RX7TR7

I recently rebuilt my Nikki and Ive been using the car since. Im trying to get it right and have a few questions. First the carb is an 82, so It has only a mixture screw and a throttle screw.

The tuning instructions in the manual seem kind of vague. Set the mixture screw 3 turns out and tighten the throttle screw all the way and back out 6 1/2 turns. Raise the idle until it is at 750 then unscrew the mixture screw for highest idle and then adjust the throttle screw for 750rpm. Coming from a piston engine background that just doesnt seem right. Im used to using a vacuum gauge and looking for highest steady vacuum.

Next when its warm and the choke is off it stalls going around right turns above 10 mph. If I tap the gas pedal, or accelerate through the turn it will stay running.

Also how do I adjust the choke rpm. If I pull my choke out all the way with the car cold. When I start the car it shoots up to around 4000 rpm. it may go higher but I dont want to rev the crap out of a cold motor so I push the cable in fast and when its out like a 1/2 inch its at 2000 rpm cold. Some times on a real cold day the car wont start with the cable pulled out 1/2 way so I pull it out completely but then its revving way to high.

Last question, the previous owner turned the nut down all the way on the accelerator pump rod, I left it like that. Why would he do that?

If you guys can help me with those 4 questions I may finally have this thing running right.

wankel=awesome

You can get away with adjusting your mixture screw for highest vac at idle, but as you get higher vac, your idle speed will rise a bit. I think Mazda instructed it that way to sort of be idiot proof so people were driving around with a 1000 rpm idle just because they started at 750 rpm before a mixture adjustment...

Float adjustment. Thats your cornering issue. Should be the middle of the sight glass on both sides of the carb.

iirc my nikki had a similar fast idle adjustment. I never bothered to mess with it. It just takes some getting used to.

On the accel pump, It should be adjusted to have an "air gap" when the pedal is fully down. I dont know the spec for the Nikki, but he may have just been playing with it.

I know on most carbs the clearance for the pump is tiny at WOT. in the .010" - .015" range.

RX7TR7

My rear float is actually dead even with the knotches in the sight glass and the front is just a hair below the knotches. Do you think the rear should be just below also?

What do you mean by an air gap?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the factory idle adjustment has emissions in mind too. in the real world, you can leave the speed screw alone, and adjust the mixture screw to best vacuum, and then a tad richer. (like 1/16th of a turn).

wankel=awesome

Its just an adjustment from the factory to ensure the pump diaphragm isnt stretched to its maximum limit at WOT. This way you dont destroy the pump after a few thousand miles haha.

RX7TR7

So is that the clearance between the pump lever and the diaphragm? When its at rest?