buffalo

CHECK THIS OUT- NEW KONI'S, EIBACH SPRING'S, HOLLY INTAKE KIT, RB EXHAUST SYSTEM, RB FRONT AND REAR SWAYS BARS COMING THIS WEEK--- AND JUST INSTALLED YOKO AVS I 'S--- AND NOW I THINK I LOST THE REAR ROTOR- WAS WONDERING WHAT BLOWN ROTOR SYMPTOMS MIGHT BE, I.E., NOISE, POWER LOSS, IDLE, FROM MILD TO SEVERE? ALSO WHERE CAN I PICK UP A GOOD QUAILITY COMPRESSION TESTER?--ALOHA BUFF

Manntis

WHAT? SPEAK UP....

buffalo

I WAS WONDERING WHAT WERE SOME OBVIOUS SIGNS OF A BLOWN MOTOR

Keaponlaffen

I think manntis was cracking at your very blatent use of capitalization... might want to lower the case and utilize proper punctuation... it really helps us out here.

Anyways, A blown rear rotor would give you hard (almost impossible) starting, no power, irregular idle, it won't ilde at all most of the time, and it'll even sound different when it's driving.

To check compression, just use a standard piston engine checker, and take the little valve (looks like a car tire valve stem) outta the guage. This holds the pressure in until you press the button, used for piston engines where there's only one compression stroke per 4 cycles in each cylinder. In a rotary, you want the needle to bounce with each apex seal. You should get 3, regular bounces on the compression tester. If not, you've toasted at least 1 apex seal. Or have one stuck.

Perhaps try an ATF treatment?

Jeff

mperformance

yeap do an ATF...on a side note...make sure your carb isn't flooding big time...I took a **** (scared) when my engine flooded so badly once that it had all the symptoms of a blown engine...I even did an emergency ATF treatment but soon discovered it was the carb.

buffalo

eh, thanks for the tips, i'll try compression test tommorrow, by the way i regularly use MMO with each oil change and occasionally in the gas tank- i'm hoping that i to have fuel related problem, as i've checked ignition system already, and vacuumn leaks- and yes, sorry my typing skills suck-