RPM around 4500 RPM, then set ur timing as indicated in prior post. But before you do, either replace the main pulley with RB or do the YAW pulley set up. I dont recommend advancing the timing wihout seeing a timing mark. Dont take chances as it will save you $$ in long run. Guestimate is ok for piston since you can hear it "PING". I have seen guys set their timing without the marks but its either they have blown their motor OR their car ran like **** on street racing. As usual, my recommendation is to do it right the first time.

 

Thanks for the info!!!!!

 

np. I also took pix of a stock flywheel and aluminum flywheel this morning but I had to leave early for a meeting. I will upload it during lunch.

 

back of the flywheel (sample is a S5). Pay attention to the flat side which is standard for all stock RX flywheel.


aluminum flywheel with rear counter weight. Remember, once installed, the key is facing the passenger side

 

ok now that i move my pully where it should have bin in the first place, how do i time it? i mean i know that i lign up the notch with the pin, but the car runs like ****, wont keep idling once the choke is off and lakcs power when its timed where it should be. but when its timed using the leading coil the car runs so nice. Will this hurt the engine by timing it like this?
can all this **** by caused my dis shaft moving a little from left to right (like there is a little play on the shaft) and you know what else is odd when the pull was off 180* i could time the car using rotor #2 and the car would run fine, but now that i moved it 180* and its not runing good when i time it? what im i missing here and how can this be ( if i take my dis and tun it 180* it run, if i take the leading and traling coil wires and swap them the car runs the sam, if i take the spark plug wires and cross them it wont start, wtf? moving the dis 180* sould change the timing but lost making the car not run wright? ( i do know where how the dis is suppost to be) but ya can some one please clear this mess up?

 

Hey man, can you clear this up for me? You've stated twice now that you are using the leading coil to set the timing. Are you using the wire that goes from the dizzy to the coil to time this?

You probably know this, but just to make sure. You should use the front, bottom spark plug wire to set the lead timing. Bottom rear plug wire is used for trailing.

I probably just read you wrong, but wanted to make this clear just in case you were trying to use the coil wire to set the timing.....

 

here about something like this:

1. first problem.
2. tried this.
3. now its doing this

 

yes i do know what spark plug i need to use to time it but when i time the car using leading weire #1 and set the timing mark where it should be the car runs like **** and has a had time accelerating. but if i use the leading coil wire it run fine and really responsive like better then my efi 323. now if i use the timing mark and leading#1 to time the car it idles at 100rpm. but if i use the leading coil wire it runs at 700-800 ish rpm.

??

1. Whats is the worst that can happen to the car if the timeing is off? because i think i just might use the leading coil wire to set the timing its seams to be the only thing wrking good

 

Okay, with this information I can almost put my finger on the problem. I know I know the answer to this one, but haven't slept in nearly 48hrs.... I'm sure someone can answer this before I wake up, but if not then hopefully I'll have remembered by then.

Are you sure that your spark plug wires are routed correctly? From cap L1 to plug L1 etc....?

 

yes i looked at the book (incase the store sold me the wrong cap) i looked at what the cap sayed and its all good

 

yes i looked at the book (incase the store sold me the wrong cap) i looked at what the cap sayed and its all good

 

Immanuelle-

You might want to start a new thread with just this latest information in it. This one is getting so long that people might not want to read through the whole thing.

The fact that you can get it to run by using the coil lead, rather than the plug lead, is the key to this whole matter. I'm not sure if its a misaligned dizzy or maybe your pulley is on wrong. Something is not matching up though, and I'm sure that if the right person sees this info he will be able to nail it down no problem. Sorry I can't help you myself, sleep didn't seem to shake anything loose, but I'll keep chewing on it and let you know if I can come up with something. Hang in there man!

 

But then you have to remove the front bolt to see the key....???? Which could in turn drop the bearing causeing a bigger mess espically if the motor is already in the car... Or am I missing something...???

 

yes you have to remove the front bolt to see the key - thats why you can either use the flywheel trick OR remove the 2 front spark plugs and insert a screw driver or something similar to verify that the face of the rotor is parallel with the driver side of the housing.

In regards to dropping the bearings, the pulley actually comes in 2 parts: Remove the 4 10mm bolts, tap it slightly, and then the pulley should come apart into two parts. As long as you dont remove the main hub, you dotn have to worry about the bearings etc etc. Also, I mentioned that the earlier pulleys has a rivet that you will need to remove prior to separating the pulley===this is where the mazdatrix trick comes in handy. See the 1st picture.

The other site is very colorful but I prefer YAW's timing marks.

 

You may want to check he dizzy is set right. Put it on true top dead center. And pull the dizzy. Set the ailiment marks together and you are golden. But it back in and make sure all your wires are in the right place. Should be good for fine tunning the timing.