there is way too much wrong information on this tread is a noob were to look at it they would think they could jbweld there carb and throw boost at it.

It should be deleted and re done.

 

^^^agreed

 

agreed, it needs cleaned up. I just posted what I thought would work, i was getting to the point of trying it myself, with what I thought, and posting my results. I have a few extra carbs... thanks again bad 83, you da man!

 

thanks for sharing........

 

the FIRST step in any turbo cab application is MATH, you need to know the compression ratio's and CFM engine draw at all rpm's in order to get the jetting and accelerator pump that will apply for your engine. sence there is no fuel injection there is no base map for you to follow.
after all the math is done you will need to seal the carb internally wich means o rings special gaskets and a bunch more math after this for propper sealing and fuel delivery.

I still think we should entertain the idea of coaxing robert into a group buy of ether boost prepped nikkis, or a boost prep rebuil kit for the nikki, it would just be easier to copy someones work then to try and work it out outrselves.

 

Thanks bad 83, good of you to post that. Now we don't have to do these speculation threads anymore.

 

Perfect!

 

Let's now start a list of a turbo kit you could easily piece together!
Wideband gauge (tuning purposes)
boost prepped nikki
water meth injection or intercooler. which ever you prefer.
turbo manifold (TII will it work??)
TII turbo (what's the size of the stock turbo??)
downpipe?? (will TII bolt up to stock exhaust of the 12a??)
boost gauge

I think that's about it? Feel free to add more. We should edit this thread with all the correct info.

 

which means your post should probably be deleted..

 

Archive this

There is a lot more to it guys. First. Timing needs to be addressed. Locked dizzy set to 10* leading 15* trailing. Also spark needs to be addressed. At a minimum you need to use a direct fire second gen leading coil. BUR9EQ plugs all around.

Second. Fuel supply needs to be addressed. A Walbro 255 is a good inexpensive choice. You will have to run a rising rate return style fuel pressure regulator. As far as I know, Aeromotive is the only choice. AE-13202. You will need to run a return line from the fuel regulator (at least 3/8 diameter) back to the top of the tank. This mean dropping the fual tank, drilling and tapping the top of the tank for the return fitting.

The carb obviously needs to be boost prepped.

If you decide to use a stock S4 or S5 turbo, it will not clear the lower 12A lower intake. You will have to make a spacer/adapter from a 12a and 13b exhaust flanges. The best bet is to use an aftermarket 13b tubular manifold and aftermarket turbo. You will have to slot the holes on the mounting flange a bit.

Then you have to address oil supply and return. You will need an oil filter block to have an easy access to run a -4an supply line to the turbo. Then you will have to drill and tap the front cover for the oil return line. This line has to be at least a -10an.

There is always more to it. I hope this addresses the "have to" points. Here is my build thread https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/project-updates-553481/

 

Mallory 4309 is a good and inexpensive RRFPR. That's what I and many others use and it works great.

This might not be necessary depending on your setup. I'm running my Weber at 4.25 PSI base pressure, and a 5/16" return line reducing to 1/4" to go into the tank is enough to keep my fuel pressure stable. However, if Nikkis like a lower base pressure, then you may indeed need to drop the tank as you said.

 

Why use a RR FPR? just use a boost referenced one.

*edit*

Ok after looking up the 4309 I get what's going on here, and since we want to archive this I'm clearing something up:

that is not a rising rate FPR. the 4309 is a normal FPR with a boost reference line. That is what you want. For every pound of boost, the FPR ups fuel pressure 1lb so the pressure differential between the fuel and the intake remains the same. the ratio is 1:1

A RRFPR is something that ups the fuel something more, like 3:1 or 5:1, that is, for every pound of boost, in the intake, the regulator ups the fuel pressure 3 or 5 psi. this is for crude injected setups, to make stock injectors flow more fuel. Similar to what most dry nitrous kits do.

You do not want a RRFPR for your application. In general, RRFPR's are a poor way to tune. Almost any quality FPR will do the 1:1 boost reference. The trick here is finding one that operates at carb pressures (<10psi) as most are for injectors. but 10minutes in jegs or summit, and bam.

Edit #2:

And while I'm dropping science, I figure I'd mention this. bad 83 was correct in recommending a walbro 255, but why you ask? the fuel pump needs to be able to put out enough fuel pressure to supply the base fuel pressure (usually 3-5psi for carbs) PLUS whatever boost you run. so that means 15psi for 10psi of boost, 25psi for 20psi of boost. What this boils down to, is many carb fuel pumps will put out enough flow, but not at a high enough pressure once boost is taken into account. If you run a fuel injection based pump, which will easily operate at 40-50 psi, it will supply all the pressure you could ask for, then you use your regulator to drop it down to what the carb actually wants to see.

 

yes gentelman this is a noob here and this should be deleted.
1. wideband......whatever
2. Nikki boost prepped not worth it get a demon blow through bolt on not work.
3. you CAN NOT run a intercooler on a blow through set up you will kill you car and yourself.
4. the 13 manifold will not bolt up to the 12a, racing beat has the holley manifold that will fit all standard carb size like holley and demon.
4. best turbo is to use the stock t2
5. down pipe is easy use stock, and any shop can build one.
6. boost gauge thats about all you got right.

ok your dumb. you need to learn more about turbo systems and then start learning about the turbo rotary engines after you get familiar with both of these stop and do it again.

I gave you noobs a easy out and listed all the things you would need to turbo your 12a and even were to get them.

SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH. READ READ READ. repeat!

 

Don't post harsh things like this when many of your points are wrong.

2: this thread is specifically about nikkis, want to use something different, GTFO
3: Absolutely wrong. Perhaps you meant drawthrough?
4: ??? Maybe if you like 250hp max

Yes he's pretty clueless, but so was that post and at least he's polite

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=demon+carb

ALL NOOBS MUST LOOK

 

blow through doesnt need intercooler fuel will build in the intercooler and make a bomb

 

How? Fuel goes nowhere near the IC in the blowthrough. As I said, I think you meant drawthrough. Noob

And why the hell would I drop 600 on a carb when I can build a megasquirt for that? Nikki blowthrough is attractive because it's cheap parts you already have. If you spend money, go injected, it's MILES ahead.

 

Yes, you're absolutely right. Sorry, I was being sloppy with my terminology.

Man_in_black49464: Please stop posting if you don't even know what blow-through means. And this thread is about Nikkis, not Demons/Holleys/whatever.

Yeah, I think this thread needs a good trashing and redoing. Too much misleading and downright false info here.

 

^^^Right. I think Man in Black reversed the terms. Blow through pressurizes the air before it enters the carb. Drawthrough pressurizes the air after it's been mixed with fuel.

 

I think I am going to lock this thread. Too many "experts" posting seriously wrong information. (This means you man in black, stofficer1226, and others)

Only post details of a blow through turbo system - if you have successfully done it, on a running car. Listen to Bad83.

Otherwise, you are just rehashing **** you've read somewhere,
incorrectly, I might add.

 

Thank you ^

 

so what is incorrect about my list? It's the basic things needed to do a basic turbo setup? What am I missing besides a post count??

 

You arn't very literate are you?
Wideband whatever? Are you kidding me? You want to pressurize a motor without knowing the EXACT A/F ratio?!
We just discussed that the nikki carb is worth boost prepping do to it's low cost.
Why would I use the 13b intake manifold? I said the TII turbo manifold. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold, Cheif.
I was referring to a blow through set up, not a draw through set up.

You arn't one to tell me that I am dumb. You might be more fimilar with the turbo rotarys and maybe rotarys in general. But I have been around non OEM and OEM turbo cars for a while. I have built several stage 3 Audi S4s making 400whp. A 350whp VR6 turbo Jetta. A turbo r32. Helped turbo a RB26 in a 240. I am not unfamiliar with turbo set ups. Just with a turbo carb setup. Which is why I jumped into this thread. Because people were throwing around some good info that is hard to come by. (the nikki turbo carb) I am still wondering why you are so quick to through out the wideband... Leaning out a motor at 7,000 rpms wont be an issue at all right....

**I don't want to start a bitch fight, but I feel like I should atleast defend myself because I don't see what was so incorrect about my previous post. Can you use the stock 13b exhaust turbo manifold. I will gladly search it.

 

If you slot the holes it will bolt to the block. However, the turbo will hit the stock intake manifold (or any other 12A intake manifold that I'm aware of, for that matter). You have to space it up and away or forward and away (the idler arm is also kind of in an inconvenient spot).

 

My only addition to this thread is a helpful link with some useful information regarding turbocharging for a rotary.

http://www.mazdarotary.net/turbo.htm