cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

i'm really close to finishing up my s4 swap in my GSL-SE...

prior to today, i was having three problems:

1. i had a 20a fuse popping when i turned the key into the ON position. it was the 2nd one in on the left column of the fuse block.

2. no voltage at the coils with the keyin ON

3. engine temp gauge shoots instantly to the far right side (HOT!!!) even though i haven't even started the engine yet, so it could not even almost be hot.

today i disconnected all the electrical from the engine and reconnected one by one, each time checking the fuse to see if it'll blow. didn't blow. that appears to be solved, however i have no idea how.

so now i'm down to the remaining two issues. no juice to the coils, and the engine temp gauge goes >>>>>>>>>>.

i'm starting to get pretty frustrated with this thing and was hoping some of you would have some advice.

i'm using the SE computer and electronics and have removed the rats nest and disabled the BAC (i plan to run a slightly higher idle if i need to).

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Well, the coils get their power from the engine fuse, so if it is blown, then you won't have power. If the temp sensor wiring is grounded, it will go to H as you indicated.

Make sure the coil + wires are not touching the frame or anything. The coil + also connects to both ignitors and the condensor (silver cylinder on the dizzy). Basically, I would check this area first.

It would be any of the sensors doing it (causing the fuse to blow). The injectors get their power directly from a fusible link, so they can't be the cause.

That circuit powers the coils, condensor, ignitors, fuel pump, solenoids, and the plug in the back of the alt.

Double check to make sure the fuse isn't blown. If it is intact, you should have power. If the fuse is good, and you are getting power on this circuit (turn key to 'ON' and push open the AFM door. You should hear the fuel pump running) except for the coils/ignitors, then you need to look at the main relay (maybe damaged or unplugged).

Do any of the other gauges peg or just the coolant temp?

Kent

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

it's only the coolant temp gauge that pegs. i'm not entirely sure which sensor feeds the gauge. i've been told it's the one in the engine iron under the oil filler neck, however i cannot seem to locate a sensor in the iron on the filler neck side of the engine. there are two sensors that appear to go into the oil pan. would one of those be it?

i double-checked the fuse block -- all the fuses are intact. i also checked all the fusible links for continuity and they all check out. is the engine fuse located in the fuse block or elsewhere? also, how can you test the main relay - i wouldn't mind eliminating that possibility...

to be honest, i'm about to plug in the FC CAS and save up for a microtech.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Yes, the coolant temp sensor is the one next to the oil pressure sender under the oil filter on the rear housing.

I believe the fuse that you had blowing is the engine fuse (20 amp). Double check that fuse, then do what I said about checking the fuel pump operation. If the fuel pump works, but there is still no power to the coils, then it may be the main relay or wiring to the coils. There is a group of relays on the inner fender by the firewall on the driver's side. I believe the main relay has two black cylinders on it. It will have the following connections (two plugs):



Unplug the connectors and turn the key on. You should have power at the W, WL, and both BW terminals (on the harness end). The two B connections should have continuity with ground. The remaining two connections are outputs (1 for the ECU, 1 for the injectors and coils). If there is no power to the BW wires, the engine fuse is probably blown. If there is no power to either the W or WL wires, the problem is likely a fusible link. The links in question are the two links in the extra fusible link block that the SE has but the non-SE don't .

If you have power to those 4 wires and the 2 black wires are grounded, then maybe it is the relay. Plug the relay back in. When the key is turned on, you should hear a 'click'. Take your voltmeter and measure the voltage on the two remaining wires (RW and BY). This is with the key on and the relay connected. They should both see battery voltage. If not, the relay is shot. The BY one is the one that powers the coils, igniters, and injectors.

Hope this gives you a good starting point. I may be going to the BBQ in August. If you don't have it figured out by then, maybe I can come over and help you sort it out. Good luck.

Kent

hammmy

Lemme know if you need someone to come over and look at the engine bay and say, "What the heck could it be?". I'm pretty good with that.

Seriously, any night but Thursday this week I can come over. Next weekend too.

-dave

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

yeah i plan to go out there sometime this week; probably tues or wed to scope out the items gslse addict recommended.

when i get that running i can stop driving the xterra around. i hate big cars.