blwfly

iTrader: (4)

ok i read a thread about a dude puttin a breather on the filler tube for venterlation purpose heres what i brought 20bucks


also just got my carter pump etc ull see in pic

but made one mistake on fpr i missread and got the wrong one im gonna still try it and if it floods my carb ill just have to get the right one its the holly 4.5-9psi

is it possible to run the nikki at 4.5 from what iv read thats way to much i was talkin to kimsfb and she said she was runnin her nikki at 4psi so im stuck till i try it

is there a way to modify the fpr or am i dreaming lol

if searched on munting the pump and im gonna mount it to the chassis so its vertical where could i find some caulk matt? walmart? just for less vibration for the pump or should i just mount it metal to metal seeing the pump has rubber gromets on the bracket

ohwell thanks for ya time
chris

Kim's FB

Same set up I had looks good. That Carter is kinda loud. I remember people asking me what the heck was that noise each time I went to turn it on. Very reliable pump though. Now all you need is the air cleaner mod with a k&N like I have that's collecting dust. LOL Hint hint. JK.

I did the same alternator, how do you like it? And why is that 2nd gen coil not hooked up?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Do you have an old mouse pad laying around, try that for your vibe pad.

inuissus_cendi

smart man... (or woman)

that should quiet it down too. I love a good homebrew solution. I just might try that when I install my own Carter.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

^^^
i reckon i would of never thought of it
kims fb- it gave me a decent 16volt charge (not sure if thats correct im little drunk on this american beverage called mike's lol) ahh i hooked the normal coils up when i was trouble shooting as to why my car was runnin for 10secons and the help of searching+askin members question my solution was the pump but till i hook it all up we will find out

i think i still have a little more grindin/adjusting on the alt as it dosnt look 100% with the engine pully but will do for now

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

bump i see roberts on answer my q on the nikki psi

REVHED

The only difference between the 1-4psi reg. and the 4.5-9psi reg. is the tension of the spring. You can actually buy the spring seperately and just swap it over.

There's no reason the carb shouldn't run on 4.5 psi. It just means you'll run a bit richer on the top end as it will take slightly longer for the emulsion tubes to be exposed.

sgieldon

Hey Chris;
Looks like your headed in the right direction with KimsFB and RevHeads suggestions.
If you need the Springs for that Holley Reg let me know and we can hook some time this week. I have the Lighter and Heavy Springs you can have for free w/Instructions.

Type in Carter in the Search Function. There are some good Ideas where to Install That Pump so it won't be so loud.
Rubber Bushings will be your Friend when it comes to the Noise Issue.
If you have some old Shock Absorber Rubber Bushings layin around use those in between the Pump and the Frame or where ever you decide to mount it. Allittle extreme but works great.
I have some extras of those also if you want them. Free Also of course.
As far as the Fuel Pressure and Stock Nikki Stay with 3.75-4.75psi.
Are you using a Liquid Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge???
If so you will get different Readings when the Bay Warms Up.
Been thru that dilema many times. Kinda of a Pain in the ***.

PM me today if you want to get together this week.
Steve
Sgieldon

Rotorychick

I have a liquid filled guage and when I first start the car it will read like 5.5-6psi and when warmed up after a lap around the block or two it will go to 3.5psi steady.... Which number do I believe.......

Rx7Kidd

its kinda hard to know which one, since its liquid filled the density of the liquid changes your readings, when its warm it will reed lower because no resistance, id say look at the reading when warm.

saltyslug

my old pump would surge then drop back down and hold steady at 3.5 also. I think it is fine, mine ran great NA.

chedda_j

[QUOTE=Kim's FB] Now all you need is the air cleaner mod with a k&N like I have that's collecting dust. LOL Hint hint. JK.
QUOTE]

or how about a airbox that mounts to the stock carb/after market, offset so that it meets the middle of the hood with the ramstyle scoop...i was thinking just a 14 inch wide CF or FB scoop, even its just the glue on ones.

btw looks good.

81gsl12a

iTrader: (1)

is it a holley fule psi reg.? if so alot of them are crap and dont hold the psi you set them at.....

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

i got a holly fpr

thanks everyone ill be insatlling this today ounce i eat and minilmze my hangover and seeing its stoped raining yayyyyy
and yes i haven been lookin at the k&n filters that sit on the carb and give a 360 induction
kinda like the one at rb but with no lid that will be later
well myns a liquard one looks cool nice and chrome i know itl be a bitch but i couldnt find a 5psi gauge.
ill try the mouse pad for now put ill still be interseted in your idea steve
thanks steve ill take your offer ill pm u later
thanks all an ill give an update either today or tomorro

chedda_j

OH ya, btw, youd be suprised how much dust that a KN lets through, they let through alot more air, but they do let alot of dust in. THey clain to let in less but ive seen a couple of other forum topics speaking of how oil gets dirtier alot quicker. The best filter on the planet in my opinion is a foam one but they clog really quickly. Those true blue ones are good.

Rotary Weasel

I've had a K&N panel filter (SE) in my 7 for a little over a year now, actually more like 2 years...cleaned it a few months ago...knocked a pile of dirt out of it!
then re-oiled it..you have to oil it correctly, or it will let dirt past it.
Having been oiling my TB's as of late..my intake components are very clean..far better shape, than any piston engine car I've ever owned.. the RP goes in purple and comes out still purple...where am I going with this?
the K&N does it's job..I'm obviously not getting any significant dirt past it


and yes blwfly..very nifty!

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

you like my slang sometimes at work no one can understand me
really funny start givin them **** and they just get confused

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

you like my slang sometimes at work no one can understand me
really funny start givin them **** and they just get confused

ohwell back to the pump i had to bike 3miles so i could get some 90 degree fitting for the pump damn i havnt riden a bike like 5yrs ago

Rotary Weasel

man...I haven't taken a bus, or rode a bike in years...I do however get around to walking and such..wouldn't want the legs to atrophy

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

i noticed in a pic some one removed this thingy and got a better mounting position
do i evan need it? it shoulds like its got a ball bearing like its a non return thing

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

If that's what I think it is, then yeah, you can remove it.

I got rid of mine. My fuel pump blew because that thing was too much of a restriction, too close to the fuel pump. IIRC it's a check valve to stop fuel flow if the car flips over.

If my car flips over, it'll be the least of my worries. I'll try to remember to turn off the key, though.

Jon

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

yeah iv been in upside down cars amazing how they will still run with no worries till ya come to ya sences and turn the key

thanks this gives me heaps of space for mounting
many thanks

chris

MosesX605

I wouldn't just run a breather filter on the oil filler neck if I were you. I tried it in the past and it wasn't sufficient to remove all the moisture in the oil, which didn't go away until I used a PCV valve plumbed into a vacuum source on the intake manifold. Too much moisture in the oil can cause rust in the filler tube and other not so good effects.

Just my .02

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

thats an excelent poit you have there could you show a pic how you have it setup i couldnt quite understand how it worked on some threads i had read

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

ok heres an update on my pump i have hooked it all up successfully no probs and i also took the adjuster out of the fpr and was able to get 2psi on my gauge compard to 7psi which was on the gauge at first and filled my bowls to max

now i have the bowls back to normal i have no gas leaks at all i sugest usin a little teflon on the pipe fittings and i also followd what some one said to get at least 3 threads back so the teflon wont go into the system

after at least 2hrs of mucking about i still cant get the car to go
i got fuel"nice squirts from the jets" awsome spark,timmings where i had last when the car was goin im goin insane hehehe

for between the bracket and chassis i used ruber from a tire tube semed good enough
ohh and also the carters arnt too lound little bit more than the origanl pump