dj55b

iTrader: (2)

nice ... now go to a real dyno and post up some more accurate results mine should be getting fired up today in a few hours ... keep your eye open in my other thread.

H4Inf

Hehe.... you want me to pay to go on a dyno when thers a perfectly good one in stuies garage i can hop on for free??? :P

I think to get the most accurate figure we just need to set the load absolutely correct to reach maxrpm... if any dynodays come up ill consider going but really the power number doesnt matter to me.. its just how it feels to drive and that the tune is good - which stuies dyno is good for

Keeping my eye on your thread!!! looking forward to the video good luck mate

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I'm just curious what your itb setup puts out .. thats why. I want better numbers to compare to when I do mine.

H4Inf

For sure..

Well to be optimally setup to make max power I have a few things to do still...

Mid exhaust section to go in this week - returning to long primaries (these were the original ones which were cut out to fit a cat and meet emissions standards) - they are also thick walled, so no ticky sounds from the exhaust

Cold air intake. I'm going to design an airbox to bolt onto the top of my throttlebody in place of the current trumpets and filter. I'll get some ram tubes that bolt straight on so i can reduce the overall height of the intake box.... hose to the front of car, maybe a 90 degree bend then filter out in front of the rad.

Tuning with my wideband kit. I dont have EGT sensors but ive added it to my list of maybe's... looking through your thread i wrote down a few things actually
1- wrap exhaust header + section under seat
2- vac lines from both runners of equal length, but into a reservoir to try and smooth it a bit
3- egt sensors :P

Getting there!!!!

Oh and before I can really do CAI, i need to get my new frontbar put on.. and painted... and since thats happening ill get the dent in bonnet fixed and guard painted as well :P i need a PERT chart or something to plan all this lol.

rambling... its nearly 3am.. zzzzzzz good luck with your car

H4Inf

Sweet. Tested out the cooling today.. The fans didn't come on at all when moving.. or they turned off just after I began moving. They were also very effective at cooling while stopped. The dash gauge remained under 1/3rd the whole time.

Checking the MegaSquirt log, the temperature as measured under the thermostat housing was maxing out at 90C or 194F, but generally ran around 87C/188F. I'm quite pleased with this

I just need to tune the MS so the extra alt load doesn't cause the engine to stall

H4Inf

UPDATES!

I got an LC01 Wideband controller and sensor, had my exhaust modified to include that, wired it into megasquirt as well

Did some tuning, managed to get the voltage drop compensation working well!!! 0.35 miliseconds for every 1volt drop compensation - using 550cc injectors x4 (staged).

At idle im at about 12:1 AFR, and if i turn on electrics, it remains there and idles reliably.... at 700 RPM awesome!

I did a few drives, with controller authority set to 0 so that no corrections were made while i was driving, logged the full trip, then ran an analysis on the data in megalogviewer, updated the table and reloaded it to the ecu.. did that a couple of times - now it is running quiiiite nice! Drives great

Not got too much spare time, but I want to next focus on cold start tuning so that i can just turn the key and it starts, without needing accelerator and without it dying... this involves priming pulse, injector% while cranking, after start enrichment AND coolant temp enrichment...

Eventually i will have it tuned well enough that i can remove the o2 sensor altogether and extend its life for when i make modifiations in future.. i gotta say its amazing how megasquirt and a wired-in wideband o2 sensor are such a great pair to have!!!

just got to have ONE more exhaust mod done where the exhaust shop didnt do exactly as id asked, and ended up removing a resonator that i needed!... oh well

ah and from when my oil hose blew off and soaked front left caliper, those pads are really no good... so ill be getting a new set of pads for my front brakes- quite uneven braking. the oil must have soaked in and the pad is pretty crap now..

H4Inf

A quick update.

Since I have a daily car now I can actually do proper work on the car and not have to rush things... the unfortunate result of this is that I now can't drive my car lol.

I pulled the intake off to modify it for more vac connections.
1. So I can get vac from both rotors, run thru a reservoir and then to the ecu, for the best tuning resolution / smoothest signal!
2. So I can run some sort of idle bypass valve that will allow air to enter below the throttle bodies with the flick of a switch. IDA Intake with my throttle setup is really touchy and hard to get it to idle well, so I figure allowing extra air past the plates when its warming up could help.

So when I took my intake manifold off, damn, lost all my coolant. So I have now put welch plugs into the motor so I won't lose it next time (if there is a next time).

Also since my whole intake was off I decided it would be a good time to do a custom air box to go on top of the TB... and while im at it may as well get some ram tubes and do it all nicely as well! It is taking forever... mainly because I spend a lot of time at work





My dad is helping me out by doing the box that will go on top of the TB, so that is in his hands at this point.

I am heading off to South Africa in a few weeks, so there is no way I will get it done before then I don't think..

and then once it is all back together... it is back to tuning lol. the dyno i had access to is no longer available so it is all road basically.

one advantage (and disadvantage) of boxing the intake will be that there will be less sound when I accelerate. I really enjoy the sound, but it will be better for the general public and police

better get some sleep.. work in about 5 hours 7 time soon !

Paul.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I'll be making an intake box of sort too. Haven't decided the exact shape but have a rough idea. As far as tuning goes with the MS, i've come up with a good way to tune the ITB's you have to use a hybrid of TPS and MAP. I'll try to upload a few pictures of my maps tonight to show you.

-xlr8planet-

iTrader: (3)

I interested too

Im also on the ITB+MS boat

H4Inf

I'm looking forward to seeing how you get good tunability My map signal is so bad that I use TPS entirely for accel/decel enrichments.. at least before the mods.. won't have the car back together for another month and a half i reckon..

EpitrochoidalPower!

Looks like a nice car you have there. I have the same TB's actually, imported from Australia. I run TPS only (Alpha-N) for fueling on my bridgeport and its actually working out very well at the moment. I can get a very stable idle (can get it as low as 450 rpm if I want) and I havent had any problems with tuning/driveability yet. I actually live in South Africa, where in South Africa are you going to? Because if its Cape Town you could come see our little rotary community here. We're actually going on a breakfast run this sunday which im looking forward to, be the first breakfast run with the bridgey . And im looking forward to seeing craigw1's P-Port FB. I get what you mean about the throttles being loud, on my engine they are louder than the exhaust, and thats saying something as my exhaust is 3" with free flowing header, no cat etc. Good thing I can get away with it over here.

P.S You going to watch the Tri-Nations this weekend? :P

H4Inf

Thanks! I can see how TPS could be a pretty accurate way to do the tuning, now that i am getting used to this intake/tb setup.. I have found I could idle as low as 450 as well, however the problem is returning to idle from high rpm, it will stall... even at an idle of 800rpm though, perhaps it just needs more work on the tune.

now that i can get vacuum from each intake runner, then run this through a vac reservoir, and possibly through a restrictor I think the MAP signal may be decent for tuning from.. although if you think i am wasting my time please let me know It is all trial and error here.. a few months ago i was not inclined to go and change everything, but since the car has been off the road for so long it doesn't bother me so much another few weeks to redo the tune from TPS..

I'll be spending some time in Johannesburg and then will be spending a lot of time in the Limpopo region, unfortunately a long way from Cape Town I think.. great to hear there is a rotary community there though I am guessing no rotaries at Hoedspruit :P

I have never heard of a rotary breakfast run before lol.. you will wake everyone up I think my intake sound is definitely more prominent than the exhaust.. it has a really nice angry sound to it.. mmm. it's almost worth plumbing in a pipe through the firewall just to improve the driving experience.

I don't really follow rugby... maybe I should.. your chance to convince me ....

EpitrochoidalPower!

Oh ok. There is a rotary scene up country but I don't know much about it. I don't think your going the wrong direction with MAP at all. If you can get the engine to run on map it will make things easier and will allow the car to adapt better to different loads. Its just that with my bridgeport the vacuum signal is so crazy that I didnt even try the smooth it out especially because I managed so well on Alpha-N.

EpitrochoidalPower!

Oh and im not too serious about rugby either but I was just trying to be funny as the upcoming game is between the Springboks and the Wallabies.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I can get a pretty decent MAP signal with just me tapping into both ITB's and straight to the MAP sensor. Now sure how much a log would actually clean the signal. I basically use the map for accel and decel settings. I don't think you can get it properly done with just Alpha-N. Anyways here's some shots of how i have things setup.

If you're looking the MAP part of it which are the last 2 pictures. My normal map for driving around is normally in the range of 40-55kpa, anything above that is for acceleration, and anything below that is for decel. If you decel with just Alpha-N from high rpms to a stop, most of times you will find out that the engine will stall out because its pulling about 20kpa of vacuum and doesn't have enough fuel to keep it going forcing it to stall out. Or you could pump the pedal once or twice to revive it that way. But really not that smooth on the street.

If you also look in my 500-1500rpm range on my MAP graph you will notice that it's really high in the 55 and above kpa area. The reason for that is when ever my electric fan kick on, it will want to bog the engine down and an increase in kpa is seen so i rise up that area to give it a bit more fuel for that bit of a second till it goes back to normal. Another reason for it too, most of the time that you're from a dead stop and wanting to accelerate, the kpa's increase to 70 or above and really leaning out the engine that it bogs it down at times. So doing this reduces that change, but even me maxing out the numbers at 255 for the map, It still leans out to about 17 buts thats definaly driveable with.

One more thing about the 25kpa area that i found is that if you lean it out too much say 15's to conserve on gas, while that works fine on regular street driving, on the track when you change gears its goes all the way down to that area leans out to the right AFR, but then get right back on the throttle instantly and you'll find it leans it out a bit more than you'd probably like, so what you can do is on the track increase those values to be runnig around 12-13AFR.

For my Alpha-N map which is the one that is the easiest to tune, I dn't think I have much explaining to do on that. The little bump in the low rpm area is there for accelerating from a stop without it leaning out way too much.

Anyways I hope this helps out some of you. This is the method that has worked the best for me atleast so far. If you have any questions let me know. Its not 100% there but i'm slowly working on it.

H4Inf

I am loving megasquirt, i have an awesome tune now... and it was so easy to tune too!

Unfortunately I killed my engine. It only had about 2500km on it too A bolt came loose and went into the rear rotor, taking out all the seals and who knows what else. This particular bolt was one that I did up myself, so all the blame rests with me.

It will be quite a few months before I get things rolling again (3-6), but it's pretty likely I will get it going again and continue work on the car.. I've had it now for more than 4 years... constant work in progress

It has been going so well that I have just been enjoying it too much and not spending enough time under the bonnet obviously.. I had a great few drives in it!!!!! Dammnnn though. The ultimate aim was to just be able to enjoy it, so it was nice to have that at least... and on the night it died, I had been hours away from the city in the hills, and THANKFULLY it died 5 minutes from home! It was a great send-off drive too

Paul.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

that sucks to hear ... what bolt fell down in there?

H4Inf

it was one of the bolts from the ram tube mounting bracket... i neglected to check them... just enjoying driving the car too much

H4Inf

graemefarr@optusnet.com.au

good story. nothing like doing it yourself.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

ouch ...

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Augh! I wince for you.

That'll be a housing, too, I'm sad to predict.

H4Inf

Rear Plate Port


Rear Plate Port


Rear Plate overall looks alright to me... but im not an expert


Mmmmm.. you can see part of an apex seal is fully jammed into the exhaust port.. blends in well.


More rear housing "art"



Since I have lost the bolt, I could find an identical one by seeing if it fits the imprints in the rotor..



Quite noticeable dents in the rotor face


Centre Plate.... Not looking good, unless the deep gouge you can see is in a place where it doesn't matter???

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Ouch, big time. That's some of the worst damage I've ever seen posted. Rear iron looks ok, may need a little dressing, center iron is probably toast. I doubt that the oil control ring will seal with that gouge.

This is the first time I've read your full thread. I must say you've had quite an adventure with building your 7. Keep up the good work.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

i'm surprised that the engine turned that bolt around that many times and no just seized up.