1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

oil drain back into engine from filter question

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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 06:14 AM
  #26  
sgieldon's Avatar
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From: Eugene, Oregon
Since we are on this subject, kinda off of it!
If I'm running a 84 Motor without the BeeHive SetUp i.e. (79-82 Under Radiator Cooler).
My Question is? What is the Oil Capacity at Oil and Filter Change.
Haynes Manual 5.5 USqts
Haynes Manual 4.9 USqts
Pineapple Racing 12A Motor w/Finenally 4500 miles on her.
The reason I ask such a silly question is that I have changed the Oil like 4 times now and after putting in 5 qts of Castrol 20-50 w/K&N Filter my dip stick shows alittle over the full line.
Pressure is at 72psi @ WOT=Nordskog Guages
I have built such a Beautiful and Screaming Machine and cannot believe I'm asking such a Dumb Question.
Done a search so don't make that comment.
Thanks
sgieldon
steve
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Old Nov 5, 2004 | 08:33 AM
  #27  
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From: Eugene, Oregon
Anybody got the answer to this question???
I'm sure that I'm not the only RotorHead out there that has wondered this at some time when they have done this conversion setup.
sgieldon
steve
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 09:39 AM
  #28  
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From: Eugene, Oregon
Thanks For The No Help Hear!!!!
I have Helped many of ya's over the past 2 years an cannot believe NoOne will just answer this simple question???
sgieldon
steve
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 10:27 AM
  #29  
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Steve, Calm Down!

Getting all worked up over the lack of a post isn't going to do anything but make people look at you like a dumbass.

I'd be willing to bet that the reason you haven't gotten the answer is because once people posted in this thread, they didn't come back often 'cause it's not exactly the topic generating the most interest! Heck, I didn't come back since my last post, and if I had I would have answered your question!

So ... I'll answer your question!

A good way to figure out how much oil you should be using at an oil change when you've done changes like that is to try a "safe" amount, then use the dipstick to adjust up or down.

You said that using 5qts you're "just above the full line" right? Well then try leaving a few oz in the bottom of the bottle. Do your oil change, run the engine for a few minutes, let it set for a few mins, and check the dipstick.

Your car won't die from being a little above or a little below the line, as long as you aren't below the "You need oil dammit!" line. Below that line, the OMP can't get oil and you're cruisin' for a rebuild!

Try 4.8, 4.9 qt and just try to get it to hit that line.

It doesn't have to be perfect, 'cause if you put 5qt in and drive for two weeks you'll be at 4.8 anyway!

Jon
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 01:24 PM
  #30  
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From: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
if you convert from one oil-cooler style to another you'll need just the amount of oil that's in the manual (owners manual) for that style you use. Simple isn't it? That said, it's all more easier then that: I simply fill it up to around the "full" mark and don't care how much that is.
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 07:46 AM
  #31  
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From: Eugene, Oregon
Good Morning Jon and other Great RotorHeads;
I did not mean to be an Ahole on this subject, and I apoligize to all.
I was just alittle confused and rushed for the answer since I did the Oil Change yesterday. And for once wanted to know the exact capacity for a Non-Stock setup.
I just went for the 4.9qt and the line was right on.
In the past 4 oil changes I used the K&N Oil Filter PT#1004.

This time I used the Stock Mazda Oil Filter and noticed that my psi went up from 72 to 78psi @WOT.
Think that's cause the OEM Filter is smaller than the K&N one.
Anyhew thanks for the input.
And sorry about my Post!
sgieldon
steve
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