blwfly

iTrader: (4)

you can take the oil cooler off and clean it out with break fluid i do that every time i put a new engine in also as stated above i have reused crush washers and only got away with it twice this time the bung cracked

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

I've used Amsoil Engine Flush on a V6 Isuzu Amigo, a 3cylinder Geo Metro, and on the REPU's 13b. Poured into oil, ran engine for 15 minutes, engine got nice and warm, drained. Purged out the oil pan with brand new oil to get reminants of the Engine Flush liquid out.

Both piston engines really liked it, engine ran much smoother and quieter. Took oil cap off valve cover and saw all the engine sludge was gone. Clean as a whistle in there now.

With the REPU I was switching from Castrol GTX 20/50 to Royal Purple and wanted to clean the entire oiling system out before putting in the precious Purple. I ran the Amsoil Engine Flush before the oil change to Royal Purple. After draining and purging the oil pan with NEW Royal Purple, I also took both oil cooler lines off the motor and ran NEW Royal Purple thru the lines and oil cooler to purge the Engine Flush from those too. The 13b ran a little better but not as dramatic an improvement compared to the piston engines.

I wouldn't run an engine flush in a rotor motor again; just didn't see much of an improvement. Oh, and the engine still runs like a bat outta hell.

Now, Slick50, keep that away from your rotor motor. Many well documented cases of that **** destroying beer keg engines. Teflon has no place being in your oil; even DuPont said so.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Motor flush removes sludge and more importantly on piston engines it cleans the cylinder walls and the valve guides, and that is what makes the biggest difference. Put this in a rotary and you can't get enough in the combustion chamber to clean anything, thus seafoam is more effective. If you want to clean the rest of the oiling system run a pint of transmission fluid through the oil for 50 km.

Pocket Trey

Alrighty I am done with the flush

Good and bad news

Bad news I did not get many pics and they suck. I forgot my camera at home and took my car to a garage and left it to cool down so the pics I took with my cell phone.

Good news is I got the flush done without issues or braking my little 12A,

I guess having a little experience with turboshaft engines paid off.

Performance wise the improvement in my engine is outstanding. Acceleration on secnd gear improved 100%. Now I can feel the car. It runs cooler too. Yes, my temp gauge never was below the exact middle and now it won't go past 1/4. Very much improved there. Now I have to check to see if there is a tstat installed as I think is running to cool. Hence my engine was very neglected in the past. I could tell by the stuff I had to clean out of my oil pan. Pretty nasty stuff.

I definately recommend doing this. But when you do it ensure you have two gaskets and plenty of time to wash your pan in the parts cleaning solvent tank.

I would say even more. If your car is over 100K and your oil turns dark after the first run after getting an oil change, I would at least drop the oil pan and check it. You wouldn't believe how much crap I took out of my oil pan. But when you looked upward to my engine the engine looked pretty much clean.

OHHHH I almost forgot. We should all thank the MAZDA engineers that place the scavange screen on the oil pump tube. I believe that screen saved my engine from complete oil starvation. I think the pic shows a little of the residue. The screen was completely covered in crud when I dropped the pan.

If you want to do the flush, go ahead it is safe and the myth is busted.

These are the steps I followed
1. engine totally cool=at least 3 hours off
2. Pour entire contents of motor flush in your eng
3. start the car and let it run for 4 1/2 minutes (don't rev it up)
4. Drain oil
5. drop the oil pan(bTW you will need a shaved 10MM socket for the second front driver side bolt as the torque wrench will not fit in there)
6. Also you have to drop the stab bar across there(pretty simple; two nuts and hit it hard with a hammer it will loosen up)
7. clean oil pan
8. Gasket rtv and put back on(don't forget the pressure sensor and oil level send unit.)
9. Torque it to 100"lbs (yeah the book says 11ft LBS=(131"lbs) but is way too much the gasket cracks) I had two of them LOL
10. Put everything together and lower the car.
11. Flush the oil cooler after removing it(I did it with oil) the bypass valve does open at 157deg so the book calls for 149deg (maybe my thermometer is out of calibration)
12. Replace the filter and fill your system with new oil.(Mine took exactly 1 gallon of oil)
13. Start the car and idle for 2 minutes
shut off
14. raise the car and check for leaks

Done

Look at the scavange screen. Too bad you can't see how little amount of screen could be seen when I dropped the pan



not too dirty in there



Pan off without cleaning



After I started cleaning

(GROSS STUFF)



I also have some pics of my oxidation revival as I call it. LOL








This is before any oxidation is removed. This is the seller's picture on ebay



Hope you enjoy the read and are more open to the flush. It will not harm your engine if performed correctly.

Thanks to all
Now let me have it. Bring it. Be honest and cruel.

Pocket Trey

OH Forgot to mention that because my car is running cooler now that the fan noise I was complaining on my other thread is not as important to me now getting an E-Fan

I don't think I will actually since my fan only engages on first and second gear at the most. I cannot hear it after say 30MPH maybe 35MPH whereas before I could hear it all of the time. It was killing me. It was louder than my radio inside.

So that is one more plus for me doing this flush. I am at peace now knowing the car's lube system is clean and I can rely on it and knowing I can listen to the radio when I drive now LOL

Rogue_Wulff

MY GOD! That was nasty. Someone was using a very crappy oil in that car, for a very long time.

I have NEVER seen any rotary with that much crud in it. I'd be willing to bet the engine is running cooler now simply because it can actually circulate the oil, as designed. These engines are both cooled by water and the oil, which is the reason behind the oil cooler.

I still don't recommend using a flush in a rotary, however, if you are gonna do it, do this way.

Pocket Trey

I am in with your bet too. the diference in temp is so great that I am going to explore if it indeed has a tstat because I still cant believe that is running so cool.

Maybe because of that also it runs pepier too.

There are so many things I am glad about doing this flush that I can only recommend it to others. It really won't harm the engine if done right.

As far as the oil cooler flush I think it was a little overkill, but better safe that blown rotary LOL

Thanks all for the support an suggestions.

Rogue_Wulff

With that much crud in the pan, there's a good chance it was starving the engine for oil. This would reduce the amount of oil getting sprayed into rotors to cool them down. There's also a chance that the internal oil passages were partially clogged.
This excess heat had to go somewhere, so it was getting into the coolant thru increasing the temp of the surrounding metal.

I'm willing to bet this engine will last far longer now, than it would have if left alone.

Now that you have the oiling system cleaned out and flowing like it should, might as well flush the cooling system. It can't be much better, considering the lack of care it likely has to deal with.
Then, get some BG 44K or seafoam/ Berryman B12, and add to the fuel in order to flush out the fuel system. I run a can of B12 in a full tank at least once a year in my car. The first time I did this, I noticed a major improvement. Since then, I haven't seen much difference when I do it, but I like to keep everything flowing well. I also do this in my truck, and it has 225K showing. That reminds me, I haven't changed the fuel filter on the truck in over 100K........

cjf

iTrader: (1)

i'd say do not do it unless you know you have an issue !!!

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

nicely done, i'm still iffy about it, but that's just me, like i said, i wouldn't do it to my engine, but im glad you did it and got the results you wanted, it's the only way to do it sometimes i suppose, i respect your perseverance also :P . . . anyways, good job.

PercentSevenC

Man You Got Lucky, Glad it Worked Out in the End. (TM)

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Hahgagagaah!

84stock

iTrader: (5)

It never fails to amaze when someone asks for an opinion on what they want to do, and get soooo many opinions against it and then do it any way. I would have to bet you stuck you tongue on a frozen pole to see if it would stick in the winter. I would say you had a sadly neglected engine and got very lucky. Credit goes out to bravery and success in this case!!!

bliffle

With my old 85SE, which had 135k when I got it, all the fluids were filthy so I drained everything, put Redline MTF in transmission and redline LSD lube in diff, and Mobil 1 10w30 in engine. Then I observed the engine oil and changed it after a few hundred miles, changed it again a couple times until it ceased getting murky black and smelly quickly. I figure that way the old crud drained out with the short-term detergents. Seems to have worked since now at 170k the dipstick only shows color but no murk a few weeks after oil change.

I hesitate to do anything radical to an old engine for fear that a radical change in clearances will unleash some forces or cut loose some particles that could cause damage. Progressive cleaning with a detergent oil should be gradual enough to ease into a new operating condition, though.

Pocket Trey

I don't know about that.

How do you know you have an issue?

I bougth the car and was told I could pretty much drive it anywhere and I did. I drove it 3 hours from the sellers house to mine. At first of course I took it easy on the car but after it showed that indeed it was ok to drive it that far I put it at 70MPH and definately that was not a good idea (because of the crud in the pics).

Now I ask you. Do you absolutely know your car is good to go? If you are not absolutely certain or if you just purchased your ride, I would at the very least go to the parts store and aquire an oil pan gasket and just change the gasket out without doing the flush if you are still iffi about it. It will only cost $10 and you will have the peace of mind I enjoy today after doing mine.

Everyone has their opinion but I have shown here it can be done wiyhout damaging your engine. Now, just like in a piston engine; I only do this procedure once while I own the car just to give me a peace of mind.

Thanks
Juan

Pocket Trey

Thanks for the good thoughts. I know most of you thought I was crazy doing this.

It worked out for the best. I have a better longer lasting engine and I know the myth is busted.

Thanks

Pocket Trey

Thanks

I dont think it was luck though

Pocket Trey

What do you mean?

Pocket Trey

I think you are wrong.

I think no one was able to provide facts why I should not do it and, my experience working with turboshaft engines in aviation(very similar to our rotary engines) paid off.

We have the same procedure in aviation with our turboshaft engines. I think that if you only base your desicions on myths you will never acomplish yor mission.

My mission was to get my engine cleaned up wityhout breaking it. There is no luck on what I have just accomplished. I made an informed desicion and it was the right one and paid off.

PercentSevenC

You were given several answers as to why it's a bad idea. With all that crap in the engine, it's a good thing the oil jets in the e-shaft didn't get plugged or something equally disastrous. Plus, I'm sure it washed the oil film off of everything while it was running, introducing some wear. Not a big deal for you given how neglected that motor obviously was, but you certainly shouldn't make a habit of it. I still think it's a waste of time and money as long as you're taking care of your motor.

Pocket Trey

Alright enough with the i told you this and that. No one gave me definate facts as to why it was a bad thing on this engine.

All was said were myths no facts. The only one that was close twas the guy that mentioned the oil cooler. All others were just talking based on opinions not tech data.

The rest of your post is pretty accurate.

I do not recommend this as a habit however if your engine has been neglected like mine yes it is a PLUS.

I wish you were here and drove the car before and after. Your responses would not be the same I guarantee it.

I am telling you guys what my experience was with this procedure. If you don't believe the incredible difference that is felt and seen in my car then that's fine.

I know it made a world of difference.

Yes, as long as you are taking care of your motor you should not need this. What happens when you purchase a car and have no clue what has been done or not to it.

My car drove quite nicely, but in my mind there was this urge to do this flush. Obviously the car needed it badly. As far as taking the oil film yes but 4 1/2 minutes is noting compared to driving this car in the condition it was for hawever more miles.

I don't know if it would have lasted me 10-15K miles like that. I don't think it would have. Now I know it will last a lot longer with the proper maintenance.

Juan

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Well I'd like to see you disprove the myth that your tongue can't stick to a frosty pole at 20 below, or that your *** can't stick to a toilet seat with crazy glue. On that note, it's probably time to lock this thread so we can quit beating the guy up and forcing him to defend himself. He feels he was successful , we feel he was lucky , enough said.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

+1, good outcome!

I like threads like this. It reminds me when people said Borla would not work on rotary engines. Someone did it and look at where we are now.

I may do this on my car in the next few weeks as well.

Pocket Trey

This is idiotic now. I proved something thats was not proven before. Tongue and a frosty pole has been proven would not work. Give me something that has not been proven right or wrong. I will give it a try with the right information.

You don't have anything on this so shut up already. If you don't have anything good to add, go somewhere else and yap around to others like you that can't think outside the box.

Juan

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Try and have a sense of humor dude! That is why I gave the icons, so you wouldn't take it so seriously. Read "all" my comments, I did give positive feedback on your bravery to try something so many others disapproved of and succeeded (got lucky, lol, had to say that). We see growth through risk, failure and success. Just think about the original 10a with "6MM APEX SEALS" and how many 13b's popped in the 70's from inadequate lubrication. And now the rx7 puts out more peak hp that the original turbo II.