RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok, well instead of making a post saying, "oh look what I got today" and another saying "oh I got this", etc, I just decided to make one that I could add on to as I progress .

So today I recieved the 2nd to last part I was waiting on. I got the oil PSI/temp block from Steve at www.rotaryautosports.com. It looks damn good. It comes with the block itself (anodized black, very cool), plugs for un-used outlets, pre assembled with teflon tape, 4 new O rings, two locking nuts, and the two lengthened studs for $38 plus shipping on his website. Anyway, the only complaint I have about it, is that the new studs that it came with are bigger around than what my oil filter neck uses, so I have to drill out the neck and tap it for the larger studs. Anyway, other than that, its a great product and I would recomend anyone to order from him. After all, its $10 cheaper than RB .

Now, for a question. I think I have this worked out, but Im not sure. On the oil filter neck where the two O rings go, there are two "indents" to seat the O rings in. There are two "indents" on the oil block also, but only on one side. First thought was that the O rings should be placed in the "indent" on the oi filter neck and then lined up with the "indents" on the block. Now, in a way that makes sense, but it seems to me that with both "indents" around the same O ring, there would be too much room and the O ring wouldnt seal well. Now my second thought was that I put the O rings in the "indents" on the filter neck, and then use the other side of the block without indents which would make a good seal, and also leaves "indents" on the bottom of the block to seat the O rings in against the engine. So, which way is this intended to be set up? Which way would you do?

Anyway, thats all for now. I will post later when I make some "real" progress with the swap. Hopefully this weekend .

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok, here are some pictures too, I almost forgot them, lol.

Oil block in all its greatness (showing "indents"):


The oil blocks other side (no "indents"):


The oil filter neck (showing "indents"):


The longer studs with nuts and O rings:


Sitting together...Kinda (does this look right?):


The stud problem (the reason I have to drill and tap):


The -AN fittings, adapters, and new crush washers:


So there you have it, all my oil cooler stuff in all its greatness .

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I think I have mine sitting right in the picture because I remembered DirectFreaks in his picture. I went back and looked, and sure enough, theyre sitting the same way. I realize that theyre two differnt oi filter necks, but I was looking at the oil block under the neck...

DirectFreaks setup:


The way I think mine goes:


If you notice, both blocks would be facing the same direction if mine was bolted to the car . I think I have it figured out now .

~T.J.

EDIT: I assembled it both ways I was talking about earlier. With the two "indents" aligned, I blew through the setup, and had a small leak around the O ring like I suspected. I thought maybe this was because I wasnt holding the neck and the block together tight enough, but then I flipped it over and tried it the way in the picture, and there were NO leaks and I didnt even have to hold the pieces together as tight. Anyway, just letting ya know I think I figured it out .

inittab

I wouldn't drill and tap if I were you. To me it doesn't look like there's enough "meat" on that pedistal for that larger stud plus you run the risk of destroying the part. I'd try get a longer stud in the same thread pitch as your original. When it's all bolted together it won't go anywhere. Looks good!

Rx7carl

Your second steup is right. Think about the stock setup. Flat (no indents) on the egnine block. Grooves in the pedestal. So your just replicating it twice. Flat on the engine block, grooved side down on the adapter with the orings in them, flat side of the adapter up, pedestal with grooves and orings in it pressing down on the adapters flat surface.

Call Steve and see if he can send you the correct studs. I dont think those studs will go thruough the holes in the engine. They look way too big. Hell you got time to get it right.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I thought about that too...Im not sure though, but I think it would work. It will be close if it does, but I think it will.

~T.J.

EDIT: Here are some pictures I took to try and show scale and how much "meat" is actually there. Any comments?

82streetracer

iTrader: (1)

on those AN fittings. how does the SS hose attach to the fitting?

how do you clamp it down.

Rx7carl

TJ, I think you'll be ok.

82 I posted a link to the whole assembly manual online. Search using "aeroquip"

setzep

I think you will find that your rear plate on the engine is already tapped for those M8 screws that he sent along with your sandwich plate. If this is the case you have to find longer studs in the smaller size. The kit that you bought looks to be for a different style filter head (maybe for a different year or something). But you can make it work by just simply getting new studs the same length as the M8's but in the smaller size (M6?).

error402

The red part screws off, you slide the hose over the blue nipple, then screw the red part back on and it tightens around the hose. If that makes any sense.

-Error

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok, maybe this will make it easier to understand .

The red and blue pieces seperate:


Then, you slide the red piece over the hose:
Not Shown

Next, you put the nipple of the blue piece into the hose:


Last, you screw the red piece onto the blue piece while the blue nipple is in the hose. There is a "ridge" inside the red piece so that when the two pieces screw together it "crushes" the hose tight up against the blue nipple on the inside, and seals it:


Thats not EXACTLY how it works, but thats the way it seals anyway. There are a few things you have to watch when you put them together (read the assembly manual), but its a fairly simple process.

~T.J.

Rx7carl

So thats how earls does it. Different from aeroquip. Aero, you screw the red part onto the hose (it has threads inside), then the blue piece screws into the red part.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Guess so . The only threads inside the red piece are for screwing the red and blue ones together. They didnt send my any instructions on how to do it, so this is just what I came up with combined from what Ive read in the Aeroquip manual.

~T.J.

EDIT: I dont know how well you can see these pictures (I made them smaller to dl faster like the rest), but here you can see that the end of the red piece that slides over the hose is actually tapered to help you get the hose in, and when looking down the other end, there are only some barbs in the middle to grab the hose, and then the only threads in there are the ones that join the red piece to the blue piece.

Tapered end:


Threaded end:

MarkPerez

has the oil presure changed at all ?? keep an eye on it.
because o-rings fail.

Rx7carl

TJ, is swivel seal the style you have?

Look here for instructions.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...TS/Swivel.html

Or the general tech
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...PTS/EPPTS.html

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Haha, thanks Carl. I just found that site as well . Yes I have the swivel seal hose ends and the perform-o-flex hose. Good guess .

~T.J.

EDIT: Anyone catch this in step 6...

Rx7carl

LOL, no I didnt read it thru, just skimmed it.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok...Raise your hand if you want to throw your oil cooler across the street into your damn neighbors yard!?!?!?

I knew that with the fittings where they are was going to be a tight fit to get lines on them. I even cut the radiator side shroud to give more room. I tried all kinds of things. All futile attempts. I dont see this happening. The lines arent as flexable as I had hoped, so my plan was blown all to hell and back. I came up with another idea stading there, but it doesnt seem to work either...I dont know how Im gonna mount the damn cooler and still use the fittings that I already bought...**** . On a good note I have the adapters in the cooler with the new crush washers .

~T.J.

PS - Carl, I got your package today, thanks .

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so maybe all hope isnt lost. After some creative thinking and careful moving of parts, I think I have a solution .

~T.J.

Rx7carl

Cool, you got it???? ALRIGHT!!!! WTG USPS!!! No problem TJ, glad to help.

OIC, you were too close to the rad? Looks good from here so far. I think youll get it. Press on!!!!! Almost looks like my 2nd gen cooler installation. I tried to send u pics but your crappy email said my zip file was too big.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I got it. It was funny because my friend was over and he drives this huge Jeep 4x4, and we were just standing around by my car while I was messing with it this morning (I think my trailing ignitor is messing up...But thats another story), and the mail man just kinda appeared out of nowhere because we couldnt see his truck or him until he was all the way into my driveway, lol. Anyway, hes like, I have a package for a "RotorMotorDriver" and I kinda laughed and said it was me . They look like theyre gonna work great though, so I should be all set. When I put the thermostat back in the bottom of the cooler I put some teflon tape around the threads just to add a little extra insurace. I hope this sucker doesnt leak.
Yeah, I was just too close to the radiator. Oh well, I had enough angle left over that I just made two new brackets that used the same holes as before, only theyre two inches longer, which will put the oil cooler right over that big thick bar that its resting on in that picture. Its only going to hover over it by a little bit, so Im going to take some solvent and clean that bar up real good then use some of that foam weather stripping tape I have to cover the bar to prevent any nasty bumps or something from messing it up . I still havent figured out what to do about shock mounting the cooler itself. I was trying to think of something cheap and rubber that I could use to put between the chasis mounts and the cooler itself...So far I came up with stacking some hose washers on eachother (Thanks Mark ), haha...Anyone else have any ideas?

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Just for fun, heres a better picture showing the oil coolers location. You can see the radiator and everything else for comparison.

~T.J.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Are you going to do any kind of shrouding to move the Air through the Oil Cooler instead of going around it?

Felix Wankel

I was wondering the same thing. Looks way out of the air stream up there to me.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I thought about that, but what should I do? I mean, even with nothing there its gonna work at least a littl right? If not Ill hold off on my work until I can come up with something...

~T.J.