i noticed the lines coming from the oil metering pump didnt have much oil going thru the lines to the carb... i replaced the metering pump and still didnt see much oil going thru..

I dumped some 2 cycle oil in the gas tank, i figure a little oil is beter than non..


any ideas as to what could be the problem?

what about just running premix?

 

Your not going to see much as the pump is only suppose to pump 2-2.5 cc's every 6 minutes.

 

and 2-2.5cc's (for those who don't know what that looks like) is 2-2.5mL or roughly 1% of the contents of a can of pop (225mL).

So take your can of pop, take out one-onehundredth of it's contents, and spread that out over 6 minutes. It's not very much.

Jon

 

OR...

2.5mL = half a teaspoon. Over 6 minutes.

Jon

 

when you premix say i think it was 16ouncs to a full tank-duno how many that is what would the cc rate be then. imaginig the premix mixed exsactly

 

from what i've read, the average mix is 1:100 parts

 

cool thanks i think iv read that too
hows ya car goin nick ya solved ya nikki problem?

 

its good to for ounce to gallon 1 oz to 1 gallon, or 16 oz to 16 gallons

 

so how many gallons in a fb tank that would determian how many ounces needed on fill up

 

i use the idemitsu stuff and run about 3/4 ounce per gallon and love it, just my opinion. im still not sure if my omp works but its not worth the risk and the rotary premix is only like 5 bucks a quart i think.

 

I rebuilt my omp and it cost me barely anything (less than a month's worth of 2-stroke oil actually). I just change my oil often (every 4,000km) and top up with 10w30 whenever she's low. Works like a charm, and I don't have to think about things when filling up.

Jon

 

the only thing is if your omp goes out do you have any warning, cause if it goes out you wont get to far i dont think. that is what happened to my car with it prevoius owner, so the premix is a for sure thing. and it take maybe 30 secs to measure it out and dump it in, its well worth my time.

 

i beleive that all FB gas tanks are 16 gallons or 15.8 or something like that but yeah 16 gallons

 

15.6 or so. 1:100 is just safe. it should be lower, but there's no way to know that the mixture is evenly distributed throughout the tank so 1:100 is a safe bet. I used to do :50 a long time ago. I'd put in a whole quart every time I filled up. LOL that got expensive nd offered no bennifit.

 

If you've ever had an OMP apart you understand why it's very hard for it to "go out".

The only thing that can cause an OMP to fail is the degredation of the rubber (or viton) O-rings which you replace when you rebuild it. Once you replace those o-rings, the OMP is good to go for another 15-20years! longer if you use viton instead of rubber.

People constantly worry about the OMP failing, and act as if it's something that happens unsolicited, at ANY time and is unpreventable. In reality it wears like any other component that has rubber parts. If you don't replace your tie rods for 20yrs, you're going to have so much play in your wheels, that the car could conceivably crash. But you don't see people going OMG! I've gotta replace my tie rod bushings with solid metal items so they don't wear!

A rebuilt OMP will be reliable for many miles and many years. Like anything else if you keep an eye on it and maintain it properly it will give you years of reliable service.

In other words, you have to *seriously* neglect your OMP for it to "go out", and it's so cheap to rebuild that it's almost stupid not to.

Jon

 

So I'm in the process of an engine swap and want to use that Rotary Aviation adapter and want to rebuild my FD OMP, where did you get that kit you keep referring to vipernicus42? That would be a huge help. Thanks

 

I have a question, I just picked up my FB and it has a omp on it, but it is being injected into the housing, Jap spec rotor housing. I brought it to a mechanic to get somthing else fixed on the car and he noticed that the "omp wasn't opening enough on the car" possibly not supplying the engine w/ enough oil?!?! What can I do about this/know if I am getting enough oil in the housing? You can see the omp in this pic.




Ryan

 

Like was stated earlier, It's not gonna be much to begin with. 2-2.5cc's per 6 minutes of engine running. If you want to test it, You can remove the lines and do a timed account of how much oil comes out of the hoses(at 2000 rpms). Personally, If you can see oil in the lines you probably don't have a problem, Just make sure your linkage is reasonably tight, A 1 mm gap is ok. OMP lines are pretty expensive and they get brittle with age so proceed at your own risk.

 

If you don't think the mop lever has enough travel, you can shim the bottom of the rod between the cotter pin and mop lever. If your plugs start oil fouling, you've shimmed too much. Another option is add 1/2 oz./gal. gas fo TC3W rated 2 cycle oil.

 

tap it, block it, and add an oil resistant reservoir.

 

What have you found to use as the oil tank?
Dennis

 

DISABLE IT!!! Then premix.

 

Im afraid of my mom or girlfriend borrowing my car, putting gas in the tank ( thinking they're doing me a favor) and not putting any 2-cycle in with it. that is why i don't premix.
just my $0.02

 

This mod is not as simple as it sounds for the S5-6 engines. If the electric mop does not send a signal to the ecu, the car goes into limp mode, so it must be retained in some manner, even if it is simply zip-tied to the fender.

Google Rotary Aviation, you will find the oil pump on the website.

 

He was asking where I got the rebuild kit

Lowe's Performance

Their website is down, but if you search for "Lowe's Performance" you'll find three or four threads where I've posted their phone number. Ordered a pair of rebuild kits last fall, they're still making 'em

The Rotary Aviation adapter will work fine in your application, since you're retaining your OMP/MOP (depending on who you ask).

Jon