1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Nuclear Bomb Clouds Gone!! WAHOO

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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:01 PM
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Nuclear Bomb Clouds Gone!! WAHOO

Well,

I finally fixed the Nuclear Bomb Clouds that came out my car every time I cranked it, it was just a timing issue, and now that all that's fixed I have a few questions;

I found out from the Crane Cams website that the coils I run are only good up to 6,000 RPM (I shift at 7k) so I have a feeling these just aren’t good enough, why VB sells them for my car I don’t know.

I'm looking at getting MSD, Jose and every other big drag racer I've seen uses MSD so what they are doing is working and that’s what I want to go with, what's a practical setup? Just replace the coils with Blaster 2 Coils?

Also, the exhaust, I have exhaust leaks ALL over my exhaust, should I put that in priority of the ignition? I didn't know if the engine was still good so I was debating putting money into it.

Will any of this help my gas mileage? Will it help with power?

- Tech
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:09 PM
  #2  
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If the exhaust is stock; I would suggest just getting the full RB exhaust. It will notice huge gains in performance and response; not too mention sound. As for helping your mpgs, I think that RB has designed the exhaust to maintain or possibly get even better mileage from the exhaust (can't remember exactly.)

As for the coils; I definately think that it will help the car if the ones you are using are actually faulty above 6k. I'm sure that MSD Blaster coils will provide quite a bit of improvement over what you are using now.

I'm glad to hear that you got the timing figured out, man. Good luck with the car!
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:11 PM
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The coils I have in there right now are these;

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...62&showAll=yes

Would it be stupid to buy it peice by peice because I don't generally have a lot of money at once.

- Tech
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:18 PM
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What did you do to fix the problem? just adjust the distrubuter a little bit? Which way did you adjust it and how much did you turn it? also I would go with better coils and maybe a DLIDFS setup might help with the ignition problems. Also I would upgrade the exhaust if you can sometime the stock cat's are very restrictive and going to a header system and replacing the exhaust will deffinatly increase your horsepower and general fuel consuption. I would also look into cleaning your injectors and making sure you air cleaner and plugs are in good working order those are all going to affect your gas mileage.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:20 PM
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clean85owner's Avatar
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Well, I think that if you did something like an MSD 6AL swap, you'd be fine buying it piece by piece and putting it all in at once. I would just be wary of going past 6500 until you got the better parts in.

I'm not saying you have to do an MSD swap, I just know that it works very well with the rotary, and, like you said, Jose uses it; so, if you have any problems with it, you have a trained professional with MSD experience right down the road from you.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:36 PM
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Actually,

I was talking about the exhaust buying peice by piece.

Should I put the old coils back on there?

Yes I adjusted the dizzy and vacuum mushroom on the side of the dizzy, I had to adjust the mushroom before I did the actuall dizzy or it would throw the timing off when I adjusted the mushroom after I did the dizzy.

- Tech
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:55 PM
  #7  
clean85owner's Avatar
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From: Des Allemands, Louisiana
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
Actually,

I was talking about the exhaust buying peice by piece.

Should I put the old coils back on there?

Yes I adjusted the dizzy and vacuum mushroom on the side of the dizzy, I had to adjust the mushroom before I did the actuall dizzy or it would throw the timing off when I adjusted the mushroom after I did the dizzy.

- Tech
My car only has the RB header and pre-silencer with stock exhaust to the back. You will surely be fine just buying piece by piece.

Hell, you could (if you wanted) just get the header and pre-silencer, run the rest of the exhaust stock until you get some more cash, and then, just go to a shop and have them custom bend the rest of your exhaust. It will probably be cheaper than buying the entire RB system. Plus, if you get the RB header and pre-silencer and run it through a custom bent 2.25-2.5 inch exhaust capped off with a Magnaflow muffler it would sound sooooo good.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 02:45 PM
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Nah, better yet, don't even bother with the presilencer. Make your own piece or have a shop make you a custom exhaust piece. A little louder but not too much. That's what I have. Header to straight pipe to RB muffler.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 03:13 PM
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im with cdrad51 RB header straight to RB muffler nothing inbetween and its really not loud at all
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 10:38 PM
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Well,

I'm not too much into the whole loud exhaust thing, I like the way my dad's RX8 sounds (stock exhaust) so that's really what I'm kind of going for but just a tad bit louder.

Now, I reset the timing again, back to where it wouldn’t idle right because the way I set the timing it started making nuclear clouds again (i.e. the timing I thought was backwards was right to begin with) so this leads me to my next question.

The wall and it not idling right until it was warmed up, then it barely idled, even with everything trying to be tuned (idle screw, mixture screw, etc), could this be contributed to the excerpt from the Crane Cams (the coils I use) about the max being 6,500 RPM? This is almost exactly where the MPH wall hits.

Right now the timing is advanced, which it doesn’t feel as rough at the wall and I think I figured out why, my girlfriend rode with me both times, with the timing the RIGHT way and it advanced (i.e. no more rough spot) and the MPH was the same, at third gear it was hovering at about 45 MPH and barely climbing until I shifted into the next gear, which is what it was doing with the RIGHT timing you just notice it not putting the power down for some reason.

Now, my question is, WHICH coils (i.e. direct link from MSD's website) are the best that are plug and play? My mom just sent me $100 for my birthday (June 8th, I'll be 18! w00t go me!) so this $100 will either go to new coils or towards a new muffler...

Do you think the newer coils will solve the wall problem?


- Tech
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 11:00 PM
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well I have blaster 2 coils, they just drop in easily, some say they should be mounted vertically but I really don't think the modified stock ones do. But anyways just for interest what kind of condition is the regular maintence ignitor parts on your car, like your distributor cap and rotor? I have the full RB exhaust and love it, it could be louder but its got a sweet sound to it and is nice and deep. I honestly just recommend saving up and buying it all at once for shipping purposes but a guess thats not as bad for you.

The Part number on my Blaster 2 coils is: 8202

Like I said before they just drop in, takes maybe 5 minutes to put them in, just take the connections off the old ones and put them on the blaster 2's. As for a difference in performance I didn't see one at all but my ignitor was fine when I switched anyways. Im sure with the MSD 6A module you would see a difference though with the more complete burning...
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 11:04 PM
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Well,

I'm going to put the timing back tomorrow and put the stock coils back on and see if that fixes everything.

I see that MSD Blaster 2's are like $45 a piece, when I bought the Blaster Coils it says NOTHING in the Victoria British about the RPM limit and that SEVERLY pisses me off, they are going to be getting a nice email from me tonight about them not being compatible with the engine.

- Tech
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 11:07 PM
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just so you know at a local performance shop up here in Canada I was able to get 2 blaster 2 coils for 80 bucks Canadian, shop around you can find them for good prices and they seem to be a superior coil...
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 11:10 PM
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Want to sell me yours?
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 11:26 PM
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haha no, sorry but I just about have my car setup like I want it... I would think you could find them locally for cheap though, I was amazed at the price of them here.
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 11:29 PM
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I'll hump Jose's leg then!

He's been pretty good to me, always teachs me on what to fix when **** breaks (he could be like every other mechanic out there and charge me for advice lol) but I also send any rotary buisness his way that I can so I guess it works out?

- Tech
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 12:08 AM
  #17  
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As far as the ignition/exhaust question goes, I would recommend spending 20 bucks at the junkyard for a Gen2 leading coil pack and doing the 2nd Gen direct fire setup. I have that and it works great.

Then put the money you saved on ignition toward a RB exhaust system....
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 12:13 AM
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I don't trust my self to do the second gen direct fire yet, I wish someone sold a pre-made kit (i.e. plug and play) they would make good money off of idiots like me.

I'll break open a tranny and rebuild it, I'll break open an engine and rebuild it but get me away from electrical connections because I screw too much up (I build computers on the side so I know a lot about electrical, I don't like soldering and what not, takes too much time).

- Tech
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 12:25 AM
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Timing

If your timing has to be tweaked that much to make the car run correctly then there is a possibilty that you have it in wrong. It's easy to take in and out. You probably already know how but in case you dont' thats all you do is line up the crank pulley with the yellow timing mark. Pull the dist out and align the dot at the bottom witht he tab of the dist and drop straight in. when it goes in the arrow on the dist rotor should be pointing straight toward L1.
I assume you are using a timing light. without a digital advance on the light it's difficult to guess where you are advancing to.
As far as the coils go, Stick with the stock coils for now. I have used stock coils for Rpm's reaching the 8k level. When you get ready to upgrade a dlfdis sysstem will smooth out the motor for beter firing.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 12:34 AM
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Well,

The new coils were part of a tune up, we didn't know that they would sell 6k RPM coils in a ROTARY MAGAZINE! lol

The timings advanced right now so that it doesn't hit the wall at 6k rpms from the aftermarket coils.

It only has the not going past 6,500 RPM fast issue when the timing is set right. I'm using a timing light and you can see the dots on the pulley line up or not so, it's pretty easy to tell where its at.

The dizzy is installed properly, it's the stock one for that matter.

- Tech
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 12:39 AM
  #21  
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HUmm wow so maybe my friends is just timing and ignition. humm
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
I don't trust my self to do the second gen direct fire yet, I wish someone sold a pre-made kit (i.e. plug and play) they would make good money off of idiots like me.

I'll break open a tranny and rebuild it, I'll break open an engine and rebuild it but get me away from electrical connections because I screw too much up (I build computers on the side so I know a lot about electrical, I don't like soldering and what not, takes too much time).

- Tech
Dude, the 2nd gen ignition mod is a breeze! It took me like 20 minutes to do it, and most of that was just deciding where I wanted to mount the new coil pack. It really smoothed out my idle, better gas mileage, and a bit more power too...
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 09:34 AM
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I hope your father does not have so much trouble with his GSL as you get on your se. Perhaps you could persuade the gremlins to swop cars for a while unless the rotary god has placed a curse on the whole family.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 12:14 PM
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I swear they have, the GSL runs, but it's not getting enough fuel, if you try and give it the gas it'll rev high as you want it but then it won't idle because theres not enough to fill up even the fuel filter.

It's got a brand new fuel pump on it too btw.

- Tech
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 12:20 PM
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Hey Tech what kind of strut do you have in your 7?
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