vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

The pulleys aren't interchangeable? My 85 GS has a smaller shaft alternator and pulleys can't be swapped. Not sure what I should do now but I have a $180 GM alternator and noone in town carries pulleys. Arg!

Just FYI....

Kim's FB

Yeah, I noticed that also when I got mine. Nice part (for me atleast) is that the stock GM pulley is the exact same pulley as the supercharger pulley, so it was a direct bolt on.

What if you changed to a pulley that fits and get another belt? I'm sure a member here has a pulley that fits.

mr_ouija

I think I remember someone mentioning that they had to have their original alt pulley bored out to fit on their GM Alt, similar to doing the upgrade to an FD alt.

drunkclever

there you go.. just outline or mark whats bigger, than get yourself a dremal tool and sand it down... well its what I would do. I am happy with my S5 alt so its all good.

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

Went to a local alternator repair shop. 5 bucks for a 17mm V belt pulley.

Now I hooked it up wiring wise as shown and blew something? Car gets no power now. Main fuseable links are good all fuses in fuse panel are good??? What the hel could I have done?

I am getting power to the main fuse under the hood and at the alt charge term. No where else. Could I have fried a relay? I don't hear them clicking anymore? But I saw no smoke and didn't hear anything pop?


I attached a wiring diagram... Is there a fuseable link inline with the starter? Also The fuse I circled in yellow in teh diagram is that in the fuse block under the dash?

Also neeed to mention I didn't install the plastic washer mentioned on teh 105GM alt install. I checked for cont betweed the base post (main charging term) and ground and got no cont. I hooked up the White wire from the 2 wire plug on the fact alt to the blue wire on the GM alternator this should excite the alt only when IGN is on.

Any suggestions? I'm lost!

Thanks

mr_ouija

I'd make sure to check the main fusible link, I think they were rated around 45-60amp. Your GM alt is probably providing way more than that, and possible it fried that link. I haven't done the GM alt swap, so not a whole lot of help I can provide there. =/

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

Anyone? This is my daily driver and I'm stuck... Is there any other fuseable links? Or fuses? The main link and other 2 are fine and I have volts to them. It's like some main relay that powers up the fuse block is dead? Is there such a thing? ANd if so where is it?

Thanks

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Do your headlights work? Everything electrical is dead or just the starter? That fuse listed in the diagram should be the 20amp engine fuse located in the fuse box inside the car. There is no separate fusible link for the starter. When you check voltage at the fusible links, you need to check at both ends of the links. One side of the links will always be hot (as long is battery is connected). Are you using the stock output wire for the alt (white w/ red stripe)? Normally the car is wired like this:

..................../-------headlight link--->
battery----->/-------- main link------->--alt output, fuse box, main relay, etc.
..................../------ retractor link---->

Now, if it is wired like stock, if the alt output has power, the fuse box and such should have power as well. Even though this alt has a capacity higher than the stock alt, you are probably okay with the stock link. The reason is that the alt only put out the current needed. With the car running, even if you had a huge stero and such and the alt was pushing say 65amp, the link would still be okay because the alt is connected to the output of the link (the current goes directly from the alt to the stereo, etc.). The only current that goes through the link is that used to charge the battery, the healights, retractors, and any device that is connected to the battery directly (e-fan or similar).

Hope this helps.

Kent

Kylv

Well since my alt died I figured this would be a good time to do this upgrade, sound simple enough ONCE YOU GET THE PULLEYS OFF!! IS there some special trick to it? or did someone know I was going to try this and welded them on? I tried wd-40 and as much elbow grease as my brother and I can gather at any given time, and I cant get either of them off. Anyone got any suggestions?

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

You have to use an impact gun... Go buy a cheap electric one at harbor freight, or go to any local pepboys or auto shop and have tehm take it off for you...

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

Well after all that drama it ended up being the main relay/Sol. I think. I removed and reseated the relay and all of a sudden everything worked? Might have jarred a wire too. Anyway if it comes back I'll let U all know thanks for the help.

And heres how my GM alt swap turned out. Ground the ear down 1/4 inch or so. Installed new V-belt pulley. Ran the brown wire going to the factory Mazda alt to the green field wire of the GM alt. Then ran a new larger charge line in addition to the orig line to the alt charge post.

Ending result... Exactly what I wanted. I did opt for the retard huge 140amp alt. And of course I get almost no voltage drop.

This is over kill in most cases but I have a huge stereo, electric fan (On high speed, fan draws almost 50amps!) So at night cruises with all my head lights, 2 sets of fog lights, stereo, AC, electric fan and maybe wipers on...

I believe it is necessary in my case. And I am willing to take the HP loss. I've got my 86 Mazda for racing

Heres a few pics of this beast of an Alt.

Thanks everyone!









Heres a pic of the old one... it looks tiny!

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Damn that's fuggin huge! I don't think it would even fit with my alternator relocation kit.

dayton

glad too see that it works...