Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Ok I searched and the general concensus is that you don't need to change out your front ebrake cables. All you need to do is swap your two rear cables over to the disc brake type and hook everything up with the cotter pins etc.

I did that.

Conclusion is something's too short.

I adjusted the cable in the ebrake handle all the way down first and it didn't give me enough slack. I still need an additional inch or two.

I tried this next. I unbolted the driver side cable holder from the underside of the body and basically levered the cable into its groove. Hey success! Or so I thought. Turns out while it was physically in there and everything was indeed in place and looking correct, both ebrakes were applied at the calipers - even with the ebrake handle all the way down.

Something is very out of sorts here.

So then I unbolted ther holder and let the driovers cable go sort of au natural and guess what. The ebrake actually works now, after a fashion. The car won't roll on a slightly curved driveway with the handle up in a normal postion. The cable rubs the underside of the body in two places (not good). The 3 way front cable Y adaptor thing is kinda offset too, due to the differences in tension from passenger side (normal tension) and driver's side (kinda loose).

I made sure to install the cables on the correct sides and noted the difference in length. What else can I do? Do I need to swap out the front set of cables or something? Easier said than done with the exhaust heat shieled in the way... along with the driveshaft, center console, seats, etc.

Please help me figure this out.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Ok that was part one. Part two is I have a very squishy pedal and don't know why. The brakes were bled today and they're still squishy. Could I have a drum brake master? The car came to me in this condition so I don't have knowledge of what was changed and what wasn't. I'd like to get a set of braided SS lines for improved brake feel so I'm hooping that eliminated some of it. I'm also going to rebuild all the calipers and use all new pads and make sure the wheel bearings are good.

Druken

I had the same problem. What happened to me in the end was that the cable was ripping at the handle so I couldn't adjust the tension at all. But even still I was able to attach 1 side and the other wouldn't reach. I then bought the proper gsl-se e-brake cable, the Y piece, and I was then able to make them reach.
So if you decide you no longer want to mess around with "trying" to make it fit then just buy the proper part and it will work. I think black dragon auto or mazdatrix sells them for like $20-25.
Goodluck.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Black Dragon does show a difference in the rear brake cables between the GSL and SE. Which rear end and which cables do you have? When I went from drum to disc, I had to loosen the adjuster at the handbrake until it nearly came apart, then loosen the L brackets on the calipers to connect the cables. Once the cables ends were in place, all I had to do was tighten things back up and adjust the handle.

I did not change the master or proportioning valve. Either you have the LH/RH cables swapped, there is a bind in the other 3 cables or the handbrake adjuster is too tight. FSM recommends 4-5 clicks of the handle to set the handbrake.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

i have the same problem on my SA. I have a GSLSE rearend and T2 calipers. I still had the problem when i had SE calipers. The passenger side fits put the drivers doesnt. its annoying, but i rarely drive the car so its not that big of a deal. ill probably just by a SE or GSL Y section later on.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

the end cables came in 2 sizes (1 short and 1 long)

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

When the driver's cable was in its support, and the ebrake was fully on (lol) the Y section was straight so it sounds like I need to swap the forward Y section. IT's as if the short middle cable to connects to the ebrake handle is too short. CRAP! I had easy access to everything before. Now I must take out the exhaust and heat shield...

Anyone know a quick and easy way to free the cable from the ebrake handle? Do I need to take out the driver's seat?

Trochoid, it is a 12A rear end. Still not sure of the actual year but it is either '83 (large flange) or '84-'85. I don't want to pull an axle just to check. And yes I did loosen my ebrake handle all the way. The long nut actually came off - there seems to be a cable stop at the bottom.

The cables (all three - both rears and the front Y section) came with the car so I assume the person grabbed them off the doner car along with the rearend. So far I've only swapped the unequal length rear cables into the car. I haven't swapped the Y section yet. I'm not really looking forward to it because I'll have to drop the exhaust center section yet again.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Can anyone confirm that the Y cables are indeed different lengths? You know, before I kill a set of exhaust gaskets and some time? Thanks.

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

I know with mine I swapped a 84 GSL rear into a 85 GS. I purchased new end cables for both sides from Mazda. I reused all the other cables.

It wasn't easy getting the cables on, had to turn the adjuster on the parking brake handle for what seemed like forever. Also, I connected the rear cable to the front cables before attaching them to the calipers.

To fit them over the calipers, I used a clamp to pull back the lever so that I could slip the T of the cable end onto the lever. After they were on, they fit nicely into the cable holders.

Kentetsu

Jeff

When I swapped the GSL rear end into my GS, I did not change the master cylinder or the proportioning valve. My brakes work great, so I don't think that is your issue with the soggy pedal. FYI...

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

maybe the cables or cable has stretched? I had to re-bleed my brakes after my swap about 4 times before i finally got all the air out.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Jeff, only the rear cables are different. I do know if you switch the cables to the wrong sides, they are a pita to even get on and won't work. Try swapping them first. I don't remember which side the long one goes on, but it seemed backwards to me when I looked at where I thought they should go.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for your input everyone.

Guess what? The ebrake works now! What was the problem? The PO wrenched on the adjusting screw at the ebrake handle for so long it completely twisted the cable around (flipped the counterclockwise cable twist direction over to a clockwise twist) spinning it inside the ebrake handle and then cranked it some more shortening the physical length of the cable by at least an inch.

I didn't grab a yard stick or anything but setting them side by side you could definitely tell the twisted cable was shorter than the spare cable. Oh man I'm glad I had that spare cable!

I spent the entire afternoon dropping the exhaust, heat shield(s) and wrestling the twisted damaged cable out of the ebrake handle and down through the little hole in the tunnel. I'm glad this project didn't cost anything other than time (I'm saving up to do yet another 4 port 13B build lol).

The replacement cable assembly went in pretty well. All the pins went in fine and I've adjusted the handle to 4 clicks up is where it gets tight (about half way on the threaded cable bolt stud thing). Release the handle and the calipers free up the rotors although I'm not sure whether there is any drag. There doesn't seem to be, and there was a little free play in the caliper's cable receivers but they did sit unused for a few years at least so maybe with use they'll improve.

I'll take it for a test drive and make a final adjustment on the handle. How many clicks are you supposed to have? Is a 1st gen ebrake supposed to be strong enough to lock up the tires at all?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

While you're still under there, lube those clevis pins with white lithium grease so they don't rust and freeze up later. Glad you got it figured out, can't imagine how the PO got the cable twisted that much, but then who knows what POs do, I often get surprised by some of the crap they do.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Good advice.

POs are a funny lot. Every car I've ever had has had something done wrong by a PO. From electrical to actual mechanical screw ups (mentioned in this thread).

Percentage

iTrader: (7)

I'm still fixing POs mistakes. ;D

Glad you got it figured out Jeff.

Feds

RE: squishy pedal after rear brake service:

the rear calipers have the automatic adjusters that keep everything tight. when you change the rear pads or service the calipers, you back these out all the way.

You have to raise/lower the e-brake a bunch of times to set the adjusters properly.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

or pull the ebrake while driving in reverse, IIRC

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'll try that Feds! Yeah one of my rear calipers was sticking so I took it off, lubed both slider pins and had to rotate the piston back in to get it back on the bracket. I'll rip on the ebrake a few times and see whether anything changes.

Here is a question. If I can't get rid of my squishy pedal doing all the right things (bleeding, multiple ebrake actuations, new pads, good wheel bearings etc), could it all be in the master cylinder? I have a good used (I assume) master and prop valve setup from an '84 GSL I pulled a while back. I'd do a rebuild on it before using it. Would this be a good idea to swap into my car? I only ask because there is a part number difference on disc brake masters for '81-'83 and '84-'85. I assume it would bolt in just fine. I'd rather rebuild a known disc brake master since I have a choice, and because the drum brake master is the same part number from '81-'85, so it is definitely different from the disc brake units.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

it could definitely be your master cylinder. i would go ahead and rebuild the one youve got and throw it in there. but you MUST rebuild it. if they sit for a long time the brake fluid destroys the seals and youll just be pulling it off again soon. it should bolt right up. i put a SE master in my SA and it bolted straight in. i had to change some fittings but you shouldnt have to.

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

Drum brake masters have a check valve and is a 13/16" bore. The disk brake masters are the 7/8" bore like the second gen uses. The second gen has the same rebuild kit, but the front and rear pistons are reversed.

Kentetsu

I believe the adjustment procedures stated above are only for drum brakes...

Jeff- when I first installed my rear discs, I also bled the hell out of them and they were still a bit squishy. After driving it for a couple of days the issue went away. Weird. I don't know if I would recommend that you try the same, but it may be a thought if they aren't too bad. Good luck...

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Wow, so there is a difference in the bore diameter. I suspected as much but didn't know where to get the info without asking here directly.

Thanks for the advice about rebuilding before using the '84 master. I'll rebuild a spare set of calipers before use too since my current set has one broken bleed screw, but it doesn't really pull to one side anymore since I freed up the sticking caliper on the opposite side, so the squishy pedal is most probably not an issue of air in the system. It's gotta be my drum master and prop valve on a disc brake rearend. Gotta be.

Anyway I'll drive it paying close attention to the brakes to see whether anything changes. Thanks!

Kentetsu

Don't bet on it Jeff. Like I said, I didn't swap out my MC or proportion valve when I installed the gsl rear end. My brakes are great. Really.

Just trying to keep you from uneeded work.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Well the pedal has improved somewhat but it's still very squishy. The ebrake holds well at 4 clicks and doesn't seem to drag. Infact none of the calipers seem to drag anymore.

I'd still like to rebuild the master for peace of mind since the current one is probably stock. I also already have the cailper reabuild kits. I just need to get a set of braided stainless lines and a master rebuild kit.

Hey if all that doesn't solve the squishy pedal I've got something else going on entirely.