1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Let me ride in your 4-port 13b 1st gen

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Old 02-07-06, 12:17 PM
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EFF IT!!, ive got nearly everything for the N/A setup. I'm just going to do that.

Can someone tell me... Do i need the S5 e-shaft when using S5 rotors in a early 13b?
Old 02-07-06, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Maguire
EFF IT!!, ive got nearly everything for the N/A setup. I'm just going to do that.

Can someone tell me... Do i need the S5 e-shaft when using S5 rotors in a early 13b?
no, use the old style e-shaft.
Old 02-07-06, 01:29 PM
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thanks. S5 stationary gears and counter balances though, right?
Old 02-07-06, 05:10 PM
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i beleive that you just need the counter balances and the flywheel
Old 02-07-06, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Maguire
thanks. S5 stationary gears and counter balances though, right?
right.
Old 02-07-06, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Maguire
thanks. S5 stationary gears and counter balances though, right?
Did you ever get that -SE motor torn down?
Old 02-07-06, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by drunkclever
so basically if I want something with less hassel, and cheaper.. go with the 13B 4-port.

If I want something thats going to respond to my foot mashing, give me more of a hassel, cost more.. go with the t2.

I can toss a t2 into my bitch for a lil over 1650.
I can make and toss a 13B 4-port for how much? (i got the 12A and the 13B allready)


Another thing to worry about is noise level of your exhaust??
Less hassel depends on what hassels you!
If wiring EFI and having a computor is a hassel,then yes the 4 port carb is better.If tuning and cold whether running is a hassel,then the EFI 13B(N/A or TII) is better.
Thats the best part of the FC engine swap,its ready to run...no tuning,no guessing,no trial and error period(provided all the EFI systems are working/installed right).The factory metered air EFI also lends itself well to mods,automatically adjusting for increased airfow from exhaust and intake changes.No jets to change or standlone ECU to reprogram.

Cost of the TII swap also doenst have to be as expensive since the TII engines are common and not ridiculously expensive.Tracking down the old 13B 4 ports is getting tough,I lucked out finding mine in a wrecking yard RX-4.Making a 4 port 13B is a viable option, but requires a rebuild and parts tracking/aquisition.Buying a full Jspec TII engine gives you nearly everything you need to get up and running,in one package.With a made 13B,usually your gonna be carbed,so you have to figure in the cost of a carb/intake setup and what exhaust system your gonna run......and of course theres smog legality and fuel effeciency,both of which are up to the indiviual,in terms of importance.A fast TII swap can net you 12-20MPG and full smog legal status.

And to answer 13B100shoot's question....
A bone stock 13BT transplant at stock boost levels(6-8psi) will get you in the low 14's to high 13's depending on traction/driver.Its VERY easy to bring up the boost and make another 30-40 HP with little $$$,so anywhere in the mid to low 13's is completely viable if you can get it to the ground.I ran 13.5's all day long with slipping tires and a stock S4 engine/turbo/TMIC, hitting 12-13psi.
Old 02-08-06, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
Less hassel depends on what hassels you!
If wiring EFI and having a computor is a hassel,then yes the 4 port carb is better.If tuning and cold whether running is a hassel,then the EFI 13B(N/A or TII) is better.
Thats the best part of the FC engine swap,its ready to run...no tuning,no guessing,no trial and error period(provided all the EFI systems are working/installed right).The factory metered air EFI also lends itself well to mods,automatically adjusting for increased airfow from exhaust and intake changes.No jets to change or standlone ECU to reprogram.

Cost of the TII swap also doenst have to be as expensive since the TII engines are common and not ridiculously expensive.Tracking down the old 13B 4 ports is getting tough,I lucked out finding mine in a wrecking yard RX-4.Making a 4 port 13B is a viable option, but requires a rebuild and parts tracking/aquisition.Buying a full Jspec TII engine gives you nearly everything you need to get up and running,in one package.With a made 13B,usually your gonna be carbed,so you have to figure in the cost of a carb/intake setup and what exhaust system your gonna run......and of course theres smog legality and fuel effeciency,both of which are up to the indiviual,in terms of importance.A fast TII swap can net you 12-20MPG and full smog legal status.

And to answer 13B100shoot's question....
A bone stock 13BT transplant at stock boost levels(6-8psi) will get you in the low 14's to high 13's depending on traction/driver.Its VERY easy to bring up the boost and make another 30-40 HP with little $$$,so anywhere in the mid to low 13's is completely viable if you can get it to the ground.I ran 13.5's all day long with slipping tires and a stock S4 engine/turbo/TMIC, hitting 12-13psi.

I forworded this to my wife ....
Old 02-08-06, 11:00 PM
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Heh,heh....yea,Im slightly biased towards the TII swap.But rightfully so,its the best engine Ive ever put in my car,and Ive done them all.The current engine is my 5th upgrade engine in 10 years.The 12A's got fun but still anemic,then the 76 13B 4 port raised the bar by providing torque,whcih I wasnt used to.Eventually,I got tired of rough cold weather running and not being able to pass smog,so TII EFI was the next logical step.
I'd never even SEEN a TII engine in person when I gathered up all my S4 TII stuff from another lucky find at the same wrecking yard.
3 months of research and 1 week of wrenching and I was up and running.More HP,better fuel milage and smog legal to boot....cant beat that.The infusion of power and driveability spurned me to fork out the 4000 bucks for a VERY good Mazdatrix streetport S5 block, when my S4 block went south from a bad water seal.The switch to a full S5 engine control system and a hybrid TO4B just made a great setup even sweeter,with smoother EFI,better off-boost power and a real check engine light.I'd drive my car anywhere with no worries.When I drove 1000 miles to and from SS8 last year,I just got in and went,with no hesitation.Im at over 30K miles and 4+ years with zero problems....
Old 02-09-06, 01:39 AM
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i'd say stick NA if you are into corners, straight line go turbo.

NA's really have a advantage in corners since they are so predictable, turbo cornering is another subject all together.

one major reason i love the 13b is that i can go flat out in a corner and keep the momentum up without worrying about losing traction at speed (and even if i do i know how much its going to lose). turbo's spike, boost creep, etc.

altho yes a TII swap if you want to blow the bux is a better engine, hands down.
Old 02-09-06, 02:00 AM
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I'm doing the 13B 4-port swap into my '83 GS... Gonna swap the hubs/diff out for a GSL-SE unit, do a HUGE streetport , and shoot for some 48mm+ sidedraft Weber's... Looking for a 13 second all motor DD... Then I got my FC for the turbo powah...
Old 02-09-06, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Paradox
i'd say stick NA if you are into corners, straight line go turbo.

NA's really have a advantage in corners since they are so predictable, turbo cornering is another subject all together.

one major reason i love the 13b is that i can go flat out in a corner and keep the momentum up without worrying about losing traction at speed (and even if i do i know how much its going to lose). turbo's spike, boost creep, etc.

altho yes a TII swap if you want to blow the bux is a better engine, hands down.

Very good point.
If you go turbo,be prepared to change your driving habits considerably.If you dont use caution and restraint,youll be "straight to jail" speeding,or youll be spinning out of control, when the boost hits.
There is something to be said for the fun and thrill of flat out beating on a slightly underpowered sportscar......
Old 02-10-06, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by clean85owner
And that's exactly where we differ. My car is a daily driver. It has to run all day, everyday, and my set up did it very, very well for 10 years. High 13s aren't quick enough for a daily driver?

Personally, I like knowing the fact that because I only have ~200hp, I can run a clutch that won't absolutely destroy my leg in stop and go traffic. I like knowing that becuase I don't have a turbo running at 8 million degrees, my car won't over heat in traffic. I like knowing that I can ride my clutch some in stop and go traffic and not worry about being the cause of the traffic jam.

It's all what your intentions are. If I wanted a car to go really fast, surely, I wouldn't be running N/A; and naturally, if I wanted to make 100,000 trouble free miles on an engine, I wouldn't have a t-60 strapped to the side.

It's all in what you have your RX-7 for. You have a car that is fast as ****, but is hardly used. I have a car that quick, and will last as long as a rotary should.

BTW, stock numbers are in the 17s, with the -SE maybe getting into the 16s. They weren't made to be quarter mile queens. I truly think of them as the Japanese itteration of a classic British sports car.

Powerful? No.
Handling? Pretty damn good for the times.
Fun? You couldn't have more fun with a gun, cocaine, and a Russian *****.

Not too mention, I like to keep it old school, and it really doesn't get much more old school that a streetported 13B 4 port with a Mikuni side draft carb.
I thought the SE ran a 15.9 stock?




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