Master! Master! What's the bore that I've been after? (Master Brake Cylinder)
#26
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#28
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when you are not braking hard it makes the brakes feel amazing
#30
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Forgot to mention that I have FC 4-piston calipers on the front. The pedal feels mushy to me with my 7/8" MC. I started a thread on this a while back, and I think you're the one that suggested the Patrol MC
Brake feel is subjective, and I'm probably spoiled by my other 2 cars, which have very firm, immediate pedals. YMMV
Brake feel is subjective, and I'm probably spoiled by my other 2 cars, which have very firm, immediate pedals. YMMV
Before: FB 7/8" bore MC, FB prop valve, FC 4-piston front calipers, FB GSL-SE rear calipers, braided stainless Teflon hoses, StopTech pads
After: Nissan Patrol 1" bore MC, Wilwood rear prop valve, FC 4-piston front calipers, FB GSL-SE rear calipers, braided stainless Teflon hoses, Carbotech AX-6 pads
The Nissan Patrol MC is large. The reservoirs are totally separate and totally cylindrical, which makes them look huge. The port placement would have required a lot of tricky work to adapt to the OEM lines, so I started from scratch and made all new stainless lines with silver-soldered banjos at the MC.
There are internal residual pressure valves at both the front and rear ports (this thing was designed for drum brakes). Initially I left them in, just to see what it would feel like. The feel with the RPVs was awesome! Almost zero dead zone, firm and linear pedal, good stopping power. But . . . I checked all 4 wheels and decided the brake drag was unacceptable for a car that I put 10K miles on each year.
So out came the RPVs, and the experience was almost the same, except for a small dead zone. No brake drag.
Now I have brakes that I like! It was a lot of work, but I would definitely do it again.
After: Nissan Patrol 1" bore MC, Wilwood rear prop valve, FC 4-piston front calipers, FB GSL-SE rear calipers, braided stainless Teflon hoses, Carbotech AX-6 pads
The Nissan Patrol MC is large. The reservoirs are totally separate and totally cylindrical, which makes them look huge. The port placement would have required a lot of tricky work to adapt to the OEM lines, so I started from scratch and made all new stainless lines with silver-soldered banjos at the MC.
There are internal residual pressure valves at both the front and rear ports (this thing was designed for drum brakes). Initially I left them in, just to see what it would feel like. The feel with the RPVs was awesome! Almost zero dead zone, firm and linear pedal, good stopping power. But . . . I checked all 4 wheels and decided the brake drag was unacceptable for a car that I put 10K miles on each year.
So out came the RPVs, and the experience was almost the same, except for a small dead zone. No brake drag.
Now I have brakes that I like! It was a lot of work, but I would definitely do it again.
The following users liked this post:
Richard Miller (10-14-18)
#31
Damn, it did start!
Thread Starter
wow, that looks amazing.
#32
Rotary Enthusiast
I think I would enjoy more shots of that engine bay.
#34
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WiringSpecialties.com
wiringspecialties.com is a resource I learned of only recently.
It has some nice features, such as search for connectors by the number of pins.
I used this feature recently to get replacement oil pressure connector.
https://www.wiringspecialties.com/1joilprsecom.html
That part is for a supra, but is an exact match for the FD. Worked great.
The connector to the alternator can also be found, again for a supra, but is the correct connector.
It has some nice features, such as search for connectors by the number of pins.
I used this feature recently to get replacement oil pressure connector.
https://www.wiringspecialties.com/1joilprsecom.html
That part is for a supra, but is an exact match for the FD. Worked great.
The connector to the alternator can also be found, again for a supra, but is the correct connector.
#36
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