Im thinkin about street porting, have questions
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Originally Posted by Rob Stolz
1. A carb, not sure what kind but I want one where I can change the jets for more power back to better economy, One that can handle a fairly aggressive streetport if I decided to go aggressive, also a fuel pump, not sure what kind, and fuel regulator I believe you need as well.
Forget this Rob.
As I mentioned before, there's more than just jets to a carburetor. "Jetting" for economy vs. power doesn't make any sense.
The best thing to do is get two carbs that you can swap for economy vs. performance.
Ideally you're jetting for an air-fuel ratio of about 14.7:1 for as much of the powerband as you can. This isn't "gas mileage" or "power", this is just the ratio at which gas and air should mix to burn efficiently. The things they change in the carb affect how much air can flow through the carb, and how efficiently it manages that mixture.
When they upgrade the carbs, they actually press the venturis out, put them on a lathe or mill and they change the entrance/exit angles and internal diameter. You can't casually change that. There are a ton of things like this that are done to the carb that can't easily be changed back for better gas mileage.
Honestly, get a Sterling, and get a spare nikki for times when you really need the gas mileage (like road trips).
Jon
Last edited by vipernicus42; May 29, 2006 at 02:49 PM.
i didnt think the stearling affected gas milage that bad
ild leave porting to the very last thing
make decitions read alot on what people have expereced there setups for there style pm them all and see what they did experices mistakes pros cons
i started off thinking the same you did finally after 3 months of reading talkin ****,askin people quesions
i started with rebuilding exsiting nikki stripped it to bare needs made it secondarys moddefyed the manifold
iv tryed variations of ignition,upgraded fuel system
replaced alot old worn stuff
what you need to do is start with basic items while you do basic components you can set it up towards street port but make it work for stock since you stated you want to do this over a few years break ya list up into smaller items viper has explained a few important factors
ild listen to his recomendations and make ya own decitions
wanting to drift on occasions well thats a whole nuther section of the car
ecomeny vs power just dosnt really mix to well
oh **** gota go
ild leave porting to the very last thing
make decitions read alot on what people have expereced there setups for there style pm them all and see what they did experices mistakes pros cons
i started off thinking the same you did finally after 3 months of reading talkin ****,askin people quesions
i started with rebuilding exsiting nikki stripped it to bare needs made it secondarys moddefyed the manifold
iv tryed variations of ignition,upgraded fuel system
replaced alot old worn stuff
what you need to do is start with basic items while you do basic components you can set it up towards street port but make it work for stock since you stated you want to do this over a few years break ya list up into smaller items viper has explained a few important factors
ild listen to his recomendations and make ya own decitions
wanting to drift on occasions well thats a whole nuther section of the car
ecomeny vs power just dosnt really mix to well
oh **** gota go
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Found a little tidbit of info you might like reading:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio
The idea of the air/fuel ratio is that at the ideal ratio every molecule of fuel is matched to a molecule of oxygen from the air.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio
The idea of the air/fuel ratio is that at the ideal ratio every molecule of fuel is matched to a molecule of oxygen from the air.
Is sterling the best way to go?? Also, If I wanted to go sterling doesnt that mean I would need to send my carb in to get upgraded or is it a whole knew carb. What do I need to do to prep for a sterling and is there a different carb out there that would be better to get??
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Yes the Sterling is a rebuilt stock carb. But it's rebuilt so damned well that you'd think it was brand spanking new. Sandblasted and powdercoated, all the useless stuff has been removed, and not a single square milimetre of the carburetor is left untouched.
You can either send yours down, or you can pick up another one either on the forum or from a junkyard (make sure it's in good condition, the core has to be good if you want a good carb back!).
As for the question "is there a different carb that would be better", that depends. You still haven't told us what you're doing with the car. If it's a track racer and is going to spend the majority of it's life around one specific RPM, then there are other carbs designed for that. THIS carburetor is imho the best performance carburetor for our cars because the nature of the 4 barrel allows you to tune two "perfect" spots in the powerband and transition them together. The carb lends itself well to a car which is both daily driven and called upon for performance.
Go read any thread Sterling contributed to in the Archive and you'll get an idea why those carbs rock.
Jon
You can either send yours down, or you can pick up another one either on the forum or from a junkyard (make sure it's in good condition, the core has to be good if you want a good carb back!).
As for the question "is there a different carb that would be better", that depends. You still haven't told us what you're doing with the car. If it's a track racer and is going to spend the majority of it's life around one specific RPM, then there are other carbs designed for that. THIS carburetor is imho the best performance carburetor for our cars because the nature of the 4 barrel allows you to tune two "perfect" spots in the powerband and transition them together. The carb lends itself well to a car which is both daily driven and called upon for performance.
Go read any thread Sterling contributed to in the Archive and you'll get an idea why those carbs rock.
Jon
Find yourself a "junk" carb (one in need of a rebuild), which can be found pretty cheaply. Then send that one to Sterling while you continue to use your current carb. You won't go wrong with a Sterling carb, they're beautiful. When you get your Sterling back, then you'll still have your stock carb you can swap on if you want better gas mileage. This is how I'm set up, but so far I haven't been able to bring myself to take the Sterling off my car.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
If you trim down the stock one and remove your rat's nest, you can swap carbs in a matter of minutes.
The Sterling I have comes off as such:
- Remove airbox (which has no attachments to anything rat's nest related, so that involves removing a single wingnut)
- Remove fuel send/return lines
- Remove OMP lines (they pull right off and hang there)
- Remove OMP rod cotter pin and pop the rod out of it's spot
- Remove the 4 bolts holding the carb in place
- Tilt the carb to remove the throttle and choke linkages
Bing! Done. Total time: 5 mins if I'm being slow and lazy.
My stock carb was the same after I stripped the unnecessary crap off of it, except it had one little electrical connection for the plunger on the driver's side of the carb. Other than that same procedure. And, as always, "installation is the reverse of removal".
My biggest advice is to send Carl a 12mm wrench and get him to heat/bend it for you. That makes removing the carb bolts much easier.
So yeah, it's nothing to have a spare "stock" carb lying around to swap in for road trips, or if I think that I won't need my Sterling... except like Kentetsu I haven't managed to convince myself of any such thing. I know I *could* do it if I had do, but other than long-*** road trips (like the 18hr drive to Nova Scotia, that's a lot of gas) I wouldn't switch it for anything.
Jon
The Sterling I have comes off as such:
- Remove airbox (which has no attachments to anything rat's nest related, so that involves removing a single wingnut)
- Remove fuel send/return lines
- Remove OMP lines (they pull right off and hang there)
- Remove OMP rod cotter pin and pop the rod out of it's spot
- Remove the 4 bolts holding the carb in place
- Tilt the carb to remove the throttle and choke linkages
Bing! Done. Total time: 5 mins if I'm being slow and lazy.
My stock carb was the same after I stripped the unnecessary crap off of it, except it had one little electrical connection for the plunger on the driver's side of the carb. Other than that same procedure. And, as always, "installation is the reverse of removal".
My biggest advice is to send Carl a 12mm wrench and get him to heat/bend it for you. That makes removing the carb bolts much easier.
So yeah, it's nothing to have a spare "stock" carb lying around to swap in for road trips, or if I think that I won't need my Sterling... except like Kentetsu I haven't managed to convince myself of any such thing. I know I *could* do it if I had do, but other than long-*** road trips (like the 18hr drive to Nova Scotia, that's a lot of gas) I wouldn't switch it for anything.
Jon
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
And of course, for the benefit of those who haven't managed to dig up threads where I posted this before:
Things you can remove from your stock Nikki without much trouble:
- Entire choke assembly, except the fast-idle rod
- Throttle opener for A/C (yes, all the non-AC equipped cars have this on their carb for some reason)
- Dashpot
- Anti-Afterburn Valve
- Throttle Position Sensor
And the hot start assist. While this isn't technically *on* the carb, not having one doesn't impede the functioning of your car in any way, but sure makes it a helluva lot easier to remove the carb.
Jon
Things you can remove from your stock Nikki without much trouble:
- Entire choke assembly, except the fast-idle rod
- Throttle opener for A/C (yes, all the non-AC equipped cars have this on their carb for some reason)
- Dashpot
- Anti-Afterburn Valve
- Throttle Position Sensor
And the hot start assist. While this isn't technically *on* the carb, not having one doesn't impede the functioning of your car in any way, but sure makes it a helluva lot easier to remove the carb.
Jon




