just installed 2gcdfis and got a question?????
06-13-05, 02:26 AM
#27
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: oregon
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Disconnect the positive side of the coil. - 7mm nut (you will have to take the plastic cover with L1, L2 on it, off) thats this wire it doesnt say to ground it
06-13-05, 03:11 AM
#28
my fb is older than me
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Jose
Posts: 690
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i attempted this on saturday. failed badly..... i ended up running only trailing on the leading dizzy. wat i dont understand is how the 2nd gen coil would work with no ignitor in it let alone not connected to the dizzy.
someone help me out here too. ill take a pic of my coil tomorrow.
someone help me out here too. ill take a pic of my coil tomorrow.
06-13-05, 03:19 AM
#29
Lives on the Forum
The 2nd gen coil gets its signal from the 1st gen ignitor. Basically, just forget about the 2nd gen ignitor and think of it as replacing your coil. Once the modification of the 2nd gen coil's wiring is done, you just hook up the old coil's wires to the new coil...
Then back at the distributor cap, you can take all of your trailing wires (spark plug and high tension) and move them to the leading positions on the cap. This is not necessary though, so you might as well make sure the rest of the system is running right before doing this part.
Then back at the distributor cap, you can take all of your trailing wires (spark plug and high tension) and move them to the leading positions on the cap. This is not necessary though, so you might as well make sure the rest of the system is running right before doing this part.
06-13-05, 03:20 AM
#30
Lives on the Forum
If I can, I will try to take some detailed pics of the finished assembly for ya. After I get home from work, and maybe after I sleep (no sleep since Sat morn...
)
)
06-13-05, 12:21 PM
#32
Okay guys. Everyone is getting confused here. It really isn't too complicated. It is just like adding a replacement coil as Kentetsu said. I think some confusion from dumped82fb is due to the fact that he has the brown wire going to the ballast resistor instead of the black. 
Maybe they made them both ways. It shouldn't matter what side the ballast is on, just so it is in the circuit.
Dumpedfb82, for the way you have it wired, do the following:
- connect the brown wire that you disconnected back to the coil +
- connect power (from the stock + coil terminal) to where the brown wire exits the top of the 2nd gen coil pack.
- connect the YG (yellow wire w/ green stripe) to the 2nd gen coil - (under the L1 L2 cover). You can remove the black wire that was there.
- mount the coil to the drivers strut tower or wherever is convienient.
- you are now done. The coil gets grounded though its mounting bolts. If you want to make sure you have a good ground, connect a wire from one of the mounting bolts and connect to a good ground on the chassis or directly to the battery - terminal.
Hope this makes sense. I am glad you took a pic. Otherwise we would have never figured it out (my coil and others I have seen used the black wire to the ballast, while yours uses the brown).
Kent
Maybe they made them both ways. It shouldn't matter what side the ballast is on, just so it is in the circuit. Dumpedfb82, for the way you have it wired, do the following:
- connect the brown wire that you disconnected back to the coil +
- connect power (from the stock + coil terminal) to where the brown wire exits the top of the 2nd gen coil pack.
- connect the YG (yellow wire w/ green stripe) to the 2nd gen coil - (under the L1 L2 cover). You can remove the black wire that was there.
- mount the coil to the drivers strut tower or wherever is convienient.
- you are now done. The coil gets grounded though its mounting bolts. If you want to make sure you have a good ground, connect a wire from one of the mounting bolts and connect to a good ground on the chassis or directly to the battery - terminal.
Hope this makes sense. I am glad you took a pic. Otherwise we would have never figured it out (my coil and others I have seen used the black wire to the ballast, while yours uses the brown).
Kent
06-13-05, 07:03 PM
#33
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: oregon
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
- connect the brown wire that you disconnected back to the coil +
does this mean the wire on the other side of the ballest resister connected to the stock 2nd gen coils + underneath the l1l2 cover goes back on?????
does this mean the wire on the other side of the ballest resister connected to the stock 2nd gen coils + underneath the l1l2 cover goes back on?????
06-13-05, 07:23 PM
#35
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: oregon
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
Yes. One end of the wire will go to coil + (under the L1 L2 cover). The other end (where it comes out of the top of the coil) will connect to 12v (coil + of the stock coil).
the bottom wire number 1 is connected to the stock + side of the coil and the top wire number 2 is connected to nothing where do i connect the top wire number 2
06-13-05, 07:39 PM
#37
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
heh, you are basically switching the wires on the stock leading coils to the second gen leading coil (+ to +. - to -), except that the negative wire goes through the resistor first. i'm in the process of doing this upgrade right now, and the only problem i encountered is that the stock + wire didn't reach my 2nd gen coil. I tried unwraping the tape to get a little extra distance only to discover that the wires are expose under the tape, i guess i'll have to make a jumper or find a new switched source...
06-13-05, 08:15 PM
#38
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: oregon
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
#1 goes to power (stock + terminal)
#2 goes to the 2nd gen coil + (under the L1 L2 cover)
#2 goes to the 2nd gen coil + (under the L1 L2 cover)
06-13-05, 09:22 PM
#39
Because, as I said before, yours is wired different then the ones that I have seen. If you look at the pic that I posted, you'll see that the black wire is connected to the ballast. In your case, the brown wire is connected to the ballast. So, it is like this:
for the 20 min install thread, the wiring is:
YG wire -> black wire-> ballast -> 2nd gen coil negative (under the L1 L2 cover)
power -> 2nd gen coil positive (under the L1 L2 cover)
your wiring will be like this:
power -> brown wire-> ballast -> 2nd gen coil positive (under the L1 L2 cover)
YG wire -> 2nd gen coil negative (under the L1 L2 cover)
The difference between the two is that yours will have the ballast connected to the positive side of the coil whereas the 20 min install has it connected to the negative side of the coil. It won't matter which side it is connected to, it just needs to be in the circuit.
I can try to draw up something if it would be more clear. But trust me, it'll work.
Kent
for the 20 min install thread, the wiring is:
YG wire -> black wire-> ballast -> 2nd gen coil negative (under the L1 L2 cover)
power -> 2nd gen coil positive (under the L1 L2 cover)
your wiring will be like this:
power -> brown wire-> ballast -> 2nd gen coil positive (under the L1 L2 cover)
YG wire -> 2nd gen coil negative (under the L1 L2 cover)
The difference between the two is that yours will have the ballast connected to the positive side of the coil whereas the 20 min install has it connected to the negative side of the coil. It won't matter which side it is connected to, it just needs to be in the circuit.
I can try to draw up something if it would be more clear. But trust me, it'll work.
Kent
06-13-05, 09:30 PM
#40
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: oregon
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok my cars been running with this setup and I have it all connected and it starts right up its just idling way low i think it could be the carburator when i first wired it i had the postive side underneath the l1l2 cover disconnected and it seemed that it ran the same as when i connected it why is that
06-13-05, 09:38 PM
#41
That is strange that it ran the same. So before nothing was connected to the coil + (under the cover)? If that was the case, the coil wouldn't be firing and that would explain the low idle and hesitation.
Did you see if you are getting spark? Take one of the leading coil wires off the spark plug and put the end near one of the bolts sticking up on the strut tower. Crank the engine and you should see sparks jumping from the wire to the car.
Did you see if you are getting spark? Take one of the leading coil wires off the spark plug and put the end near one of the bolts sticking up on the strut tower. Crank the engine and you should see sparks jumping from the wire to the car.
06-13-05, 10:20 PM
#45
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: oregon
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i had the low idle before the conversion i think the hesataion is caused by the really low idle cause when i pull the choke out and make it idle at like a 1000 and give it gas its very quick
06-13-05, 10:29 PM
#48
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SF CALI
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
?????So i can hook up the 2nd gen coils to my 1st gen igniter w/out the transistor trick? would the coil die sooner? Or the transistor trick is to give it a better Spark?
would i get a stronger spark then the 1st gen coil by doing this?
would i get a stronger spark then the 1st gen coil by doing this?
06-13-05, 10:34 PM
#49
TurboSE: You can connect the 1st gen ignitor to the 2nd gen coil, but in this case you remove the second gen ignitor. In this case you use the 2nd gen coil as a direct replacement for the 1st gen. You do gain the direct fire/late leading spark. However, the goal of the transistor trick is to use the 1st gen ignitor to fire the 2nd gen ignitor. The reason we are doing this is the 2nd gen ignitor produces a much stronger spark and will operate to a high rpm before starting to cut out.