1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

need help, what model is this??

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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 04:33 PM
  #26  
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Damn! I think it may be the "bad" leak. Doesn't sound like something I can do myself...any idea of how much it would cost to fix?? Ballpark??
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 05:45 PM
  #27  
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From: St Joe MO
If you are refering to the dreaded dowel pin leak, between the housing and iron at the top of the engine, it rarely happens on the SEs because they have front mount oil coolers. You need to be more specific as to the location of the leak. How many miles on the engine?
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 07:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by trochoid
If you are refering to the dreaded dowel pin leak, between the housing and iron at the top of the engine, it rarely happens on the SEs because they have front mount oil coolers. You need to be more specific as to the location of the leak. How many miles on the engine?
I've seen these leaks on 12A engines in cars prior to the 1983 model year, when Mazda switched from the under-rad design to the infamous beehive arrangement.

While 12As with the beehive ('83 to '85 inclusive) were more prone to these leaks (due to inadequate oil cooling hardening the o-rings sooner), engines with under-rad coolers were by no means immune. This includes the '84 and '85 13B engines found in the GSL-SE--- an engine that was much the same design-wise as the 12A but with larger displacement and better breathing.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 07:14 PM
  #29  
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From: St Joe MO
All of them have the potential for the dowel pin leak. I have a SE that comes into the shop with over 244k on the original engine, it shows no sign of a dowel pin leak. I've had to repair both bungs on the oil cooler due to cracking and one oil line.

Seems like most of the beehive 12As are usually leaking by 150k.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 07:41 PM
  #30  
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Originally Posted by trochoid
All of them have the potential for the dowel pin leak. I have a SE that comes into the shop with over 244k on the original engine, it shows no sign of a dowel pin leak. I've had to repair both bungs on the oil cooler due to cracking and one oil line.

Seems like most of the beehive 12As are usually leaking by 150k.
I've seen this leak on many engines, some of which only had around 120,000 miles (indicated) on the odometer. This condition could certainly be exacerbated by a previously over-heated engine with warped housings, but if that were the case the bigger concern would be coolant seal leaks rather than oil galley o-ring issues.

But I've been pretty fortunate. Having owned six 12A 1st gens (including the two my wife and I still own) I've only had one that had oil galley o-ring leaks. All of these engines had upwards of 150,000 miles (around 240,000 km) on them.

The one I just tore down (due to loss of compression caused by worn rotor oil seals and a severely flaked rear rotor housing) had no leaks whatsoever at an indicated 164,000 miles on the clock. Not bad for a car that spent the first 16 years of its life in sunny (and hot) Southern California before being imported into Canada.

The '85 that my wife drives still has the beehive and is also from SoCal (until two years ago) and indicates 165,000 miles. No sign of oil galley o-ring leaks yet.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 11:52 PM
  #31  
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by trochoid
If you are refering to the dreaded dowel pin leak, between the housing and iron at the top of the engine, it rarely happens on the SEs because they have front mount oil coolers. You need to be more specific as to the location of the leak. How many miles on the engine?
It's got a 13b with 132K. The condition of the car leads me to believe that it was well loved. Of course, this doesn't say anything about how it was driven. I may have to bring it in for an inspection from a professional considering the leak is not obvious as of yet. The oil cooler was replaced ~2K miles ago and looks fine, as do the hoses/connections. I'll let you know what I find.

[B]Also, can/should I use maxlife oil? This is typically used for high mile engine. However, it has several additives that help to stop leaks??
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 01:50 AM
  #32  
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From: St Joe MO
Some members have had fair results with Lucas Oil Stabilizer, others with Barhdal Engine Stop Leak, choice is yours. If the o-ring itself has split, which I have seen in teardowns, nothing will stop the leak. The choice is your's.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 02:06 AM
  #33  
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Thats formula white(color of the car) right. Best color ever. Good job on getting a GSL-SE
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 09:09 AM
  #34  
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From: Colorado
Thanks toes! I have asked all of your opinions about several cars. Thanks for the input! I think this one is in the best condition for the price.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 10:34 AM
  #35  
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No problem hogan. It looks like you've got a great 7. Now have some fun. Post up some more pics when you can. It looks like they all got you covered with oil leak. Good luck and god bless
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