan to drill right.i will add some iron and drill it to much the holes.take a look to my leaking oil pan.the size is fine,but leaking... 
12-07-06, 05:38 PM
#21
I'm impressed with the way you mounted the engine. Very nice work around solution. If nothing else, you might consider using an oil pan gasket as a template, then cut out a piece of 1/8" mild steel. From there you have 2 oprions. One would be to weld the ring to the pan as a stiffener and hope that you can keep the mating surface flat, the other, which I think would be easier and more eloquent, would be to use the ring on the outside of the pan and use it to draw the flange on the pan flat and tight to the bottom of the block.
Be sure to flatten both the pan flange and ring as true as possible as the alumunum threads in the housings and front cover can easily strip if you try to draw any gaps down too tight. The oem cork pan gasket will have some give to make up for minor irregularities, but over tightening the gasket will lead to leaks also.
Be sure to flatten both the pan flange and ring as true as possible as the alumunum threads in the housings and front cover can easily strip if you try to draw any gaps down too tight. The oem cork pan gasket will have some give to make up for minor irregularities, but over tightening the gasket will lead to leaks also.
12-07-06, 06:47 PM
#22
NIKOCRX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: greece
Posts: 616
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by trochoid
I'm impressed with the way you mounted the engine. Very nice work around solution. If nothing else, you might consider using an oil pan gasket as a template, then cut out a piece of 1/8" mild steel. From there you have 2 oprions. One would be to weld the ring to the pan as a stiffener and hope that you can keep the mating surface flat, the other, which I think would be easier and more eloquent, would be to use the ring on the outside of the pan and use it to draw the flange on the pan flat and tight to the bottom of the block.
Be sure to flatten both the pan flange and ring as true as possible as the alumunum threads in the housings and front cover can easily strip if you try to draw any gaps down too tight. The oem cork pan gasket will have some give to make up for minor irregularities, but over tightening the gasket will lead to leaks also.
Be sure to flatten both the pan flange and ring as true as possible as the alumunum threads in the housings and front cover can easily strip if you try to draw any gaps down too tight. The oem cork pan gasket will have some give to make up for minor irregularities, but over tightening the gasket will lead to leaks also.
12-07-06, 10:38 PM
#24
FB+FC=F-ME
Very nice job on the mounts!Id implement that idea to my car, if I didnt have the rack and pinion steering in the way.
Looks like youve done the hard work already,welding the 1st gen pan to the 2nd gen pan flange....nice thinking BTW.
As T stated,itd probably be best to stick with what you got,and work on sealing it up.Eliminate any leaks that might exist in the welds first.You could sit the pan flat and fill it up with solvent or diesel fuel, to find any leaks below the flange line.Then make some load spreading stiffeners, under the pan bolts to keep it true to the block.
Looks like youve done the hard work already,welding the 1st gen pan to the 2nd gen pan flange....nice thinking BTW.
As T stated,itd probably be best to stick with what you got,and work on sealing it up.Eliminate any leaks that might exist in the welds first.You could sit the pan flat and fill it up with solvent or diesel fuel, to find any leaks below the flange line.Then make some load spreading stiffeners, under the pan bolts to keep it true to the block.