Mounting the front oil cooler higher up. Opinions please.
01-30-05, 10:49 PM
#1
Mounting the front oil cooler higher up. Opinions please.
I'm doing a 12abp and need to get rid of the beehive. I have a 2nd gen oil cooler that I'm mounting. I am also doing a widebody kit and want to leave room for a possible fmic in the future.
Looking at the possible mounting locations and I'm concidering mounting the cooler high, i.e. behind the bumper or the front header panel. I have to modify the bumper for the kit and it will be wrapped in fiberglass, so I could make vents in the bumper or the cowl, depending on which location I choose.
The gist of the question is: Will mounting the oil cooler high affect anything?
i.e. Since the stock location is about oil pan level, it shouldn't affect the oil level in the sump. Will mounting it high change the reading on the dipstick, will the oil drain back into the sump and cause any other problems? I'd hate to be running 1 qt. low all the time because the cooler has drained back into the sump and given a false reading on the dip stick.
My other concern is that when the thermo-valve opens when operating temps are reached, that there could be a sudden, short oil starvation, while the cooler fills.
I know a few of you out there has done this, any opinions, thoughts or problems?
Thanks, Scott.
Looking at the possible mounting locations and I'm concidering mounting the cooler high, i.e. behind the bumper or the front header panel. I have to modify the bumper for the kit and it will be wrapped in fiberglass, so I could make vents in the bumper or the cowl, depending on which location I choose.
The gist of the question is: Will mounting the oil cooler high affect anything?
i.e. Since the stock location is about oil pan level, it shouldn't affect the oil level in the sump. Will mounting it high change the reading on the dipstick, will the oil drain back into the sump and cause any other problems? I'd hate to be running 1 qt. low all the time because the cooler has drained back into the sump and given a false reading on the dip stick.
My other concern is that when the thermo-valve opens when operating temps are reached, that there could be a sudden, short oil starvation, while the cooler fills.
I know a few of you out there has done this, any opinions, thoughts or problems?
Thanks, Scott.
01-30-05, 11:03 PM
#2
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I plan on the same thing, I have my FC cooler running at the sway bar right now but will be moving it up when I install the FC radiator, the header panel is my choice, I plan on cutt a long slot and making a airbox just for the cooler so all the air gets forced through it. The valve question is interesting, I didn't think about that. My valve is removed so it always flows, having it at a different level and adjusting for the oil level my take some thought.
01-31-05, 12:37 AM
#3
FB+FC=F-ME
Heres mine.
Oil cooling ability was OK but I cut out the header panel to help airflow.That dropped temps about 10-15 degrees depending on ambient temp.
I then ran an aux. cooler in the chin duct from an 80's 300ZX turbo,just to be sure.I need a lot of cooling with my setup,but a non turbo should be fine with just one RX cooler and decent airflow.Just be sure to have a decent opening and some sheet metal ducting like mine will help a lot.You just need some cutters(or a nibbler) and a small rivit gun.A little foam strip along the edges will seal it up and really help with ducting air through the core.
If you run the cooler without the valve,then your not getting much cooling.The oil is gonna take the path of least resistance through the bypass hole and skip the core.If you do delete the valve you MUST block the hole between the 2 tanks of the cooler.
Dont worry about air pockets.My high/low dual cooler system comes up to pressure within a few seconds and has worked fine for years.Th valve doesnt close all the way when cold,so there is always some flow through the core.This is designed into the cooler from the factory to prevent stagnation and air pockets.
Oil cooling ability was OK but I cut out the header panel to help airflow.That dropped temps about 10-15 degrees depending on ambient temp.
I then ran an aux. cooler in the chin duct from an 80's 300ZX turbo,just to be sure.I need a lot of cooling with my setup,but a non turbo should be fine with just one RX cooler and decent airflow.Just be sure to have a decent opening and some sheet metal ducting like mine will help a lot.You just need some cutters(or a nibbler) and a small rivit gun.A little foam strip along the edges will seal it up and really help with ducting air through the core.
If you run the cooler without the valve,then your not getting much cooling.The oil is gonna take the path of least resistance through the bypass hole and skip the core.If you do delete the valve you MUST block the hole between the 2 tanks of the cooler.
Dont worry about air pockets.My high/low dual cooler system comes up to pressure within a few seconds and has worked fine for years.Th valve doesnt close all the way when cold,so there is always some flow through the core.This is designed into the cooler from the factory to prevent stagnation and air pockets.
Last edited by steve84GS TII; 01-31-05 at 12:49 AM.
01-31-05, 01:56 AM
#4
Steve, thanks for the great reply. I had thought about slotting the header, until you posted your pic in another thread. Looks great.
I'm curious how you mounted the cooler to the body. From my test fits, it looks like it will need to be off center towards the passenger side, to acommodate the oil line fittings.
I'm still fighting the bumper fitment, the kit takes the SA front bumper, but I'm being stubborn and trying to modify the FB sub-bumper to fit, then wrap it in fiberglass for finish.
Thanks again, Scott.
I'm curious how you mounted the cooler to the body. From my test fits, it looks like it will need to be off center towards the passenger side, to acommodate the oil line fittings.
I'm still fighting the bumper fitment, the kit takes the SA front bumper, but I'm being stubborn and trying to modify the FB sub-bumper to fit, then wrap it in fiberglass for finish.
Thanks again, Scott.