Ok I think that I am just flat out missing the slave cylinder but idk. I detached this from in front of the clutch petal. Can someone tell me what is missing or wrong with this. Or just how they hook up Bc I could just buy a master and slave cylinder and just start form new.

 

That's the clutch Master. Jump on rock auto and buy a new clutch Master, Slave, and new master-to-slave line. Based on the looks of that, I'd also consider a new Master brake cylinder.

 

There’s really nothing missing from that clutch master cylinder. In the pic I can see the pushrod linkage hanging on clutch pedal arm.

Check online at Rockauto for clutch master cylinder,slave cylinder and flex brake hose.
While you’re at it a Brake Master cylinder is not a waste of money.
you will need to fabricate a metal line that goes from clutch master to a bracket on the firewall that supports the junction of metal line to flexible hose.
There is a clip that holds line into bracket. I think it’s the same clip that holds brake line to strut in front of car.
When you get your new hydraulic clutch hose,pull the clip off the strut and see if it’s the right size to hold flex hose fitting in bracket on firewall,then take that clip with you to parts store to find a duplicate.
Take your flex brakehose and clutch master cylinder with you too and size up correct length steel line to run between clutch master and connection to flex hose at firewall. You may get lucky enough to obtain near perfect length of tubing with fittings flared on each end.

Buy the fittinged line in nickel copper. You can bend this by hand without any special tools.

When you get the clutch master cylinder,compare he mounting studs with your original cylinder. Often on aftermarket clutch masters for these cars the studs are not threaded to the end where they install in clutch master cylinder like the or ones are and when you tighten cylinder to firewall it’s still loose.
If you don’t have mounting nuts for slave cylinder,they are 8mmx1.25mm and you can double nut them on studs on cylinder clamped in a vise and remove them and swap them to your new clutch master cylinder and it will bolt up properly
Clitch slave cylinder is held to transmission bellhousing with two 8mm x 1.25mm x 30 mm bolts

I’ll measure hard clutch line in my car to give you a length to get real close to what you need and post here.

 

Wow that’s really helpful. So form what I understand the master and slave do not connect? The part about the tube was a bit confusing without seeing it but I’ll look into it more.

 

The clutch master cylinder bolts to the firewall and like brake lines are hard mounted.
The steel clutch line connects to flexible hydraulic clutch hose that connects into the slave cylinder which bolts onto trans bellhousing.
The flexible clutch hose is needed as engine/trans roll
on acceleration,deceleration,even cruise when chassis hits bumps and moves driveline components.
If metal clutch line was used to slave cylinder it would crack and break in just a few miles.
I’m away til tomorrow @ 11:30 i’ll snap pick of metal//hydraulic hose and bracket on firewall and post here so you can see what it looks like.

 

I replaced the master and slave cylinder on my 88 and got a great deal on parts from rockauto on line. Replaced the hose too that comes off the slave cylinder as it was dry rotted and cracking. Runs like new!

 

anytime there's issues with the clutch hydraulics, it's best to replace all components including the flex hose and flush out the hard line.

 

Where is the slave cylinder located?

 

Slave is located on the transmission bellhousing.

 

Thanks

 

A word of caution, keep the 2 mounting studs from your old clutch master. They can be removed by jamming two nuts together on the stud and unscrewing it from the cast housing. New clutch master's have been known to come with new studs that have too long of an un-threaded shoulder (in the middle of the stud). You don't know it, until after you have it all mounted and are unable to fully tighten the housing down against the fire wall. Save yourself some time and a headache by checking the studs in the new unit. If in doubt, put the old ones in the new master before mounting.

 

the LUK master is the one with the wrong studs.

 

Speaking from experience - just like you guys here - finding out the stud flat is too long really sucks after you've spent an hour on your back under the dash turning a 12mm nut 1/8 turn at a time with your smallest box-end, having to flip it over every 1/8 turn to get a good bite on the nut, only to find that you have to UNDO it all because the Clutch MC is flopping around.

I forgot about this until you guys mentioned it, and now I'm in the habit of inspecting and comparing parts very closely before I put the new one in...

 

I can actually fit my ratchet under there. I fidnt have any problems.

 

Centric Master also had the wrong studs. I just used washers on the inside, but that meant it was even harder to get that top nut installed. I ended up removing the plunger from the pedal and that made life much easier.

 

 

Forgot to measure length of hard line,post it tomorrow.

 

18" is the length of hard line needed from clutch master cylinder to slave cylinder flex hose connection at firewall bracket. You might be able to find that length or something very close in length with fittings on each end.