Lights go Down but not UP ?!?!?
#1
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Lights go Down but not UP ?!?!?
First of all neither of the headlights would work. Had power but would not operate. Both motors were frozen. Bought replacement motors. Both motors turned freely. Installed them and ran a check. Neither would pop-up.
When I rotate the **** by hand the lights will open (manually). When the lights reach the full open position the motor takes over and closes them.
What am I missing ?
Can someone take a pic of the fuseable like for these motors ?
I would appreciate all advice.
Thanks to all....
Hootster.........
#2
I can has a Hemi? Yes...
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Re: Lights go Down but not UP ?!?!?
Originally posted by Hootster
First of all neither of the headlights would work. Had power but would not operate. Both motors were frozen. Bought replacement motors. Both motors turned freely. Installed them and ran a check. Neither would pop-up.
When I rotate the **** by hand the lights will open (manually). When the lights reach the full open position the motor takes over and closes them.
What am I missing ?
Can someone take a pic of the fuseable like for these motors ?
I would appreciate all advice.
Thanks to all....
Hootster.........
First of all neither of the headlights would work. Had power but would not operate. Both motors were frozen. Bought replacement motors. Both motors turned freely. Installed them and ran a check. Neither would pop-up.
When I rotate the **** by hand the lights will open (manually). When the lights reach the full open position the motor takes over and closes them.
What am I missing ?
Can someone take a pic of the fuseable like for these motors ?
I would appreciate all advice.
Thanks to all....
Hootster.........
My guess is that you have a switch problem, likely with the headlights "on" switch or the actual headlight retractor switch on the dash. They are known to fail. Check out a haynes manual for confirmation.
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
on the side of the motor is a realy, when yuo turn the lights on its puts a + charge to one side of the realy, when you turn off it puts a + charge to the other side, check it is getting the + charge to the relay
its a real pain in the butt to work it all out, just rewired my whole car and they take a bit of time, if you have a FSM you can see it in the wiring digramme
its a real pain in the butt to work it all out, just rewired my whole car and they take a bit of time, if you have a FSM you can see it in the wiring digramme
#5
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
One shot fix - this one comes from experience, and it has nothing to do with your switches inside the car, the headlight 'cleaning' (manual up) switch, or any short circuit.
*** Replace your headlight fusible link with a known good one ***
No kidding. Don't waste your time trying to track down an electrical problem - the problem is a bad fusible link for the headlights. BTW, it will test fine with an ohmmeter, but under load, it will not work correctly - trust me.
Go and do it and report back. HTH,
*** Replace your headlight fusible link with a known good one ***
No kidding. Don't waste your time trying to track down an electrical problem - the problem is a bad fusible link for the headlights. BTW, it will test fine with an ohmmeter, but under load, it will not work correctly - trust me.
Go and do it and report back. HTH,
#6
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I had the same problem, headlights go down, but won't come up, until I switched back to low beams. Now it works fine, just whenever I flip the switch for high beams, they won't go back up.
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#8
JDGJr
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Originally Posted by LongDuck
One shot fix - this one comes from experience, and it has nothing to do with your switches inside the car, the headlight 'cleaning' (manual up) switch, or any short circuit.
*** Replace your headlight fusible link with a known good one ***
No kidding. Don't waste your time trying to track down an electrical problem - the problem is a bad fusible link for the headlights. BTW, it will test fine with an ohmmeter, but under load, it will not work correctly - trust me.
Go and do it and report back. HTH,
*** Replace your headlight fusible link with a known good one ***
No kidding. Don't waste your time trying to track down an electrical problem - the problem is a bad fusible link for the headlights. BTW, it will test fine with an ohmmeter, but under load, it will not work correctly - trust me.
Go and do it and report back. HTH,
Does anyone have useable manufacturer part #s for the green, white and black wires, and a recommendation on where to get them rather quickly?
thanks
#10
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Sent email. thanks!
More questions:
1 - how can you tell if the links are really bad (w/o using a spare)? they don't seem to look differently on the outside, etc.
2 - do most people just ignore these until something goes wrong, or is it a good idea to keep spares on hand?
3 - looks like mine got brittle from the heat and time. this has to be common, right?
More questions:
1 - how can you tell if the links are really bad (w/o using a spare)? they don't seem to look differently on the outside, etc.
2 - do most people just ignore these until something goes wrong, or is it a good idea to keep spares on hand?
3 - looks like mine got brittle from the heat and time. this has to be common, right?
#11
'84 RX-7 GSL
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My problem is kinda similar, my headlights go up but not down....
If some one could help me with that, it would be great...
also, the same time the headlights started to mess up, my interior lights and running light won't come on...
help?
If some one could help me with that, it would be great...
also, the same time the headlights started to mess up, my interior lights and running light won't come on...
help?
#12
JDGJr
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Originally Posted by sixstar
my running light won't come on...
help?
help?
My dial lights don't work, either, but I want to get the fuseable link issue resolved first - maybe it'll correct my other problems.
#14
JDGJr
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Stole this from a previous message. do a search for many discussions of this topic:
Your fusible link is gone. There is a little brown box kind of thing on the drivers side strut tower. It has three loops of what looks like wire comming out of one side and the normal looking wires at the other. The loops are fusible links. The center one is the one you want. Its called the retractor. You should be able to find one from someone here or at a junkyard. Just DO NOT replace it with plain wire. These are special links made to burn out with a certain load. I read of a way to replace these with normal fuses but I will let someone else explain this.
Your fusible link is gone. There is a little brown box kind of thing on the drivers side strut tower. It has three loops of what looks like wire comming out of one side and the normal looking wires at the other. The loops are fusible links. The center one is the one you want. Its called the retractor. You should be able to find one from someone here or at a junkyard. Just DO NOT replace it with plain wire. These are special links made to burn out with a certain load. I read of a way to replace these with normal fuses but I will let someone else explain this.
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