O.K. so hopefully you all have been following my post in the past few weeks. So here's an update with some questions hopefully the are specific enough for everyone so i can get the best advice out there...

First and for most is the Throtle stop screw that controls the position on the Primary throtle plate at idle. Is there a fool proof way of setting this. I have done asper the service manual and set the gap to .060 with fast idle cam ingaged. but this seem to make the idle to high on cold start like right at 4k way to high for cold start. knida hard to use the feeler gauge though due to the shape of the throttle plate and the feeler gauge.

Secondly best way to set fuel air mixture. Iv tried the way the book say but i cant get the car to idle at 800 with the Air Adjust screw. I can only get it down to 1k. and thats all the way closed half turn out. so when i try to find that little sweet spot in the fuel mix. i dont have enough room in the Air adjust screw to set it proper.

So i guess my problem is that im getting to much air into the system by other means either the BAC or the air in take. Im fairly certain that there is no vaccum leak that i can find. Have checked with wd-40 and carb cleaner all around the BAC and the intake manifold, and throttle body. Any help like always is appretiated. Im ganna keep screwin with this thing until i get it right....Could take awhile that way though LMAO

 

I guess I'll reply to this one, then! (double posted your thread)

The idle stop adjustment that you mention is a fine tuning adjustment to ensure that your lower limit is set correctly. I have never used feeler gauges to set this amount - just warm the engine up and set the bottom throttle stop to an rpm that is correct for your required idle speed. This assumes that all other systems are operating correctly.

If you've already messed with the idle air mixture (Variable Rheostat, as per Mazda), then you'll need to reset to get everything back in line. This is an idle 'quality' adjustment, not an idle speed adjustment. The VR should be the LAST thing that you attempt to tune, not the first.

If your BACV is clogged, it will allow too much air in at idle and result in surging (1k-4k) or high idle condition. Put your air bleed (idle adjustment) back down to where it belongs, since the idle air bleed is only good for a variation of about 500rpm, and again, this assumes that everything else is working correctly. The air bleed is only a fine tuning of the idle speed. You have to have everything else in good trim to get the air bleed to adjust idle, at all.

Run a quick search on SE EFI "Surging" and "Idle Speed" adjustment to get the full skinny. There is a great link on SE intake tuning and it gives a step by step method of adjustment that works 100% - sorry I don't have that link available here.

Basically, what I recommend is that you return everything to where you found it, and then clean out your BACV - this will likely do wonders for the other 'settings' performing as designed. Also, take the TB off and lube up the throttle rods so that you don't induce a surging condition. HTH, and reply back with results,

 

Well that was quick...Thanks. I have pulled that BAC in the very recent past and everything in there seemed to be up to snuf. I just know that i have played with everything else so i fiqured i would return to were i started. other than that i will do that search and see if it is different than the link i already have. There is no surging in the car what so ever just the idle is to high about 1150 with everything off. Turn the light and all on it sits at 1k. i just thought BAC was specific to A/C am i wrong on that. I have no A/C in the car. Thanks again

 

You do have a BACV regardless of ac/no ac. Air is making its way into your motor. if your butterflies are closed properly (gap at idle is correct) then you have a "leak" somewhere between the throttle and motor. Sounds to me like a vacuum leak.

 

Yes Sir I know i have A BAC I have removed it an cleaned it before and will do again just to be sure. The BAC should be 100% closed at idle right???i know it idle fine before i removed it other than trying to stall at stops. It never would stall just try to the rpms would dip maybe 100 or so. i will hopefully have time to look at this later on in the evening. Are there and specific vaccum leaks on the 85 gsl-se that are hard to locate or find if so let me know. Iv been in that motor going crazy with the carb cleaner trying to find a leak to no aval...

Also if some one can tell me how many turns there AIR ADJUST SCREW is turned out that would be great. Mine is all the way in 1/4 turn out.. The same info for the Fuel air MIx would help allot. just so i can start eleminating certain items and work around them. Thanks

 

O.K. so here's a break down of what i did today. I took back off the BAC/ASV split them and cleaned both they looked clean already though, Just to reasure myself... The BAC had smooth operation and the diaphram would hold if i blocked the little vaccum line. Still i thought that the BAC/ASV was bad so i made a block off plate for it just out of plastic and silicone and screwed everything back together. Still had a high idle maybe droped 100 rpms but not as much as i need it to drop in order to bring the idle back up with the AAS. So thats one item down on the list of possiblity's.

Re-sprayed various parts of the intake and throttle body/chamber to check for vaccum leaks Still cant find any.

Re-set TPS again just to make sure i had it in the right place.

Set the fast idle cam and idle stop screw now that it was warm enough out side to get it close. atleast now i dont get 3.5 - 4.0k starts in cold conditions woot woot.

So were am i getting all the extra air from? im not really sure maybe the air intake. maybe the electronic portion of the Air Flow Meter. I'll probally have to spend afew days on that. I really just need some direction.

And the last question for you 1rst gen people. I disconected the power steering before all this happend. how does the power steering pressure switch interplay with the ASV or does it. Were is the Fuse for this switch or is there one. Is there a way to by-pass this to give the cpe a no load condition.

Well hopefully we can get this solved soon. Its very driveable but i just want it to run right. Thanks all and i look forward to your reasponses..