Thanks Jutny. Your setup looks really good.

Zulu, all that means is that it's a good idea to build a new harness for the Trailing ignitor, and to not use it to carry the Leading pickup's signal over to the Leading ignitors. I also used to recommend shielded wire. That was back in '01.

By the way, I still haven't switched over to shielded wire. I used to get a slight missfire, but it was caused by a low voltage condition because my ignition wires were just barely good enough for a points igniton system back in '74, and caused a voltage drop through the key switch which reduced the alt's 14 volts down to 13.1 or so at the ignitors and coils. I wired up a 30 amp 12 volt relay from Radio shack and that took care of the problem. The missfires completely stopped. This is just my personal opinion, but I don't think shielded wires are really needed. However, if you experience missfires and everything else is up to par, then by all means try shielded cable.

About running no split on L and T: if you're carbed, don't do it! It'll screw up the flame propagation. You can only get away with 0º split if you're fuel injected. However, with DLIDFIS, maybe Trailing has been made irrelevant because Leading sort of is like a late Trailing spark? I'm going to test my engine with and without Trailing while driving and let my butt dyno tell me if I lose or gain power without Trailing running. Running without Trailing a while ago almost seemed like it had more power, but maybe my mind was playing tricks on me. Well, this time I've got a switch to cut the Trailing circuit on the fly. I'll have to remember to wire it up tomorrow before I tow a friend's REPU.

 

good stuff, thanks.

 

If someone can resize some pics for me i would like to post some pics of my ignition also. Mine has a 40 amp relay and gets pwr directly from the battery like jeff20b was talking about. Any ways if someone could volounters to resize these i could e mail them to you and you could resize and send em back then i could get these up. Please help.

CJG

 

Ill do it if you give me your 79 . Actually, for real, Im not home, but when I get home, I can resize them and post them for you if you want...Just make sure there arent too many of them cause I have to upload them with dial up . Anyway, email them to tjay31584@hotmail.com

~T.J.

 

i was going to do that, but then i decided it wouldnt be an issue. I can always do it later if i so desire.

 

Hmm... why, exactly, would flame propagation be different between EFI and carbed applications? Fuel / air mix is a fuel air mix... it's not like it's running gasoline direct injection. And the DLIDFIS is just providing a hotter spark, not changing the timing... unless I'm misunderstanding something *BIG*.

 

Hey guys, my Trailing ignition made no difference whether it was turned on or off during cold engine start-up and while running on the choke while cold. Also no difference for warm engine start-up and low load driving situations. No difference for high load driving such as towing. High RPM driving up a hill had a slight difference; there was an extra sound that could be heard with the secondaries open that would appear when the Trailing was switched on, and then quit as soon as Trailing was switched off. The difference in power could not be felt.

So in other words, if you've got 0º and 180º sparks on your Leading plugs (like we all do with DLIDFIS and many other direct fire ignition systems), the Trailing ignition is about as usefull as an SUV.

My butt dyno might have felt an increase in power with Trailing switched on, but again, my mind could have been playing tricks on me (there was a slight difference in sound only heard at higher RPM). You are all welcome to experiment with stuff like this if you want. I just wouldn't lose any sleep over a failed Trailing ignitor or coil. Well, not any more.

 

Kenku, just ask Evil Aviator about stuff like that. According to him, there is a difference between efi and carbs and flame propagation.

 

Yeah, suppose I'll have to. Sent a PM off to Rice too... *shrug*

 

Ok guys, here are the pictures that RotorTuner requested that someone resize and post. His setup sure is looking nice. It looks like he did a good job. I bet it works well too .

~T.J.

[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]

EDIT: The forum is being stupid and I cant upload the pictures...

 

Ok, well I gave up trying to upload the pictures to the forum. Its still being lame. I uploaded them to my CarDomain site. So, without further adu, here they are (finally)...

~T.J.

EDIT: If these are too small, I can get bigger ones.

 

Wassup with the little relay between the ignitors?

 

I know I read what it was for at some point, I just dont remember...

~T.J.

EDIT: Anyone else notice that when you use the "Post Reply" box at the bottom, it automatically shows your sig now?

 

the relay is to power the ignition directly from the battery, instead of from the stock wiring.

i was going to do that, but then i decided it wasnt worth all the trouble.

 

Jutny cant wait to see it

Hopefully you can get to the meet by then.

Nick

 

nick,

i sent off my application to Broadway title today, overnight. They say 7-10 days from when they get it to get your **** back to you. So 10 days from tomorrow is next friday, which means i could then go to the DMV and get my car registered... allthough i'll probably also have to call out of work (what a shame).

this whole registration thing is such a ******* headache.

New Jersey is a bastard state, if this were NY, i would have had it registered 3 weeks ago and on the road now.

how bout that snow though?

 

Hey TJ thanks for posting those for me. A note:
I used 10 guaage wire through out my construction. i know its probably over kill but with something thats going to be moving a lot of juice at more than 10k rpm i didnt want any thing getting warm or melting down. And i think running the relay helps that way it eliminates, at least in my case really old wiring and its nice so that your not running all that juice through your old wiring harness. Easy to work on too. I think the whole set costed me about 200 bux. With the 2 coils, making my own MSD super conductor wires. also i converted over to the power towers on all of it, no more of the push in type.

CJG

 

I was wondering what those things were on top of the coils...Any more information on those?

~T.J.

 

yeah, i realized after i placed my order from summit that i could get the power towers... but i like the way it all turned out, so no real regrets.

however, i may switch the power over to a relay when i do the same for the E-Fan conversion.

 

LOL snow sucks....and work sucked, So you should make it to the meet though....I want to see it!! If not Ill see it at work

And good luck with that DMV ****

Nick

 

Hey jutny, let me know how it goes when you get your title. I may have to go through the same proccess for another car, this would be interesting info to have. thanks,

 

When looking at this schematic, are you seeing the back of the ignitors or the front? Because when looking at the front of the ignitor it goes C B then -S G+ .

 

You know - the mazspeed forum folks have been asking me to get off of my *** and show the setup Carl and I did. With all of this being shown - I think I might just ignore work for a little bit and try and get it done for tomorrow.

 

i guess you're looking at the back.

what i never figured out was wether the polarity of the pickup feed mattered or not.

 

Good question, I think i'll wait for Jeff20b to answer.