xxxHondaGuyxxx

Ok people...

Who makes a good 1st gen front strut tower brace, and where can I buy one?

Perhaps someone can post pics of some? Or comments from people with one installed......

inittab

http://ca.geocities.com/farmz1ca/RX7_Strut_Bars.html



Here's some being sold on eBay right now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33591

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33591

12aPwr

http://www.rotorhead.ca/catalogue.ph...ory=suspension

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

I think those look, kinda shady sorry but I have a freind that I will trust to make mine, they just look , well um kinda cheap. I could make one like that myself for less than 5 bucks

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

yea but those are hella uglee

Manntis

I know the open ends don't meet the 'bling bling' that some of you go for, but shady? Less than $5?

Considering there are nice, shiny ones on the market (with pivot points, so they can collapse and do ****-all but look pretty) I guess there are alternatives...

Rx7carl

Dont sweat it Manntis, those are the best bang for the buck from what I can tell. Im probably gonna dump my RB PITA, heavy ***, cant work on the engine around it one, and get one of those.

inittab

I like the way they look.... they're simple and befitting for the 1st Gen that they go into. However I don't think they'd look at home in an FD.

JDuncan

iTrader: (3)

I have one, that I bought off ebay last year. I can't really tell a big difference with it on there. It is made well enough, and Mike, let me know if you wanna take a closer look at it to see how it would work for your application. I agree that this style would look out of place in a 3rd gen.

JDuncan

iTrader: (3)

Ran outside and snapped a shot. BRRRR!



Yes, I know I need to clean my engine bay!

rhinor61

I find this strut bar to look good and it works great.

For $159 at www.rx-7.com


John

Northern 7

iTrader: (3)

I had one of the CP racing bars on my last car ('83) and it was solid and functional (if not that pretty). From what I've seen, it's the best bang for the buck -

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

ok, maybe it would cost me about 10 bucks... Id make mine out of chromoly... I have a mig welder and the pipes I could pick up locally for about nothing...

Sorry I said anyhting, they probally are good for middle of the road performance part.. But I feel that I could make one like that for cheap... some of you guys may not have the tools I have here Oh well $100 isnt too bad for someones time in making them...

NanaimoRx-7

Next time I have money, I'm getting one. Wait, I mean, next time I have money after I finish the struts/springs/poly, new tires, Dell'orto carb I'm getting one. Or maybe after I get a flywheel, hmm, the point is...it's on the list...somewhere.

JDuncan

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't pay 100 bucks for the cp racing bar. I paid 50 for mine and 18 in shipping by ebay auction last year. Definitely not a high on the list upgrade priority either. Mike, you just make sure you get my car built right, whatever you do, because when you get bored of it, I might just finally have the money to drive down there and buy it.


Almost forgot an important question... Anyone with one of these style strut bars running GC Caster Camber plates? It looks like I will be changing the 80 over to coilovers out front and would like to retain the strut bar, but am unable to find out if it will interfere with the mounting of the caster camber plates.

Thanks,
James

Manntis

Mark VIII, yours is the 2 point type. It currently goes for $79.95 (the 4-point triangulated is the $99.95 model)

JDuncan

iTrader: (3)

I autocross my car regularly, and can't really consider the "4 Point" or tri-angulated style is not legal for the class I compete in. Those ties to the firewall are all it takes to push my stock port car into one of the prepared or mod classes where I would get my butt handed to me on a silver platter. Something to think about if you drive your car in SCCA autox competitions.

And call me James. I have tried 4 times to get my username changed on here and you can tell how successful I have been. When I first joined, I used the same username that I had used on the only other forum I used at the time. Of course, my Mark VIII has been gone for almost a year now.

Rotary13B1

iTrader: (8)

Well here's mine in my SE. It's the white RB triangulated one. What I "feel" in the car when driving is less "flexing" in the front of the body when turning. It kinda stiffens up the whole front of the chassis.

Rota_Motor

hmm, I am very interested in getting a strutbar made up by one of my friends, will be able to do it fairly cheap I think

also just a point of interest to '95 Mark VIII, what carb setup are you using on the car in that pic?

JDuncan

iTrader: (3)

Rotary Engineering dual downdraft with two Weber 36DCD carbs. They were my Christmas gift from the wife.

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

that's because you drive too slow .

Gregs

wouldnt it make a difference in taking hard corners... not driving fast...
unless it involved driving fast while taking hard corners

-greg

Gregs

looking closely at the 2 point bar
with my dads wirefeed welder, it looks like i could make one very easily for mad cheap

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

last time i checked. i wouldn't call the 7 a massive straight line performer, much less the 12a 1st gen. james autox's too, so he should definitely be able to tell if it has any difference.

xxxHondaGuyxxx

Hmmm..
How much for that white RB triangulated one? And, where can I find one?