I agree adjust the rear shoes tighter and use a good brake pad and don't for get to clean the rotors with brake cleaner before installing the new pads. I use hawk hp plus pads but they are noisy and dust alot.

 

Well, still haven't figured out the problem, but while I was at the meet at JPR in NJ last weekend, I got to see what the brakes felt like in a stock '79 that a guy on this forum (John) has, and his brakes were FAR better than mine. Another idea I have is to try changing out the proportioning valve because that is basically the only other part that hasn't been replaced, as well as check the lines again for possible kinks that I never saw before. Also, I noticed that day that when I pulled the e-brake as hard as I could at 10 mph, it was basically slowly gliding to a stop, at which it felt like it came to a rest, as opposed to feeling a bit more sudden when it finally stopped. Just frustrating how soo much has been replaced, but the problem still remains............one which has actually been there for 10+ years now. Yeah, it's been that long now.......

 

it sounds like you're expierencing the same thing that I am with my 7, although I have stock '+' wheels with all season tires. I have glazed my brake pads from driving hard and turning my rotors bright orange (I came to a stop at a stop sign and thought i had lit something on fire under my hood because of the amount of smoke that was pouring out of the front of my car, it was brake smoke). Try replacing your pads with some Hawk HPS pads. That's what i'm going to order when I get my credit card paid off.

 

Do the Booster checks of
1 holding the brake pedal down and starting the car.
The petal should drop more than a little.
2 after the car is running hold the petal down and shut off the car
The petal should not move

If the Check Valve is bad or you have a vacuum leak the booster will not give full power.

The Booster works using engine vacuum on the front and atmospheric air pressure on the rear.
The surface area of the dinner plate inside there times the air pressure = force.
Also if the booster is working
You are not really pushing on the master cylinder you are opening an air valve inside that lets in more air that pushes on that diner plate that pushes on the master cylinder.
Better is hooking up an hydraulic pressure gage in the brake lines but I assume that’s not realistic

 

I had a similar problem, Pedal felt fine, no air bubbles no nothing. Turns out, the Booster was seized... Driving like this, was near impossible to lock the tires without standing on the pedal. I know its a pain, but its possible since its been sitting for a while!