Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

It's doable for a rear steer, I got a 84' rabbit rack in mine for the past 5 years.
It took me 10 hours to fab up.
Gonna upgrade to Billy's sweet setup when I get some spare cash.
His design rocks!

fb44

did you add a joint? or rotate the rack?

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

Nope just copied the CP racing rack, they have since fell of the face of the earth and I don't have a copy of the installation instructions anymore with pics. Mine is a ghetto install so mine is a one off install that I would not recommend to anybody other then a expert or.....me, I was a Jet Engine technician in the USAF for 7 years working on the F-15C figher and B1B bomber.
I take my life in my hands everytime I drift.
I butt >< welded the splines of the lower steering shaft to fit the vw rack and the rod ends to as well. Never broke one, bent one and had to fab a new one but never a broken weld.

My welds are tight!

fb44

thats what I was thinking- about the steering shaft welding! great job!

82transam

iTrader: (18)

You're right its just under 40%, no other single share holder has more stock than Ford, that makes them the majority shareholder. Ford management has a great influence over what Mazda can and can't do. Not trying to get the thread off track, but seeing as I graduated with a degree in Finance and did a 20 page financial report and presentation on Mazda for one of my final projects i think I would know...

As for your original question; if you really want to make your own rack and pinion setup then by all means go for it. I don't recall the exact measurements off hand, but a few years ago I did some quick measurments off a NA Miata, and compared them to the FB and they were quite close, so you might be able to make something work there. The FC subframe has been done a few times and is known to work you would probably be better off going that route.....
Good luck, keep us updated!

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Well, what are you thinking for the setup? A rear-steer rabbit layout just needs to stay clear of the oil pan, or you can swap the knuckles left-right, make it front steer, and dodge or relocate the stay rods, and use lots of different racks.

How do you choose a rack, anyway? Given a junkyard full of Miatas, Rabbits, 'Stangs and Tauruses (the throwaway car of North America), where do you source it?

I'm happy with my ball nut - sector shaft truck steering, but I'm curious how you'd start from scratch. I've talked my way through Billy's setup with him, and why they made the changes they did, but I'm curious what your plans are, starting from a blank sheet.

fb44

swapping the spindles may be an option, I hadnt thought of that. and I could relocate the stay rods/strut rods.

for the FC swap, does anyone have final assembly pics? I need to know how it looks.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

FYI, the spindles can stay in-place, which would keep your calipers on the trailing side. You just need to swap the steering knuckles (probably easier just to swap the control arms w/ ball joints and knuckles).

fb44

so the knuckles would mount up on either side?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Yup. One bolt is longer than the other, but the holes are the same distance from the ball joint and on-center. No probs.

fb44

great! I will keep going with the Miata rack when I find one close.

just for my information, the FC subframe is only 1" wider on the sides then the FB subframe, it does bolt up with drilling, it allows the use of the stock suspension, except for the lower control arms, same brakes... so I change out the outer tie rods to fit the stock knuckles? what about mounting the stock engine and trans- 13b? into the FC?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Whoops, forget what I said about swapping control arms without the spindles - they have the flat that your steering stop bottoms out on. The arms and spindles need to stay paired up - just swap the knuckles.

You can check the fit of FC tie rods to the knuckles (don't even know that the taper is vertical on the FC, stupid me) and ream the holes out on your knuckles if the FC rod ends are bigger.

When you say
You lose me. Are you asking about how a FB front-mount engine would connect to an FC subframe? No idea.

fb44

okay, I thought the spindles have to stay the way they are. thanks for the help. I think the stock FC rods are too wide, even screwed all the way in. someone mentioned using different outer rods.

Brainmatter

I wish I was so lucky. You are correct, it is an easy to do adjustment. There are so many cars having this problem, and not all of them can be adjusted to meet the needs of the owner. My freeplay falls in under specs, IMHO the Mazda spec is too high. I adjusted mine anyway and the freeplay really is not all that bad, but I know with the rack and pinion kit, there will be virtually none. That is what I want. there is no conventional type steering gear that can match the precision of rack and pinion.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

The entire rack is to wide unless you move the inner control arm pivot point outboard. It is fine when you do the complete 2nd gen crossmember swap since the parts were designed that way.

You absolutely must think about bump steer before you choose a rack and its location.

-billy

Temp n2318r

Sometimes it's easier if you start with a clean slate. Ditch the struts. I think you're better off just putting in a subframe and entire modern front suspension setup. There are loads of options practically off-the-shelf, much better than you could ever hope to get with a cobbled up miata or FC hybrid. Most of the engineering will already be done, and you're not guessing about steering geometries. It just remains to weld it in and hook it up.

At the same time its worth contemplating, where you want to go with the engine, does it even make sense to retain the front mounts, vs. the FD or FC engine mounting locations. You end up killing another bird with the same stone. All this working around existing limitations in the suspension and chassis is a lot of work. Think about it.

fb44

I know this is going to be hard, unotherwise more people would be doing it.

as far as bumpsteer is considered, I will try to keep the tie rods as parallel to the ground as possible.

z-beater

Do you understand how crucial the angles are in steering? Not trying to be rude, but speaking from experience. You will want to sit down with a good suspension design book and read through it. With a road car it is important to make sure that everything is dead on.

I could explain it all to you but that would take hours of writing. Plus that is 1/2 the fun of it. Sounds like you are on th right track though.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Why?


-billy

fb44

to minimize bumpsteer. that is only one of the angles for me to keep right.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

You should pick up a few of the suspension books before you begin this process.
Not trying to discourage you with my post, just trying to be helpful.

These are my favorites:

http://www.amazon.com/Chassis-Engine...1009972&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Your-...1009972&sr=8-1

-billy

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Haha - the second one is in Billy's *******. I got a few pages into it before I realized that I was TOTALLY loosing track of time, and he's probably wondering what I'm doing in here.

Good book, from the couple pages I read.

Kentetsu

LMAO!!! "How to make your car handle" is an awesome book!

I've bought like five copies of it, because I loan it out to friends and never see it again. I just purchased another copy last week and am trying to find the time to review it since it's been a few years.

You've got good taste Billy!

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Dude....now that you mention it....I did wondering about that! That is some funny stuff! At least you did not make it to the bottom of the pile

Another good set of books is ALL the "to win" series. If you do not have these books you are missing some good reading. The metallurgy chapter in Engineer To Win can get a bit dry but worth the read.

-billy

fb44

you know, I read that book- how to make your car handle- years ago. I will dust it off and look through it again. a little refreshing couldnt hurt.