RX_Speed_7

nice to see another FB on the road. its looking really good. congrats

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!

I got the new drivers fender bolted on with the trim and pin striping removed then I buffed it up. It came out good. Its nice to have a body with almost all matching colors aside from a few spots that are touched up with a rattle can to stop some rust. I also swapped out the front bumper beam since mine was tweaked, and the bumper cover wasnt sitting correctly. Its basically all lining up now. I didnt get any pictures of it since it was dark, but its looking good.

As for the rest of the car, I got the metal battery hold down with new J bolts in finally, and picked up the last ground cable I need which I will install soon.

My list at this point is as follows:

Make additional alternator charging wire
Make new engine wiring harness (to eliminate rats nest/unused plugs)
Install fender braces
Install inner fender plastics
Install lower valance
Install front grill
Swap out passenger tail light
Remove rust and paint storage bin frames
Install storage bin frames and bins
Install rear hatch trim pieces
Install missing dash piece
Fix HVAC duct
Clean up cut wires behind stereo area
Install the last ground cable
Heat shrink one power cable
Clean up and paint hood prop rod

Other than those little misc things, Im basically done with her until I start upgrading. Wheels, tires, suspension, brakes, etc

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ok, finally got around to tinkering with this thing again today.

First, I whipped up a new charging wire to run from the alternator to the fusible link block (which also feeds straight to the battery) and got that installed. Also installed a new boot for the terminal at the alternator on the cable to keep some weather out.







Then I wire wheeled the storage bin frames to get the years of rust off them, got them painted up with some rust block paint, and reinstalled them. Got the rear hatch carpet in, storage bins in, etc. Picked up some new screws to finish the interior and such, and got that all done. Its not "done", but its all installed for now.









Then I spent a little time putting the lower valance and front grill on. Again, not "permanent" but its on there for now. I need to fab up some new front fender support brackets before I can permanently install it all, then I can install the inner fender covers also in the wheel wells.



So, here are a couple "overall" shots now that I have a complete bumper up front, fixed tail light in the rear, new fender on the drivers side, etc. Still not a show car, but as I said, plenty good for a summer fun car, and it still gets a lot of looks when Im out driving it around







The list is getting much shorter, but theres still a lot left to do. My list at this point is as follows:

Make new engine wiring harness (to eliminate rats nest/unused plugs)
Fab and install fender braces
Install inner fender plastics
Color match rear hatch trim pieces
Fix HVAC duct
Clean up cut wires behind stereo area
Install stereo
Install speakers
Heat shrink one power cable
Clean up and paint hood prop rod
Fuel pump relay fuse holder
Fuel pump relay electrical connector
Repair/replace heater core
Find washers for the bolts holding the hood on
Make new PCV valve hoses

Plus whatever else Im forgetting. All in all, not too bad!

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Didnt do much today. I wanted to do more, but I wasnt feeling well. All I really managed to do was tidy up a few things, and I finally got the new modern fusible links installed rather than the old school wire links. I think things are working a little better. That wire was pretty corroded and stiff, either from age, or amperage draw problems down the line. Either way, I think these will flow the power better and is probably why Im seeing very little fluctuation on my volt gauge now. Before it would drop over a volt and bounce in unison with the turn signal

~T.J.

Before with the old wire type links:



After with the new links:

ricerockettuner

where did u get that fuse block? my voltage varys just like u say urs was and i wouldnt mind swapping over to that setup

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Its the stock fuse box, just with new modern style fusible links in it. You can get them at any auto parts store. Two 20s and a 45 are stock on a 12A car typically (brown links are 20 amps, black are 45 amps)

They didn't have 45s, so I grabbed a 60 (I also plan to get a larger alternator), and they were out of 20s, so I ended up with two 30s. They will still blow if theres a major short or problem just as easy, but they add a little buffer for the degradation of corrosion adding to the circuit resistance, I feel fine running them.

In other words, the circuit had a 20 amp fuse. Lets say that with everything turned on, the circuit drew 18.5 amps. Obviously thats a good fuse size choice. Well, over time corrosion and resistance will form, which increases amperage draw. Now you have say 1.5 amps of excess draw due to resistance in the old wiring, now youre at just about 20 amps. That fusible link is going to be teetering on the edge of blowing (which is why they can get hot, stiff, crumbly, etc). Not to mention the wire the link itself is made out of getting old and corroded at its connections. By putting a 30 amp in there, you add that buffer for the older wiring and circuit resistance, but it will still blow if there is a failure down the line.

At least, thats how I see it in my head

~T.J.

EDIT: They sell for about $3 each. Theyre called PAL female terminal fuses. Watch out though because there are also "mini PAL" female terminal fuses that wont fit. Keep in mind that my car also has all new power and ground cables everywhere, this was the very last change I made. YMMV when doing this.

Heres the 30 amp Im using:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...336_0282465343

Heres the 60 amp Im using:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...338_0282465350

Heres the MINI PAL that you DONT want to get:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...044_0006409350

pjr

iTrader: (8)

Hey man... any updates to the ride?

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

No, not really. I kind of ran out of money, and Im looking for a job. I take it out for a spin every now and then, its running pretty darn good. I cant remember if I posted, but I swapped a few jets around and got it running better, but it still needs to actually be tuned.

My plans at this point are to get a wide band O2 setup for it so I can tune it, new 15" wheels and tires, along with the body work and paint eventually, and finally suspension. I also need to tie up some minor loose ends (posted in that list above). It will be a slow process from here on out really as I get time and money.

Thanks for the interest though!

~T.J.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Love love love formula white.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Back from the dead! Here is the latest update, copied and pasted from another forum Im on. Unfortunately its a step backwards, and kind of scary if it had caused a fire or something

~T.J.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

wow! that is trippy!

i don't think you can go wrong with the Carter pump. mine worked flawlessly for over 6 years and i'm fairly confident that when i need to use it again, it will do it's job. i've heard stories of Holley pumps self-destructing, but this is the first time i've seen details. funnily enough, my brother runs a Holley pump and has had it even longer than i've had my Carter.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Picked up a Carter 4070 from a local Napa today, $80 and in stock on the shelf. Great deal since Summit is $75 plus shipping. Its in a Napa box, but the pump says Carter right on it and the box and included parts are all the same as the Carter.

Got it installed tonight and started fooling around with getting the car running again. It runs and I drove it, but the carb needs to be looked over and had to be readjusted all over again with the new found fuel supply. I also have a sticking brake caliper I need to deal with, but at least its running again.

~T.J.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

hey RotorMotorDriver,
just a quick (probably weird) question: where did you buy the studs you have on your intake manifold? i've been having the damndest time finding studs at the hardware stores around me and i need some for my exhaust.

thanks.


EDIT:
actually, i just noticed that one looks like a genuine stud and one looks like a bolt with the head chopped off.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Those are bolts, threaded in from below. I'd use shorter ones personally.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

a-ha, gotcha. i guess i'll continue searching for studs then.

RXDad

iTrader: (2)

Carb Studs:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...%20studs&dds=1

RXDad

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

It might be better to use bolts. How else will the throttle bracket bolt to the manifold?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

RXDad, thank you for trying to help out. i really appreciate it. unfortunately, it's not intake studs that i need, it's exhaust studs. i'm fairly bolt/stud-illiterate, but from what i gathered on the exhaust studs, they are 10mm X 1.5mm and 55mm in length and made of Inconel. now, i assume i won't find Inconel and i accept that, but i've been trying to find a suitable substitute locally since i'm physically there to test the exhaust bolts on it. i did find some possibilities HERE, but obviously i'm a bit unsure of myself.

basically what happened this morning was that i woke up, and as it sometimes happens when i have something on my mind, my brain starts flashing possible solutions to me just after i get up. this morning, it was my memories of the photos of RMD's intake - i know, i'm pretty pathetic and have no life - but for some reason i remembered seeing what i thought were studs and since i couldn't find them in the past week or so since i built my latest engine, i decided to ask him where he got his in an attempt to source some.

for the sake of not cluttering TJ's thread with my issue, if you or anyone else have better ideas, just send me a PM. i think i've taken up enough space in his thread on this. thanks.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

diabolocal1, this might sound like a crazy idea (haha), but have you tried an auto parts store? I know my local Napa has bins with exhaust studs and such hardware in them. Also, in the "Help" brand parts section most places have, they have some stuff that might help.

Anyway, here are a few part numbers I found real fast you can try based on the dimensions you gave me. Im sure there are more, but this was quick as I said:

Dorman "Help" P/N 03104, which cross-references to Napa P/N BK6001813: Exhaust stud kit (Size: M10-1.5 x 52mm, 2 studs 2 nuts)

Dorman "Help" P/N 03124, which cross-references to Napa P/N BK6001819: Exhaust stud kit (Size: M10-1.5 x 62mm, 2 studs 2 nuts)

Dorman "Help" P/N 03102, which cross-references to Napa P/N BK6001812: Exhaust stud kit (Size: M10-1.5 x 65mm, 2 studs 2 nuts)

You just need to make sure that the shoulder (un-threaded portion) isnt too long. If it is, the nut will bottom out on the threads before it tightens the manifold down.

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

They were in there when I bought it, and I didnt have anything on hand to swap them out with. I agree 100% they are way too long, but all I have at the shop is metric hardware so I rolled with it. Didn't seem worth it to go through the effort of going all the way to the store just for some bolts, nor cutting them off.

~T.J.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

RotorMotorDriver, thanks. it's almost shameful, but i have such little faith and regard for auto parts stores when it comes to parts like this that i deliberately side-stepped them for hardware stores. thanks for the lead. the joke may be on me this time because if i find them at one, i'm going to feel like a REAL jerk! i will try to locate a NAPA near me. thanks again.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Just for reference, here is the Carter fuel pump available locally at Napa, P/N P4070. I was pretty happy to find this, no waiting for shipping from Summit Racing or similar, especially since it was only $5 more than Summits price. Obviously I had to pay tax, but I would have had to pay shipping at Summit. All works out in the end.







So, just a heads up if you guys want a Carter fuel pump and dont want to wait for the shipping!

I should note that another local auto parts store that has "performance" parts had the "genuine" Carter 4070 pump in the Carter box for $125, and a hot rod shop had one for $115...

~T.J.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Hey no problem. I know how that is for sure. As the cars we enjoy get older and more out of date, less and less people deal with parts for them regularly. Therefore if they cant find it in a book, they dont know what to do. Those part numbers were listed for Toyotas, Nissans, etc. Not a single Mazda that I saw, yet obviously they could work just fine. You just need to think a little outside the box sometimes to find what you're looking for. Good luck in your search!

~T.J.

purple82

Awesome job! All the moss on the car when you first pulled it out makes me laugh. It grows on anything that sits for more than about 10 minutes out here.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

IM back now too Took me 2 1/2 years but I found an absolutely rust free FC vert. 1990 model...

Finding a RUST FREE FB that isnt a totally stripped car is REAL hard to find. Love the ones listed to be rust free and 2 looks and its got the same O same O.