Hummel206

Hi Gents,

Newbie here. Bought an RX7 in boxes, bridgeported and assembled the engine, first start up today. Now to the adjustment and to be honest I'm a little lost here.

First before we dive into Nikki I reckon we could start with Ignition ?

- There is absolutly none of the so called "rat-nest" left. How do you suggest I hooked up the Vacum ? DO I even connect them or just leave them?
- Is there anything I should/could do with the distributor to ease the performance of the engine ? Weights, springs, lock it ? Etc. ?
- And what is recommend for timing ? Both spark same? Leading what, trailing what ? I know there is alot of opinions, but I have to start somewhere

After I hopefully set the ignition at a point where it should be OK, I will need to adjust the Nikki for a Bridgeported engine without the "Rat-Nest" Is it even possible to get a stock Nikki to run on a Bridgeported engine ?

- I've got the engine started and ended up with adjustning the idle on screw on the side of the carb (See picture) This open the butterfly to alove the engine to run, otherwise it would die straigt away.
-The other two screw on the "front" of the carb is for Idle mixture and idle speed right? But I reckon there is not enough vacuum from the bridge to get this system to work ? Or? Am I doing something wrong ?
-I plugged alot of lines to try to simplify it, I need the two outlet from the engine hooked up, Do they both go to the top of the airfilter housing ?

The plan I a weber in the future, but I need this to run to be able to get it through MOT.

Any opinionsm, thoughts is welcome.




Two screws in the middle of the picture for Idle control Right?

This little flat headed screw allowed me to open the throttle to let the engine idle.

Where two connect these two ?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

so if you gave that to me, i would start with the ignition stock, and the carb stock and go from there.
on the stock setup the vacuum advance is on the front nipple of the carb spacer thing i think, but if the car is going to get raced, you don't need it. you also might want to get it dialed in better before hooking it up.
once the fuel is dialed in, you might try different timing, but stock timing is probably pretty close

on any carb the idle mixture only really works when the throttle plate is next to the idle hole. so if you open the throttle more to get more air, the idle mixture screw will gradually stop working.
the mixture control then becomes the idle jet itself.
actually on your carb there is an air bleed and a fuel mixture, its worth playing with those and see if you can get the idle speed back in range so the mixture works again
blue is the air green is the fuel


and then the last pic, in the stock setup one of those went to the charcoal canister, and the other went to like a PCV valve and then the air cleaner. good place for a catch can too

Hummel206

[QUOTE=j9fd3s;12556190]so if you gave that to me, i would start with the ignition stock, and the carb stock and go from there.
on the stock setup the vacuum advance is on the front nipple of the carb spacer thing i think, but if the car is going to get raced, you don't need it. you also might want to get it dialed in better before hooking it up.
once the fuel is dialed in, you might try different timing, but stock timing is probably pretty close

This is not supposed to be raced... Yet So I would like the vacumm to be connected, also the engine smooths out really nice when I try to create vacum on those two connection.

Do I just run one vacum line to the front niplle and split that one to both Diaprams ?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

Mazda did different things depending on the year/market. i think they used the same nipple for both, but then they have a solenoid or two to be able to turn them off
you might just try one or both and see what the thing likes.

the neat part about a big port is that if the engine isn't happy, it will let you know
once you make it happy, it'll will basically run like a stock car

Hummel206

Okay, now I tried to figure out the ignition first, and allready there I got confused

I thought This was the procedure:

- I found TDC by opening the cover on the right side of the engine and align the couterweight on the flywheel.
- I then marked the front pulley every 5 degrees up until 25.
- I then started the car with vacum and all attached, steady RPM past 4000RPM and set the leading to 24 BTDC
- I then switch for trailing and tried to pull the lowest Diaphram on the picture(the one with slotted bolt holes) and nothing happend. The ignition was closed to the same as leading.

then I got confused, tried leading again and it turns out the Diaphram was adjusting the Leading ??? Where have I fucked up ? I switched sparkplug wires and then I could set it for Leading 24 BTDC and trailing 5 BTDC, but I would really like to have it the correct way arouynd instead.

Could it be my wiring to the coils ?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lol its a brain teaser but i guess you could have a coil/ignitor mixed up!

in the stock car the trailing coil is the front one, which i've always found odd.

i forget which ignitor is which

Toruki

Front igniter is leading, the one near the alternator is trailing. Can't believe I get to tell you something about rotaries!