What is POR15???
Will help me complete my project quicker??
Thanks

 

car looks great!

 

lol my rotors dont look like that there rusted 2 **** but still they are not like that...o well keep up the work man lookin good

 

"my rotors dont look like that there rusted 2 **** but still they are not like that"

Don't know if that is a good comment or bad????
They will get back to normal once you start driving..

BTW thanks for the comments...
L8R

 

Very nice. Yeah, I got wood looking at those pics.

 

POR-15 is a rust paint. Supposebly one of the best ones. You can just brush off the rust and paint it right over it with this stuff. Best is ofcourse sandblasting it. This paint actually absorbs moisture and makes the paint harder. It is very chemical resistance, and ofcourse salt and stuff. The finish is actually described as a ceramic hard like. It can either be brushed on, or if you thin it with their thinner, you can actually just shoot it with a regular paint gun. Here's some of my finished pieces done in silver. As you can see i'm doing things down to the last bolt I've started a thread here:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=sandblasting

 

Does POR15 leave all parts textured like that or is it my imagination?
Every part looks like they have a texture to them, I prefer everything to look smooth after painting.

BTW, I used all Energy Suspension bushings as well BUT when I bought them from Blackdragon they only came in Black, I wanted them in Red like yours but wasn't aware they didn't have them in my color when I ordered them.
Keep up the good work.
L8R

 

Actually that not really a texture ... the silver paint has flakes in there (just kinda like body paint flakes) makes the paint come more alive. The paint it really smooth without textures (this obviousely depends on how you prep parts)

 

looks ok i like it the way it is nice touch with the red man...i am soo jelious of your car i wish i could afford to do that !!! keep it up man

 

Great Job Joe!

Looks great! I never imagined that car would start coming together so nicely.
When you finish, your son is going to wish he never chose that Focus over the RX.

I *still* think you should go Holley over the Weber for the Blow-Thru though.
Webers typically lean out to much even on Normally aspirated cars.. With the Holley you will not run out of fuel after two gears.

Whatever you decide, I want a ride in it when your finished. I remember that car handled like it was on Rails!

 

Hey Directfreak,
Long time no talk to.......
I bet you never thought your parts car would look so good.....LOL LOL
Either way, I will be going to a Holley once I go thru the breakin period. I am going to use the Webers so that I can't over boost then when she is broken in I will change over as well as upgrade the turbo and manifold.
You are welcome to come by anytime and see her in the progress AND you are welcome to take her for a spin once she's back on the road.
L8R
Joe

 

Megasquirt it! Now that would be awesome! Of course with the theme being clean I can understand wanting to stay the carb route in order to have less wires in the engine bay.
This project looks gorgeous! Congratulations on how it is turning out!

 

Hey Rotorheads...
Update on my resto mod,
Well after starting a new job, buying and improving my son's 240SX, repairing both my wifes and my daily drivers due to technical difficulties the motor finally got installed into the 7. I need to finish battery relocation and wiring of MSD boxes as well as lights. I installed a 2nd Gen fuse box inside the car under the dash to replace the fusible links. I hope to have it running by months end as long as nothing else happens...

L8R

P.S.... All bolts in engine bay were polished BUT due to our great wheather lately they have developed surface rust. Once I start and tune her I will repolish all bolts again and park her in the garage.

 

man joe the car looks great.............is she running yet????? can't wait to see her back on the street.........................GREAT JOB!!!!!

 

Thanks Simon...

I hope to have her running for the churasco meet...

L8R

 

At the risk of telling you something you already know . . .

The original gold color on your fasteners was the old zinc dichromate. It was widely used by the japanese OEMs, and you'll find it on SAE Grade 8 bolts in your hardware store. That finish provides moderate corrosion protection. If you want the same look, you can have them re-plated. Contact Yaw Power for info -- they do it on their rebuilds.

There is also a new, more environmentally friendly zinc dichromate, which is silver and is free of hexavalent chromium (thanks to Erin Brockovich and her European supporters). This new zinc dichromate is silver and looks like plain zinc, but performs like the old gold zinc dichromate. Unless you really know what to look for, the only way to differentiate is to ask.

There are newer dip-spin coatings that look like silver paint and perform much better than the zinc dichromate. That's what virtually all OEMs are moving to, if they haven't already. The corrosion performance is far superior, and their torque-tension relationship (how consistently they provide clamp load at a given torque value) is much better, too. There are many "coaters" that might be willing to do your bolts if you give them a large enough pile of them. Do a search for Dacromet, Geomet, Magni, or Doerken -- they're the big players.

Lastly, you can go with stainless. This can be tricky since finding the orignal syle JIS bolt in stainless may be hard, and the strength rating will generally be lower. For any critical applications, look for the high strength stainless bolts. Be sure the strength level of the stainless part meets or exceeds the strength number stamped on the head of the original. Places to search are Totally Stainless and ARP.

Good luck on the resto-mod. It looks clean.

 

^^ Thanks for the info ^^
At this point I am just trying to get her started and then I will concentrate on the final product as my lack of patience is starting to get the best of me..... LOL

 

or there's always just buying stainless steel bolts and nuts for the whole car thats what i'm currently doing, for the majority of the bolts on the car (I'd say about 80% ish) I've spent about 80$CA thats between nuts, bolts, washers. Mind you, you can't use it on everything because sometimes the grading of it is just not high enough. For example you can't use them to replace grade 10 bolts or nuts in most cases (thats most of the drive suspension holding bolts, engine, and transmission bolts too.)

 

yeah be careful with that

stainless steel and mild steel can be very dangerous in the right (or wrong) circumstances.

due to galvanic corosion the stainless will cause the mild steel to rust out around it

i just finished a uni subject on this

google it to find out what exactly happens

 

Damn. Those pictures are beautiful. I like how colorful the parts are. And, the engine. Wow, the engine is just purty.

 

Thanks for the kind words.....

L8R

 

are you serious? i missed this thread untill today- man thats amazing! even the underside of the car glimmers- sweet man. where at in florida are you? maybe we'll run into each other some day... keep it up man good luck!

 

those pictures dont do it justice you should see that thing in person.

 

All wiring has been completed and she CRANKED OVER for the first time in a year......... Haven't started her yet as I want to build oil pressure 1st BUT she will be started TODAY !!!

 

Joe were you at the Miami GP like 2yrs ago with the clean blue 1st gen in the 1st row next to rotary bike?

if so, that is an incredible car and, this car seems to nearly match or surpass that effort so far.
Ready for Churazco?