Need some wisdom on my 13b 1st gen swap.
11-22-10, 03:04 PM
#51
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Just collect to a single 2.5", use at least one presilencer and a large-bodied straight-through main muffler. Alternatively, a long-primary system with a presilencer in each primary, again collecting to 2.5". like a clone of the RB "streetport" system. In either case, use only RB .120" wall pipe, especially before the collector. These are setups proven to work well.
11-22-10, 05:08 PM
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As far as the law is concerned, noise isn't an issue in Seattle either, but trust me, the headaches get old after a while if you drive your car any significant distance. If you want to collect to 3", use at minimum an RB "large" universal presilencer as well as their 3" universal muffler. A second presilencer of some sort in front of the rear end would be a very good idea. Racing Beat's website has instructions for how to build the collector as well as suggested primary lengths. Note that you should still use their 2" OD .120" wall pipe for the primaries.
11-22-10, 09:43 PM
#53
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11-23-10, 02:00 AM
#54
I have used both the Ida and the dellorto. The dellorto is a much easier to tune carb and isn't as touchy to temp changes like the weber Ida. I am currently running a half bridge port with the weber. It is goof on the highway but sucks in traffic. I would go with a street port with a delloto. Good power and easy to tune. A wide makes life easy. You will also need a sync tool. Jets. Weber and dellorto jets run about 5 for each jet. I have never tried the holley but jets are very cheap. I know racing beats dellorto and weber setups are a good start from experience. Doing my car and a friends rx 2 13 b street port with a Ida. Remember bigger isn't always better on a street car. I switched the rx 2 from 42 mm venturies to 37 (all I had at the time), he loves the way the car drives now and he doesn't want to retune it. Even though I had him order more jets and 40 venturies. He discovered the car was faster because he now had a boarder power band. As far as chokes the weber starts easy in the cold. I sometimes drive my car to work in the winter. The dellorto started about the same but due to the long intake run it can ice up. Or you could go v8
11-23-10, 06:10 AM
#55
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I have used both the Ida and the dellorto. The dellorto is a much easier to tune carb and isn't as touchy to temp changes like the weber Ida. I am currently running a half bridge port with the weber. It is goof on the highway but sucks in traffic. I would go with a street port with a delloto. Good power and easy to tune. A wide makes life easy. You will also need a sync tool. Jets. Weber and dellorto jets run about 5 for each jet. I have never tried the holley but jets are very cheap. I know racing beats dellorto and weber setups are a good start from experience. Doing my car and a friends rx 2 13 b street port with a Ida. Remember bigger isn't always better on a street car. I switched the rx 2 from 42 mm venturies to 37 (all I had at the time), he loves the way the car drives now and he doesn't want to retune it. Even though I had him order more jets and 40 venturies. He discovered the car was faster because he now had a boarder power band. As far as chokes the weber starts easy in the cold. I sometimes drive my car to work in the winter. The dellorto started about the same but due to the long intake run it can ice up. Or you could go v8
11-23-10, 09:28 AM
#56
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No, v8, thats out of the question.With only 3 options for arb setups alot of research is in order. I realy would like to get as much as your guys input also. After reading on the Weber and finding some good links, my head started to spin. Mostly the tuning part and switcing jets.
i spent at least 3 months looking into the IDA type weber, while playing with mine on the P port.
you need a method. each part of the carb has a different function, and these functions interact with each other. so you need to have a method for changing the parts (jets etc) to see what they do and WHAT THE ENGINE LIKES. your job as a tuner is to get the carburetor to give the engine what it wants
it also helps to keep a journal, so you don't really have to remember what you changed 2 days ago.
11-23-10, 08:05 PM
#58
What is the opinion on buying from Racing Beat or MazdaTrix?? You can get a new IDA for like $375 on ebay compared to almost $600 at RB or MT. Other than getting their jetting do the webers differ at all? You can buy quite a few jets to play with for $225. Do all new IDAs come with the 3rd progression hole?
11-23-10, 10:16 PM
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As per RB's website on their 48 IDA:
From the sounds of it, they don't even mess with the jetting (anymore?).
I believe, though I'm not certain, that all of the Spanish-made IDAs have the third progression hole. I know the DCO(E)s do.
Originally Posted by Racing Beat
This unit is sold as configured by Weber and Racing Beat has performed no modifications to this unit.
I believe, though I'm not certain, that all of the Spanish-made IDAs have the third progression hole. I know the DCO(E)s do.
11-24-10, 09:18 AM
#62
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the other neat thing is if we DID run dual IDA's, we actually would not want them synched, we would want it to act like a 4 barrel.
11-24-10, 10:22 AM
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Okay, so that means either only the newest ones have the third progression hole or I'm mistaken altogether and only DCOs and IDFs have it from the factory. If it doesn't have it, you can drill it yourself. I believe 1mm is the size you need, but ask Hyper4mance2K. I know he drilled his.
But they're on a single throttle shaft. You don't need to synchronize the barrels of a carb if they're on the same shaft. You can't adjust them individually anyway.
But they're on a single throttle shaft. You don't need to synchronize the barrels of a carb if they're on the same shaft. You can't adjust them individually anyway.
11-24-10, 10:25 PM
#64
Okay, so that means either only the newest ones have the third progression hole or I'm mistaken altogether and only DCOs and IDFs have it from the factory. If it doesn't have it, you can drill it yourself. I believe 1mm is the size you need, but ask Hyper4mance2K. I know he drilled his.
But they're on a single throttle shaft. You don't need to synchronize the barrels of a carb if they're on the same shaft. You can't adjust them individually anyway.
But they're on a single throttle shaft. You don't need to synchronize the barrels of a carb if they're on the same shaft. You can't adjust them individually anyway.
11-24-10, 10:50 PM
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I think you're misunderstanding what a carb synchronizer is actually used for. It's simply a vacuum gauge used to set the throttle stops for multiple carb setups. It's not useful for single carburetor applications because both barrels share the same throttle stop.
All that's affected by the idle mixture screws is the amount of fuel metered at idle. Manifold vacuum is not dependent on AFRs, only engine speed and compression, so a carb synchronizer would in no way help you set the idle AFRs. If you were adamant about getting them identical for both rotors, you'd have to use dual widebands, but that's really not necessary. Just turn each of the screws in until the idle drops, then back them both out by the same amount and it'll be close enough as to make no difference.
All that's affected by the idle mixture screws is the amount of fuel metered at idle. Manifold vacuum is not dependent on AFRs, only engine speed and compression, so a carb synchronizer would in no way help you set the idle AFRs. If you were adamant about getting them identical for both rotors, you'd have to use dual widebands, but that's really not necessary. Just turn each of the screws in until the idle drops, then back them both out by the same amount and it'll be close enough as to make no difference.
11-25-10, 08:45 AM
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Wow! Back to the drawing board.Yeh that Holley 465 kicked my butt. I wish someone would post a tuning vid, or wideband tune vid.
12-29-10, 10:47 PM
#72
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The 465 is too small for a 13B, How did the 465 "kick your butt"? The Holley's are the easiest carbs to modify and tune and from Racing Beat they are plug and play.
