prophetjohn

iTrader: (1)

I am running an 83 12a and carb hooked into a 79 chassis, both were MT but the 83 may have been from California. i have an odd dead spot in throttle response coming from idle to WOT. if i go WOT it will die, but if i gradually increase until the primaries take over from the idle circuit, it will go to WOT just fine. i have been staring at the two wiring diagrams and their differences for about 2 weeks now. and i cant seem to reconcile the differences. most of the headache im getting is that the 83 has a throttle sensor, but my ecu does not have any leads for that. i am questioning if any of the carb or emissions is wired correctly at this point. it runs pretty well once the hesitation point is past, but it backfires when i let the off the throttle with the clutch in while changing gears. also in low rpm cruising, the hesitation is noticeable if you go from 2k cruising in 3rd, and give it more throttle.
i should note that the coasting valve has been blocked from intake by a plug in the hose running to the air cleaner housing. removing the plug allows air to freely enter the valve (valve is good) and the engine will run on one rotor(poorly).

i have 3 carbs, but only one good one(its on it right now) and an entire 83fb parts car (totaled). i used the engine harness from the 83 when i swapped motors because it was in much better condition. but the old wiring harness which was on it when i got the car (also had an 82-83 12a in it) is all sorts of different from the book. wires have been replaced and arent the right color, grounds have been spliced...its a mess. thats why i went with the 83s harness, but i wasnt planning on there being this much of a difference.

so i am looking for suggestions. anyone with experience swapping a newer motor into a 12a, i need your help.

i have all ready removed my alternator regulator as it wasnt needed any more, and the coils appear to be wired correctly. now i am wondering if a rats nest/emissions removal is my best bet, or swapping the ecu from the fb (the chassis wiring harness is ripped apart at the front due to the damage from a tree), or if there is a trick to the newer nikki so i can get it to transition to the primary circuit without falling on its face.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Have you rebuilt the carb? It sounds as if what I think is called the 'transition circuit' is blocked. It happened to me after my first rebuild. I took the rebuilt carb apart again and squirted carb cleaner through all the passages and that cleared it up.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

either that or the accelerator pump isn't functioning.

the ecu and wiring really only runs the emission controls, most notably the air control valve, to control where the air pump air goes, and the vacuum advance solenoid

prophetjohn

iTrader: (1)

thats what i was thinking cookboy, we may be correct. also i do not have a richer solenoid...no threads to put one in either... just a hole that looks blocked off on the inside,