I am swaping a s4 T-2 engine in my 1982 FB has anyone else done this?
Do I need custom mounts or will it bolt right on?

 

goto the faq page,

many people have done it.

you will need a 1st gen front cover and a gsl-se oil pan as far as i know.

carl.

 

Correct, its the same as for all 2nd gen engine swaps into the FB chassis. You need a 1st gen 12A or 13B front cover and a 1st gen 13B oil pan. You have to retap the front cover to accept the oil return line from the turbo I think, but after thats done, it should just drop right in.

 

what do mean front cover

 

nice car carlrx7

 

spankx

 

To retain the 4 line OMP youll need to use a GSL-SE front cover.The S4 OMP will bolt directly to the SE front cover(the aluminum cover behind the fanbelts),it will not bolt to a 12A front cover.Plus the SE cover has a perfect spot to drill and tap for the turbo oil drain.
A GSL-SE oilpan is also needed.You can use the stock front mount plate,but a 12A mount will have to be notched/bent a little to get just right.

 

make sure you drill and tap it with the motor out. save you alot of hassle.

http://home.mn.rr.com/linnihan/turbo_oil_return.htm

carl.

 

Don't forget the oil pickup tube. Swap out your 2nd gen one for a 1st gen type.

 

Please don't take this the wrong way but if you are asking that question, you're not ready for it.

 

I finally have the cash now so I want to get this done soon.
I am having some friends help who are rotary experts so I shouldn't have trouble with instalation I just need to know an parts I need to buy up front to prepare for this project

 

Dude... make sure your friends really know what they're doing.

The front cover is, amazingly enough, what covers the oil pump on the front of the engine. We'll just say it's between the Pulleys and the first iron.

You need that front cover, in order to mount up to a RacingBeat engine mount (13b into 12a chassis adapter), and you need a GSL-SE oil pan to properly clear your steering I believe (I know you need the pan, I'm pretty sure that's why).

Since you're dropping it into an '82, you're gonna have a world of trouble with wiring. Get your TII engine with the works, ECU and all wiring that you can get. Make sure you have a Heynes at least for both the TII whose engine you took and the FB that you're working on. Factory Shop Manuals are good, but the Heynes has most of the wiring diagrams anyway.

And for God's sake... SEARCH!. This has been covered before. There's a thread in the archive about swapping a TII into a GSL-SE. While you don't have the GSL-SE, there is still a lot of good info there to be had. There are plenty of threads that have gone by about this swap, and it's been done lots.

If you have any questions while you're doing the swap, you can feel free to post on here. All we ask is that you search first, and try to figure out as much as you can, so that you can formulate a good solid question that we can answer. And don't get pissed off if we don't respond within 24 hours either.. not that you did, but a lot of people have been doing that lately. Some people on here only log on once a day or less, and those people might have the answer to your question, since not everyone has a TII-FB.

I hope you or one of your friends is good with wiring diagrams and a soldering iron!

Don't forget, for a TII, you're going to need a high-pressure fuel pump. You should probably go aftermarket and get a fuel pressure regulator, so that you can be assured of a good fuel flow.

And the TII originally comes with a Top-mounted intercooler. You have to do one of two things for your FB : 1. Get another (Front-Mounted) intercoooler, and mount it where Directfreak has his (look around, you'll find him) or 2. Get a scoop in your hood to feed the Top-Mounted InterCooler (TMIC).

So let's see.. I'll try to sum up and figure out if I missed anything:

- RB mounting bracket (from www.racingbeat.com)
- Any 1st gen front cover to mate to the bracket, but preferably a GSL-SE one.
- A GSL-SE Oil Pan to clear your steering
- Heynes Manuals
- Soldering Iron and Solder
- High-pressure fuel pump and regulator
- Front-mounted intercooler or hood with appropriate sized/shaped scoop
- A big forkin' rubber hammer (you always need a big forkin' rubber hammer!)

I'm sure I've missed a few things, but these are the basics. As you get the project underway you'll undoubtedly encounter things that you'll need. My advice is to make sure you don't mind having the car off the road for a while (in case you have to wait for parts), read up on it as much as you can, have an extra cash supply for parts you'll inevitably forget, and have lots of time in-a-row to work on the car. The worst thing you can do when performing a swap like this is to just do it on weekends or leave large chunks of time between work periods. You forget things. No matter what you do you forget things.

You've got much to learn before you do this swap.. if one of your rotary buddies has done it before, you're good to go... if they havent', get them on here and reading! This isn't a simple Civic engine swap where the kits are already made and the engine drops right in!

Jon

 

The wiring diagrams are all available on line (iluvmyrx7.com), and if you can follow a line, and aren't clour blind, the wiring is not that hard. Print out all the wiring diagrams for your car, and the ones for your engine, and keep them in the garage. Do get the ECU and harness that go with your engine (unless you want to go stand alone), but grafting the early harness to mate with the late harness isn't that tough. Remember one thing: In automotive wiring, you generally have 3 choices: 12Volts, Ground, Sensor Wire. 12V goes to battery, ground goes to body, sensor wire goes to computer.

Don't waste time with the haynes. Go Factory Service Manual, or go home. You can get by with the haynes, but there is so much more information/tests and checks you should be performing/general goodness in the FSM, that it is well worth the $$.

Oh, one more thing. Don't solder car wiring. The joints don't hold up as well as a crimp on connector. Crimp connections followed up with resin-filled heat shrink is the only way to go.

Finally, don't come running for help every time a bolt doesn't line up. Take a step back, crack a beer, and look at it from a different angle. It's usually something simple, and you'll feel smarter having figured it out yourself.

 

I really appreacite the help guys ,and yea the guy thats helping me has rebuilt several AT-2 himself and I trust him hands down. If he F***s up anything its his money hehe

 

bump

 

but if there is a llist of everthing that I will need to buy
that would be great help , so I can use my next pay check to buy the stuff

 

Depends on what you already have.

 

That sounds good....I should take some notes...I might be doing this swap....

 

I have 1982, but I'm not sure of the model I have, I know its not a GSLE
Bbut it has rear drum brakes(ghetto)

 

Bump