RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

Great to know about the strainer. I will be buying this soon.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

It takes a little modifying to work, but works. Also have to weasel it in the tank since the pickup area was designed for the little can. But it was the only thing I could find in stock at a parts store.

Also looking at the wiring diagram, the igniter has nothing to do with the fuel pump circuit. Im still tracking down the complete circuit, but the part of the circuit that shows the Circuit Opening Relay doesn't show any connection with the ignitor. It seems there are 2 sources of providing 12Vs to the fuel pump, I just have to find the diagram for that 2nd source. First thing I will do until I find it, I will end up checking that Relay and see what I'm getting from it.

BeenJaminJames

The ignitors are little black boxes on the side of the distributor, across from the vacuum advance diaphrams. The one towards the radiator is leading, the one closer to the alternator is trailing. Pull your trailing plugs (the upper ones) and check for good spark. If you think the trailing ignitor is bad the easiest way to test is to switch them around, of course, then you wont have leading spark, but the car should have fuel pump and tach signal. Let us know what you come up with, Ben

sneezix

Check your airflow meter, as if the computer thinks that it's closed, it will shut off your fuel pump.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

It wasn't a question of where the igniters are located, they are not part of the circuit for the fuel pump.

I do not believe its the Air Flow meter because the pump doesn't kick on using the Short Connector either, which bypasses the AFM. I will probably check the relay tomorrow.

BeenJaminJames

And with that, the carbed 12A man that can't read will retract his statement.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

I do appreciate the help, wasn't trying to sound like a dick about it. Tracing the wiring diagram at first I thought more was involved than actually was, but then I remembered how to read them and its a pretty simple circuit.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

Checked out the relay and wasn't getting any power through it. Used the Short Connecter again, this time with a piece of wire, and got it to switch and get power down to the fuel pump, which still is a no go. Not sure if the fuel pump is dead or has a dead spot, but will probably replace it. The only other thing I'm not sure is if its a problem getting a ground through the Air Flow meter that is keeping the relay from flipping, or if the other power source is the problem since I haven't found that part of the diagram yet.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

Wow I didn't realize I've had this thing sitting in my garage this long.

Time to start working on it again. Upon looking at the wiring diagram and doing a facepalm, I think sneezix is right about the AFM. Fuel relay not kicking on unless you use the short connector and bypass the AFM, points everything at the AFM.

Still the fuel pump not actually kicking on makes me think the fuel pump is dead as well.

I have the dash out of the car now, heater core needs replacing. There is a nest of wires behind the radio that I get the fun of finding out where they go since it looks like the radio has its wires, not many though.

If anyone is in the area and would like to come have a look at it, give a little better insight on it, possibly have a beer, I welcome help. As I mentioned before, I know the basics on it, but not the ins and outs like I do my Civic I've been abusing for 11 yrs.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

Update:

Replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro 255lph, which was a bigger pain in the *** than I expected. I still should change the outlet lines to -10AN instead of -8AN, but it is sealed and working. Changed the oil in it, old oil smelled like old gas. Once I got everything hooked back up, turned the key over and probably 3 secs later it was busy making sure there were no mosquitos in the neighborhood. I need to put more gas in it, but it idled on its own for about 5 mins before it ran out of gas.

I may end up needing to enroll the help of some more experienced rotary heads to get her running smoothly as right now it idles like its got a huge cam in it. I know it doesn't but easiest way I can explain it.

I still need to get a heater core for it and replace it and get the dash back in. I wanted so bad to get it off the wheel dollies and take it out for a short drive to see if it would clear up, but no shifter, steering column is loose and no steering wheel at the moment.

Anyway its one big step for it, hopefully I can get it on the road soon as my civic's transmission is driving me nuts.

Josh Wharton

i just replaced the heater core in my 84 SE and the first one i got leaked worse then the one i took out....anyway the only place i could find that had a core for it was oreilly's. Sounds like things are going in the right direction thou

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

I haven't had this car long but have already given up on part stores actually having parts for this car. You can still pick up heater cores on any of the online stores so I just go there and order. Seems they are cheaper than I remember last time I looked them up.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

Heater core came in the mail today, will hopefully have it in and the dash back in the car this weekend. Will get some more gas for it and have another go at it.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

Bah! It wasn't the heater core that was leaking! Some jackass screwed up the lines coming out of the firewall and cracked the ever living **** out of them. After a couple attempts to make my own or fix the factory one I am now in the search for the shorter of the 2 that come out of the firewall.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

are you talking about the small one that turns down at 90 degrees? if so i have an oem unit in stock

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

That would be the one. I know there is an 85 in a local pull a part, but trying to avoid going through pulling another dash out for that little piece.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

Still no luck getting the line I need. I was going to go out to Pull a part and see if it was still on that car, but they crushed it before I got out there. I tried last week to get it started again and make sure it gets warmed up and try to clear out the smoke, but all I got was a click from the starter.

Almost to the point where I will get the dash back in, maybe fiddle with it a bit more and sell it.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I've had time to get motivated again to work on this thing. This past weekend I finally got the heater core back in. I still need to remove the evaporator housing again and redo the seals on the clamps that hold the 3 housings together, the factory stuff has crumbled away. Thats no biggy though, won't take long to do.

Next step is figuring out this mess:


Its not as bad as it looks though. It is a total of 5 wires: 1-Brown, 1-Green Yellow, 2-Red/Blue(splice is maybe 6" down the harness), 1-Red/Blue. There is a 12 gauge?(guessing here) ground wire that needs to be repaired as well.

I have tracked down what pins they are on the main connecters: X-04 and X-05 and I was able to figure out what 2 of them were glancing through the wiring diagrams. 1 was for the headlight circuit and I forgot the other. I need to get the diagrams printed out to really track this down.

I'm starting to believe someone had an alarm in this at some point with this mess of wires with the cut ground, along with 2 extra wires coming out past the plugs on the passenger door, I haven't checked the drivers yet.

When the wiring gets taken care of, I will see where I can take this and get it pull started as I think it locked up from running for a couple mins before.

GrandmoffSilvey

Be prepaired to have to change your brake master/slave cylinders as well as your clutch cylinders/line. Mine is an 84 gs with about the same miles and sat for the same amount of time. The failure was 'sudden,' messy, in the first two months of driving it and out while I was driving in both cases. I went though 2 gas filters in the first month, fuel stabilizer was used in a mostly empty tank in my case. GL on getting that engine running, be vigilant.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

The brakes are already leaking, so I already expected to have to change all the rubber lines and everything.

The tank was surprisingly clean when I dropped it.

I have finally got the wiring diagrams printed out and I'm hoping I have 3 of the 4 wires traced and they all have something to do with lighting. The only one I'm having issues finding on the diagram is a Brown wire. This weekend I hope to dive more into it and hopefully find the issue here and get a plan to resolve it.

Once that is done, and thank you for reminding me, I get the lines replaced. I will find someplace I can haul the car and pull start it, as I don't think my neighborhood would appreciate it.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

Alright, the cut wires...Overdrive switch and I believe the illumination lights for the shifter indicator and ashtray. The part that baffles me is why they were cut in the first place since it is a GSL-SE and those wires other than the ashtray illumination have nothing to do with anything on it. I will most likely make sure of the ashtray illumination light wire, rewire it and completely remove the other wires and reloom it.

TheOdditie

iTrader: (1)

I'm at it again and this time I plan to get the car running and on the road.

I had a friend come over and help me out with it today. I had thought the engine locked up because the starter was just clicking. Turns out the starter cable was just loose. Engine was turning over but wasn't even trying to start. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to it and was getting around 43 psi cranking it over, just under the minimum on a brand new fuel pump. We did some more testing, pulled the plugs out, disabled the ignition and fuel system and turned it over and a ton of fuel came out of the plug holes. So fuel pressure is low, but is flooding it out. Points us to the fuel regulator and/or injectors. We pinched off the fuel return line and viola we have pressure.

Does anyone know how to check the pressure regulator for vacuum or whatever? Seems all the reading I find on the fuel system, they leave this part out. If I have to pull the intake manifold to get down to it, I plan to go ahead and pull the injectors and get them cleaned as well. Cash is tight right now, so I can't just throw parts at it unless I come across them cheap.

RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

I had the injectors on mine done at WitchHunter Performance WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services

I was really happy with the outcome.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Fpr changes fuel pressure based on manifold vacuum. Put a vacuum pump on it and the fuel pressure should change based on how much vacuum is applied.

Also a Walbro should be used with an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator such as an aeromotive. I'd recommend getting a stock fuel pump or an Aeromotive for your Walbro.

Also have the injectors cleaned. And verify there are no mouse nests in the intake manifold.

ArmyOfOne

iTrader: (12)

Does it look like the pullies were tampered with?