New (used) engine in. Won't stay running.
06-20-11, 02:41 PM
#28
-Jim
Another question: I pushed in the clutch pedal. Hydraulics all actuated correctly. Clutch did not disengage. Bad clutch? (Same throwout bearing, etc. from old motor)
-Jim
06-21-11, 01:00 PM
#29
Lives on the Forum
I'll PM you my #
Hm, did you actually see the slave cylinder move the fork thingy? Not sure what that means off the top of my head. Jeff20b could tell you...
Hm, did you actually see the slave cylinder move the fork thingy? Not sure what that means off the top of my head. Jeff20b could tell you...
06-27-11, 09:58 AM
#30
So I had a minute to fart around with my FB yesterday. I put in fresh BR8EQ14's, turned the idle speed screw out 3.5 turns from fully seated, the idle mixture screw ~2 turns, gave her two pumps of the pedal and she fired right off. The tach was at about 4k rpm with the choke pulled, and so I let her warm up. She still won't stay running, and when I try and give her a bit of gas, I can hear air being ingested into the motor, but she won't increase RPM's.
I can get the RPM's to increase with a tiny bit of throttle, but that's the only way. This is really bothering me.
Does anyone have suggestions for initial idle mixture and idle speed settings?
Thanks
-Jim
I can get the RPM's to increase with a tiny bit of throttle, but that's the only way. This is really bothering me.
Does anyone have suggestions for initial idle mixture and idle speed settings?
Thanks
-Jim
06-27-11, 10:52 AM
#31
From Sterlings website:
* Step 1. Adjust the Deceleration Dashpot and the AC Idle Compensation Valve so that they are not interfering with the primary throttle operation.
* Step 2, Open the primary valves to get the engine running on the main circuit by turning the PTS in. (81½-85 & SMW modified Nikkis only.)
* Step 3. Set the IFA to 1½ turns out from closed. (Never bear down on this screw to tighten!)
* Step 4. Set the Idle Air screw to 1¼ turns out from closed on a stock Nikki, or ¼ turns from closed on an SMW modified Nikki. (...if you have one on your carburetor.)
* Step 5, Start the engine, reduce the engine RPM using the IAA / PTS screw, and let it warm up.
* Step 6, Turn the IAA screw in on pre - 81½ Nikkis, or the PTS out on post - 81½ Nikkis, until the engine almost shuts off. (This will lower the engine RPM.)
* Step 7. Turn the IFA in, in ¼ turn increments, waiting 2 seconds after each change, until the engine starts to skip. (This will raise the engine RPM.)
* Step 8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 until the desired idle speed is achieved. (Usually this is between 750 & 850 RPM.)
* Step 9. Back the IFA out less than ¼ turn to ensure that the idle is not too lean. (This may require readjusting the Idle Speed screw first.)
* Step 10. Readjust the Deceleration Dashpot and the AC Idle Compensation Valve.
* Step 1. Adjust the Deceleration Dashpot and the AC Idle Compensation Valve so that they are not interfering with the primary throttle operation.
* Step 2, Open the primary valves to get the engine running on the main circuit by turning the PTS in. (81½-85 & SMW modified Nikkis only.)
* Step 3. Set the IFA to 1½ turns out from closed. (Never bear down on this screw to tighten!)
* Step 4. Set the Idle Air screw to 1¼ turns out from closed on a stock Nikki, or ¼ turns from closed on an SMW modified Nikki. (...if you have one on your carburetor.)
* Step 5, Start the engine, reduce the engine RPM using the IAA / PTS screw, and let it warm up.
* Step 6, Turn the IAA screw in on pre - 81½ Nikkis, or the PTS out on post - 81½ Nikkis, until the engine almost shuts off. (This will lower the engine RPM.)
* Step 7. Turn the IFA in, in ¼ turn increments, waiting 2 seconds after each change, until the engine starts to skip. (This will raise the engine RPM.)
* Step 8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 until the desired idle speed is achieved. (Usually this is between 750 & 850 RPM.)
* Step 9. Back the IFA out less than ¼ turn to ensure that the idle is not too lean. (This may require readjusting the Idle Speed screw first.)
* Step 10. Readjust the Deceleration Dashpot and the AC Idle Compensation Valve.
06-27-11, 11:46 AM
#32
From Sterlings website:
* Step 1. Adjust the Deceleration Dashpot and the AC Idle Compensation Valve so that they are not interfering with the primary throttle operation.
* Step 2, Open the primary valves to get the engine running on the main circuit by turning the PTS in. (81½-85 & SMW modified Nikkis only.)
* Step 3. Set the IFA to 1½ turns out from closed. (Never bear down on this screw to tighten!)
* Step 4. Set the Idle Air screw to 1¼ turns out from closed on a stock Nikki, or ¼ turns from closed on an SMW modified Nikki. (...if you have one on your carburetor.)
* Step 5, Start the engine, reduce the engine RPM using the IAA / PTS screw, and let it warm up.
* Step 6, Turn the IAA screw in on pre - 81½ Nikkis, or the PTS out on post - 81½ Nikkis, until the engine almost shuts off. (This will lower the engine RPM.)
* Step 7. Turn the IFA in, in ¼ turn increments, waiting 2 seconds after each change, until the engine starts to skip. (This will raise the engine RPM.)
* Step 8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 until the desired idle speed is achieved. (Usually this is between 750 & 850 RPM.)
* Step 9. Back the IFA out less than ¼ turn to ensure that the idle is not too lean. (This may require readjusting the Idle Speed screw first.)
* Step 10. Readjust the Deceleration Dashpot and the AC Idle Compensation Valve.
* Step 1. Adjust the Deceleration Dashpot and the AC Idle Compensation Valve so that they are not interfering with the primary throttle operation.
* Step 2, Open the primary valves to get the engine running on the main circuit by turning the PTS in. (81½-85 & SMW modified Nikkis only.)
* Step 3. Set the IFA to 1½ turns out from closed. (Never bear down on this screw to tighten!)
* Step 4. Set the Idle Air screw to 1¼ turns out from closed on a stock Nikki, or ¼ turns from closed on an SMW modified Nikki. (...if you have one on your carburetor.)
* Step 5, Start the engine, reduce the engine RPM using the IAA / PTS screw, and let it warm up.
* Step 6, Turn the IAA screw in on pre - 81½ Nikkis, or the PTS out on post - 81½ Nikkis, until the engine almost shuts off. (This will lower the engine RPM.)
* Step 7. Turn the IFA in, in ¼ turn increments, waiting 2 seconds after each change, until the engine starts to skip. (This will raise the engine RPM.)
* Step 8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 until the desired idle speed is achieved. (Usually this is between 750 & 850 RPM.)
* Step 9. Back the IFA out less than ¼ turn to ensure that the idle is not too lean. (This may require readjusting the Idle Speed screw first.)
* Step 10. Readjust the Deceleration Dashpot and the AC Idle Compensation Valve.
06-27-11, 12:35 PM
#33
Note for myself for the next time that I work on my FB:
Check the vacuum advance lines going to the dizzy. Make sure that the single line coming off of the carb base plate is plugged into one of the two rearward-most nipples, so that the dizzy isn't receiving a vacuum signal at idle. The vacuum advance will be working if the dizzy is seeing vacuum signal at idle.
Check the vacuum advance lines going to the dizzy. Make sure that the single line coming off of the carb base plate is plugged into one of the two rearward-most nipples, so that the dizzy isn't receiving a vacuum signal at idle. The vacuum advance will be working if the dizzy is seeing vacuum signal at idle.
06-27-11, 01:38 PM
#34
Lives on the Forum
I've always used the nipple farthest forward (assuming no emissions and Nikki carb). That one only sees vacuum during acceleration, when you want the vac advance to work.
The stock location will show vacuum at idle, so if you've removed emissions then that vacuum will go straight to the dizzy and mess with your idle settings. Plus, once you start to accelerate, you lose the vac advance right when you need it most.
When setting up a carb for the first time, I would leave it disconnected until everything is working, just to avoid having any potential interference with your tuning.
The stock location will show vacuum at idle, so if you've removed emissions then that vacuum will go straight to the dizzy and mess with your idle settings. Plus, once you start to accelerate, you lose the vac advance right when you need it most.
When setting up a carb for the first time, I would leave it disconnected until everything is working, just to avoid having any potential interference with your tuning.
06-27-11, 02:54 PM
#35
I've always used the nipple farthest forward (assuming no emissions and Nikki carb). That one only sees vacuum during acceleration, when you want the vac advance to work.
The stock location will show vacuum at idle, so if you've removed emissions then that vacuum will go straight to the dizzy and mess with your idle settings. Plus, once you start to accelerate, you lose the vac advance right when you need it most.
When setting up a carb for the first time, I would leave it disconnected until everything is working, just to avoid having any potential interference with your tuning.
The stock location will show vacuum at idle, so if you've removed emissions then that vacuum will go straight to the dizzy and mess with your idle settings. Plus, once you start to accelerate, you lose the vac advance right when you need it most.
When setting up a carb for the first time, I would leave it disconnected until everything is working, just to avoid having any potential interference with your tuning.
06-28-11, 10:09 AM
#38
Lives on the Forum
Throw it on a trailer and drag it over this weekend. You can race my car, and we'll work on yours. Should be a good half dozen rotorheads hanging around my place this weekend...
06-28-11, 03:44 PM
#40
Lives on the Forum
No problem! The wife is taking the kids camping this weekend, so I've got the place to myself starting Friday afternoon. Got two empty bedrooms now for company to use. 
07-08-11, 01:55 PM
#43
So, out of curiosity: there is an electrical connection on the passenger side of the carb. I unhooked that (because that was the only thing still connected to that sub-harness) and removed the whole harness. This won't have any affect on the way the motor is running, will it?
Thanks
-Jim
Thanks
-Jim
07-09-11, 03:01 PM
#44
Motor just locked solid on me. No clue what happened. I'm going to pull the starter and see if that's just stuck, but it looks like time for a new motor again.
I have one lined up about 20 minutes from my parents house for $60 from a guy who used to race a GT-3 RX-7 in SCCA competition, so hopefully this one is a bit better.
I have one lined up about 20 minutes from my parents house for $60 from a guy who used to race a GT-3 RX-7 in SCCA competition, so hopefully this one is a bit better.
07-11-11, 10:45 AM
#47
Lives on the Forum
If you tear it down, let me know what you find. I might have a good rotor and a useable housing. Maybe we've got enough parts to put together another motor.
You've got about a month until the Lansing event (August 6th/7th)
You've got about a month until the Lansing event (August 6th/7th)
07-16-11, 09:21 AM
#49
So I picked up my "used" motor off of CL last night. It turns out that the nephew of the guy whom I purchased it from had rebuilt it (under his supervision) from the best parts of 6 engines that they tore down.
The guy I purchased it from raced an IT7 for years before switching to a GT3 RX-7. He also gave me a Panhard Bar and a couple of reinforced front lower control arms set up for Heim Joints.
He has a pair of MSD 6a's that I'm thinking about picking up from him in a couple of weeks, and he also has two sets of 4x110 aluminum racing wheels off of his GT3 RX-7 that (if I can find the CL ad) I'd be willing to pick up and ship for someone if they wanted them (I have no $$ for them and no use for them).
I'll put up pics in a bit.
The guy I purchased it from raced an IT7 for years before switching to a GT3 RX-7. He also gave me a Panhard Bar and a couple of reinforced front lower control arms set up for Heim Joints.
He has a pair of MSD 6a's that I'm thinking about picking up from him in a couple of weeks, and he also has two sets of 4x110 aluminum racing wheels off of his GT3 RX-7 that (if I can find the CL ad) I'd be willing to pick up and ship for someone if they wanted them (I have no $$ for them and no use for them).
I'll put up pics in a bit.
07-31-11, 01:23 PM
#50
So I now have my clutch and flywheel installed. I was looking at my intake manifold, and noticed a port that would be normally be covered by the intake manifold. JoeNoble and Chris Muise said that it's the ACV port. I remember Jeff20b saying that he uses Kwik Steel to fill it in. I'll do a search. Picture below.
It also looks like this is a channeled manifold. The primaries and secondaries have channels linking them. Is this one of those high-flow-70's-manifolds that people look for? Pics below.
Any other suggestions? I'm going to rotate the tires on my Impala and start draining fluids from my seized motor.
Thanks
-Jim
It also looks like this is a channeled manifold. The primaries and secondaries have channels linking them. Is this one of those high-flow-70's-manifolds that people look for? Pics below.
Any other suggestions? I'm going to rotate the tires on my Impala and start draining fluids from my seized motor.
Thanks
-Jim